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> Mystery connection, don't know what plugs into this, have a look
emerygt350
post Mar 3 2022, 03:43 PM
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I believe yellow are 1.7 injectors. Not sure how changeable the heads are but I would be careful until you know what is on what with this thing. If you ran a 1900 engine with 1700 injectors it's going to be very lean.
If you are getting pressure in the rail I would look to the injectors and dizzy first.

You can turn it over with an injector out to check if they are firing, just put it in a can with a paper towel etc.

It is possible they are all gummed up and not firing. Just don't light the car on fire trying. The injectors are cheap so just getting a new ones isn't a terrible idea if you think they might be gummed up. Not sure if I would buy a full set till I knew what I had underneath. Does anyone ever put 1.7 heads on a 2.0?


Pulling the distributor is easy, I would do it, and clean the advance/retard plate and clean up the trigger points/ check their condition. ECU rarely goes on these cars.

something else to think about is the pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is low.
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jackspratt
post Mar 4 2022, 10:57 PM
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QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Mar 3 2022, 01:43 PM) *

I believe yellow are 1.7 injectors. Not sure how changeable the heads are but I would be careful until you know what is on what with this thing. If you ran a 1900 engine with 1700 injectors it's going to be very lean.
If you are getting pressure in the rail I would look to the injectors and dizzy first.

You can turn it over with an injector out to check if they are firing, just put it in a can with a paper towel etc.

It is possible they are all gummed up and not firing. Just don't light the car on fire trying. The injectors are cheap so just getting a new ones isn't a terrible idea if you think they might be gummed up. Not sure if I would buy a full set till I knew what I had underneath. Does anyone ever put 1.7 heads on a 2.0?


Pulling the distributor is easy, I would do it, and clean the advance/retard plate and clean up the trigger points/ check their condition. ECU rarely goes on these cars.

something else to think about is the pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is low.

Well, one side of the fuel regulator has gas but the outlet side to drivers side rails is bone dry. New regulator needed? And I think this whole thing is a 1.7 most likely.
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Dustin
post Mar 4 2022, 11:05 PM
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The regulator goes between driver side rail and the return line. Pressure builds behind the regulator then excess fuel goes back to the tank. If it's between the two rails it's plumbed incorrectly.
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JamesM
post Mar 4 2022, 11:05 PM
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QUOTE(jackspratt @ Mar 4 2022, 09:57 PM) *

QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Mar 3 2022, 01:43 PM) *

I believe yellow are 1.7 injectors. Not sure how changeable the heads are but I would be careful until you know what is on what with this thing. If you ran a 1900 engine with 1700 injectors it's going to be very lean.
If you are getting pressure in the rail I would look to the injectors and dizzy first.

You can turn it over with an injector out to check if they are firing, just put it in a can with a paper towel etc.

It is possible they are all gummed up and not firing. Just don't light the car on fire trying. The injectors are cheap so just getting a new ones isn't a terrible idea if you think they might be gummed up. Not sure if I would buy a full set till I knew what I had underneath. Does anyone ever put 1.7 heads on a 2.0?


Pulling the distributor is easy, I would do it, and clean the advance/retard plate and clean up the trigger points/ check their condition. ECU rarely goes on these cars.

something else to think about is the pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is low.

Well, one side of the fuel regulator has gas but the outlet side to drivers side rails is bone dry. New regulator needed? And I think this whole thing is a 1.7 most likely.


Check your other thread, pretty sure you are not plumbed correctly. The regulator goes AFTER the fuel rails, not before. Pump feeds the passenger side rail, over to the driver side rail, into the side port of the regulator and then back to the return line.
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Dustin
post Mar 4 2022, 11:08 PM
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Pump feeds the passenger side rail. Then the driver side rail. Then the fuel pressure regulator. Then the return line.
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jackspratt
post Mar 5 2022, 09:20 PM
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Ok, so after looking at Bowsley diagram. The pressure hose from the pump is feeding up and through the fuel rails on the passenger side then over through a hose to the drivers side, then through drivers rails to a pressure regulator trunk end and out the other end of the regulator and hoses back to the battery passenger side and down to the return inlet of the fuel pump...... Sound right? If yes, then I'm not getting fuel pressure up and through the rails all the way to the other side to the inlet regulator. It seems. The outlet side of the regulator I took off the hose and there was gas, but that was between the outlet regulator and inlet back to the fuel pump. So now I'm thinking maybe I should disconnect the hose at the Pressure out of the pump and see if we're pumping gas....And I'm going to take off the passenger side rail hose to see if there is gas there first, if not then we ain't getting pressure right from the start.....I'm thinking LOL
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JeffBowlsby
post Mar 5 2022, 11:11 PM
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The safe way to test for fuel pressure in the fuel ring, is to use a fuel pressure gauge inserted into the fuel ring somewhere. It’s a closed system so if you have pressure you’ll know it quickly….or not. If not either your pump is faulty or there is a kink or blockage in the supply line. A good place to tap in is to use the cold start valve branch. A FP gauge is a basic tool for anyone working on a fuel injected engine like ours.
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emerygt350
post Mar 6 2022, 07:59 AM
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I have used that branch as well for fuel pressure on the driver side. Make absolutely certain you have the pressure line from the pump going to the right place. I could imagine someone screwing that up.
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jackspratt
post Mar 8 2022, 11:30 AM
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QUOTE(JamesM @ Mar 1 2022, 11:43 AM) *

QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Mar 1 2022, 11:30 AM) *

QUOTE(JamesM @ Mar 1 2022, 01:05 PM) *

QUOTE(jackspratt @ Feb 27 2022, 09:58 PM) *


The engine code is GA000744 And have no idea if original or not but looks like it was never out of the car. What do you think and much thanks for solving this. I just got this project that was left around for years. I'm still trying to figure out the vacuum hoses which this 1973 seems to have 1/2 73 and 1/2 74? setup. It has a round air filter. Do you have any idea what this other mystery plug is for? no idea on that one either. Talking about the last picture, the one coming off of the thick ones


You have a 2.0 engine case and 1.7 heads and injection system.

I think all bets are off as far as originality.


We haven't seen the heads yet... It could be quite a frankenstien. Or simply a strange mix of djet components.

From the pics it looks like you need some help routing the crankcase ventilation as well...

Get us those pictures of the heads and engine!


You can see the spark plug angle in the pic, they are not 2.0 914 heads. Leaves a lot of questions as to what the bottom end is made up of.

Where can I find out what heads I have? Where is that located. Where to look? I thought in the beginning when I got this that it was a 1.7 because of the round air filter. And the angle of the plugs. So, heres a stupid question. Is it OK to have a 2.0 block with 1.7 heads and D-jet. I'm pretty sure now this is what we have from the PO.
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emerygt350
post Mar 8 2022, 02:32 PM
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Yeah, the plug angle tells you and the number of studs on the intake ports. 3 studs per side is a 2.0. If the plugs are pointing up like yours it's a 1.7 and will have 4 studs for the intake runner.

As long as it is all 1.7 bore and stroke you should be fine. How to determine that is not as easy. If you do have a 2.0 bottom (case and crank) that is good news. They are both better built than the 1.7. I am not at all sure how you could easily determine the bore and stroke with the engine in the car. Perhaps others here have better info on that. I am not even certain you could slap 1.7 heads on a 2.0 . 2.0 heads are notorious for dropping valves/cracking near the plug etc etc so it wouldn't at all surprise me for someone to do it if it is possible. Problem is the valves on a 1.7 are much smaller than the 2.0 and they just can't breath like a 2.0. If you are serious about getting this thing going I think it is safe to get it running as is but just don't drive it too much and keep an eye on the temps until you are certain what you have. After you get it going I would suggest a cylinder head temp gauge and an air fuel ratio gauge, but that's not worth it until you have it going.
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jackspratt
post Mar 9 2022, 11:14 AM
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When I look underneath at the heads, they seem pretty clean. So who knows? Good question, can you put 1.7 heads on a 2.0 case? Are you saying 2.0 heads are notorious for dropping valves/cracks or 1.7 heads?

Thanks for the gauges advice.
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brant
post Mar 9 2022, 11:23 AM
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the wrist pin height is different at the pistons for a 1.7 and 2.0
so the motor (any motor) would have to have pistons to match the crank and rods...
or things wont fit....


you can change heads with a little machine work between motors

most likely you have all 1.7 parts in a 2.0 case.
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JamesM
post Mar 9 2022, 11:58 AM
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QUOTE(brant @ Mar 9 2022, 10:23 AM) *

the wrist pin height is different at the pistons for a 1.7 and 2.0
so the motor (any motor) would have to have pistons to match the crank and rods...
or things wont fit....


you can change heads with a little machine work between motors

most likely you have all 1.7 parts in a 2.0 case.


That would be my bet as well.

I suppose its possible the whole bottom end could be 2.0 BUT 1.7 heads won't fit 2.0 cylinders without modifications, and seems unlikely someone would have thrown 1.8 heads on a 2.0 bottom end with 1.7 injection. but i suppose anything is possible. Only way to really know whats in there is to take one of the heads off but given the 1.7 heads and injection I would probably just assume its all 1.7 internals.
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brant
post Mar 9 2022, 02:00 PM
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QUOTE(JamesM @ Mar 9 2022, 10:58 AM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Mar 9 2022, 10:23 AM) *

the wrist pin height is different at the pistons for a 1.7 and 2.0
so the motor (any motor) would have to have pistons to match the crank and rods...
or things wont fit....


you can change heads with a little machine work between motors

most likely you have all 1.7 parts in a 2.0 case.


That would be my bet as well.

I suppose its possible the whole bottom end could be 2.0 BUT 1.7 heads won't fit 2.0 cylinders without modifications, and seems unlikely someone would have thrown 1.8 heads on a 2.0 bottom end with 1.7 injection. but i suppose anything is possible. Only way to really know whats in there is to take one of the heads off but given the 1.7 heads and injection I would probably just assume its all 1.7 internals.


I agree with you.
I'd not take the head off either...
I might throw an AFR on it to verify mixture.
and that most likely will confirm it has 1.7 internals too.
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emerygt350
post Mar 9 2022, 03:26 PM
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Yeah, everything points to that. The 2.0 heads are the fragile flowers.

Get it going, then double check your air fuel ratio. Waiting on plugs to tell you might be too late if it is super lean. Again I really doubt it from what the others have said. Just something to keep in mind.
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