Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Bosch 009 Pertronix tuning, Looking for advice to get the car running again
Chaznaster
post May 17 2021, 05:33 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 288
Joined: 22-November 15
From: Concord, MA
Member No.: 19,389
Region Association: North East States



Hi All. I was working towards getting on the road formally this spring and seem to have caused a problem while digging around the engine bay.
It's a 74 1.8 with a single Weber progressive and an 009 distributor (I know nobody likes that setup ...) and Pertronix Ignitor. We have had it running (adjusted valves and timed it) and even put a few miles on it over the last few weeks.
Today, out of interest and while trying to find out my Pertronix model number, I took the cap off the dizzy, pulled the rotor and magnetic sleeve and took out the Pertronix. There was no part number (ugh).
I put it all back together (it has been running, albeit not well).
When starting, I got a bright flash above the engine (!) and the car tried to run but it will not idle and backfires like crazy. So much so that I am not comfortable trying to start it again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
I did check all the wires and plugs and all seems OK.
I think the Pertronix is still working (it does fire). Could removing and replacing that part mess with timing or hurt the unit itself? I cannot see why but it is running like the timing is waaayyyy off.
Does anyone here have any ideas on what I might have done to cause it to not run well. How about ideas of what I might do to get back on track?
My only thought is to go back to points, static time it to start and go from there ...
I really appreciate the help!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
bbrock
post May 17 2021, 05:42 PM
Post #2


914 Guru
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,269
Joined: 17-February 17
From: Montana
Member No.: 20,845
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



Since it has a magnetic sleeve, that narrows it down to an Ignitor I or Ignitor II since the III doesn't have that sleeve. That also means the air gap needs to be set. Here is the installation instructions of an Ignitor II. Probably the same for a I but I'm not sure.
https://images.carid.com/pertronix/products...nstructions.pdf
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Shivers
post May 17 2021, 05:44 PM
Post #3


Senior Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,323
Joined: 19-October 20
From: La Quinta, CA
Member No.: 24,781
Region Association: Southern California



Timing is out. If you did not loosen the dizzy clamp and rotate, then the pieces you pulled out did not go back in the same way. The flash was your engine trying to run backwards. Try rotating the distributor and see if you can get it to clear up. If so put the pieces back in the way they belong.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
nditiz1
post May 17 2021, 06:03 PM
Post #4


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,177
Joined: 26-May 15
From: Mount Airy, Maryland
Member No.: 18,763
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



I just had my first run in with faulty pertronix svda. I had been neglecting my silver 60 beetle. I decided to put fresh rubber and get it back to decent driving condition. Cleaned out the 34 pict 3. Couldn't get it running right. Swapped out the carb, still not right. Finally started messing with pulling the plugs and one was not firing. I even swapped wires l, nope. Swapped it out for my old known working 009 and she was running on all 4. This one is only 6 Mo old and has never really been run. I was pretty amazed. Sending it out to pertronix to be fixed.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
IronHillRestorations
post May 17 2021, 07:43 PM
Post #5


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,712
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



Is it possible you connected the coil wrong? You can bench test it.

The flash means you fried something.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
brant
post May 18 2021, 09:58 AM
Post #6


914 Wizard
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 11,603
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Colorado
Member No.: 47
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



reset the gap inside the distributor with the pertronix

similar to resetting the points if you had pulled a set out and reinstalled....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chaznaster
post May 18 2021, 10:00 AM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 288
Joined: 22-November 15
From: Concord, MA
Member No.: 19,389
Region Association: North East States



Thanks All ...
This is turning out to be a big egg-on-the face moment.
I went back in to look around and it looks like I did not tighten down the dizzy after timing it on Sunday. The engine most definitely turned it clockwise (right?).
So when I replied the dizzy parts and restarted, the timing was waaaaay off.
So I have a few thoughts:
1) definitely static time to get close before starting again.
2) I get that the flash was something frying (electrical flash - bright white) but without FI, there is not much there to fry. The board in the engine compartment looks OK and I cannot see damage around the coil or ignitor. There are no melted wires I can see. Fuses are OK.And it does try to start.
3) is there any chance I damaged anything internal to the engine?
Fortunately, I have a new coil and plug wires coming as the old ones were due for replacement.
I appreciate any additional help on this!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chaznaster
post May 18 2021, 10:38 AM
Post #8


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 288
Joined: 22-November 15
From: Concord, MA
Member No.: 19,389
Region Association: North East States



QUOTE(brant @ May 18 2021, 11:58 AM) *

reset the gap inside the distributor with the pertronix

similar to resetting the points if you had pulled a set out and reinstalled....


I looked into that. The igniter I have does not have an adjustable gap. It locks down with a screw and pin that fits in the base. And the igniter base plate goes completely around the shaft.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chaznaster
post May 18 2021, 01:48 PM
Post #9


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 288
Joined: 22-November 15
From: Concord, MA
Member No.: 19,389
Region Association: North East States



QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ May 17 2021, 09:43 PM) *

Is it possible you connected the coil wrong? You can bench test it.

The flash means you fried something.


Thank you.

I'll bench test tonight.

Fried sounds bad. And thoughts on what it could have been?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
porschetub
post May 18 2021, 01:55 PM
Post #10


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,696
Joined: 25-July 15
From: New Zealand
Member No.: 18,995
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Chaznaster @ May 19 2021, 04:38 AM) *

QUOTE(brant @ May 18 2021, 11:58 AM) *

reset the gap inside the distributor with the pertronix

similar to resetting the points if you had pulled a set out and reinstalled....


I looked into that. The igniter I have does not have an adjustable gap. It locks down with a screw and pin that fits in the base. And the igniter base plate goes completely around the shaft.

Ignitor II comes with a gap setting tool from memory,been a while since I fitted one.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Chaznaster
post Jun 13 2021, 04:52 PM
Post #11


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 288
Joined: 22-November 15
From: Concord, MA
Member No.: 19,389
Region Association: North East States



So it took a while but I finally figured out that two things had happed to cause the non-starting.
1) did not tighten the distributor after timing so it turned itself out
2) when fiddling with the Pertronix, one of the magnets from the "doughnut" on the dizzy shaft popped out (the piece separated).

So found the missing magnet and got that squared away and re-timed and things sound pretty good.

FYI the Pertonix is a Ignitor I (1?). The config for the 009 distributor has a fixed sensor so no adjustments possible or necessary.

Thanks for the help on this.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 17th April 2024 - 08:56 PM