Heat and BANG, How did that happen?!?!?!?!?!?! Options

[ctc911ctc]

'74 914, all stock, near all original, 22k

As we all know getting the brake hose disconnected from the hard line can be a pistol on older cars,

Heat always works, while doing the front end of the 914 (shocks and bushings) I am replacing the hoses - of course\

I needed to heat and started to torch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif) this connector when BANG!

Turns out there was a very tight fit between the hose and connector, enough to hold pressure to an explosion point.

Who Knew!?! Fortunately, I was wearing goggles.

No, there were no blocks within the hose, this was not from what was IN the hose but between the hose and the connector.

[Van B]

My rubber brake lines are self lubricating so I don’t imagine I’ll have this problem lol.

[914_teener]

Never ever heat any part of a shock absorber

The brake lines are sealed like the shock absorbers. When you heated them the air inside exapanded with the obvious result and broke at the weakest area.

Same reasoning for any ensclosed assembly using heat with a combustable gas....not a good idea.

I used a pair of side cutters for the flexible lines and then dealt with the connection to the hard lines after with penetrant oil.

Glad you weren't hurt.

[Tdskip]

Never ever heat any part of a shock absorber

The brake lines are sealed like the shock absorbers. When you heated them the air inside exapanded with the obvious result and broke at the weakest area.

Same reasoning for any ensclosed assembly using heat with a combustable gas....not a good idea.

I used a pair of side cutters for the flexible lines and then dealt with the connection to the hard lines after with penetrant oil.

Glad you weren't hurt.

Same here, cut the line right at the metal end then use a large socket after giving penetrating oil a chance to work.

[GregAmy]

A line filled with clean brake fluid should not have done that, unless you heated it for a long time and the fluid boiled. Any chance there was water in there?

And if anything, if the line wasn't blocked the pressure should have bled back into your master.

Still probasbly not a good idea to heat that muc. Next time crack the bleeder so the pressure can escape.

[blabla914]

you should probably also check the adjustment of the actuating rod on the master. there should be clearance. there is a spec in the book, don't recall what it is.

If the clearance isn't there then the master can be slightly depressed even when your foot is not on the brake pedal. this prevents pressure from bleeding off the system after every brake application as some of the heat of braking is transferrerred to the fluid. this can cause a big problem if not corrected before driving. As heat builds, the brakes will not release completely, which builds more heat. It's not good.

I have to agree with advice above. If the lines are trash I usually cut them before I go for the torch.

[ctc911ctc]

**********Perhaps I was NOT clear.*********

The Line (hard line and hose) was out of the car, on the bench....

There was NO Fluid in the hose nor in the Brake-Line. Both were clear end-to-end

The pressure was from the fluid that was in the fabric of the flexible brake hose which was trapped within the connector as in the picture. perhaps less than a drop or two of liquid.......if that.........

Thank you for all of the advice, but.........

The hose and the brake line were on a bench in a vice and I could not get them to release with a box wrench and penetrating oil,,,,so I then put a torch to it, and the hose popped!

I have never seen anything like it......so I thought i would share........just in case you have a similar situation.......

[914_teener]

Most brake fluids are flammable given enough heat.

But maybe you already knew that too.

[Shivers]

"This means it will easily burn compared to silicon-based fluids. If it is exposed to temperatures of 540-675 degrees Fahrenheit, it can even self-ignite. DOT 3 brake fluid is also flammable due to it being a glycol-based liquid."