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> Windshield Washer Conversion, From Water Valve Control to Microswitch
davep
post Feb 8 2007, 03:40 PM
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What happens if you want intermittent wipe and a pump?
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BigDBass
post Feb 8 2007, 03:44 PM
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Oh, it read to me like it would do both! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/whistle[1].gif) I don't remember at the moment if I even have intermittent wipers or not! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blush.gif)
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Aaron Cox
post Feb 8 2007, 04:53 PM
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pump + 924 switch gets you a powered squirter....

the switch has 4 stops on it.

to do intermittent wipers... you need a relay and the wiring harness.
andy showed it in a thread.
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CHAFF
post Feb 8 2007, 08:39 PM
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My mod.

-L


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orthobiz
post Feb 8 2007, 09:13 PM
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Upfixin: Vol 5, pg 80
Article by A Caldwell. Involves a microswitch on the regular 914 assembly.

Upfixin: Vol 7, pg 194
Suggests a 75/76 Rabbit column switch. It has the switch built in but needs subtle modification and reuse of 914 parts to work. It's in the article. PN 171.953.519 for the Rabbit.

Paul Biz
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Spoke
post Feb 8 2007, 10:03 PM
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QUOTE(CHAFF @ Feb 8 2007, 09:39 PM) *

My mod.

-L


I like your mod and I even have some switches like that. Very simple and straight forward. So it looks like you drilled out the plunger hole and screwed in the switch. Do you have any glue or a nut to hold the switch?

Spoke
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 9 2007, 12:25 PM
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Jerry... my mail-lady just came. She had a message she wanted me to give you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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CHAFF
post Feb 9 2007, 01:08 PM
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Hey Spoke, yep, drilled out just enough for the switch housing threads to catch on the new hole. This allows for you to tweak the distance from the actuator to the switch. Then topped off with a bit of epoxy to hold it.

Things to consider:
1) Make sure the switch isn't too hard to push on. The actuator is very delicate
2) Make a small V cut in the button part of the switch. This will ensure the actuator engages it fully. (Can't really see that in the pic)
3) Use the spare pin on the stalk for your single wire return to power the pump (makes for a nice clean install)

Biggest benefit.....everything is still original except the pressure valve is missing.

Cheers
-L



QUOTE(Spoke @ Feb 8 2007, 08:03 PM) *

QUOTE(CHAFF @ Feb 8 2007, 09:39 PM) *

My mod.

-L


I like your mod and I even have some switches like that. Very simple and straight forward. So it looks like you drilled out the plunger hole and screwed in the switch. Do you have any glue or a nut to hold the switch?

Spoke
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cary
post Feb 27 2007, 07:49 AM
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A couple of questions.
1. You still have to drill out the tank cap to vent ? Correct.
2. Wiring. You only need 2 wires right ? One to body gound. One to the pump.
3. Take the HOT 12 volts straight to the pump. Switch with the ground. Therefore not having any heat or shortening issues in the steering column.
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davep
post Mar 4 2007, 09:23 PM
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So, I have made a prototype switch holder, and it works. The switch will not carry the current, so a relay would be required along with a fuse and the pump. Should I make this into a turnkey kit?


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iamchappy
post Mar 4 2007, 09:34 PM
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Very nice, that looks great!
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Spoke
post Mar 5 2007, 02:05 AM
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Dave,

Your setup looks good. Ideally the switch should be able to carry the current of the pump. Adding a relay is an extra complication that could be avoided with a 1 to 5 amp switch.

What current rating is your switch?

Spoke
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Spoke
post Mar 5 2007, 02:09 AM
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QUOTE(cary @ Feb 27 2007, 08:49 AM) *

A couple of questions.
1. You still have to drill out the tank cap to vent ? Correct.
2. Wiring. You only need 2 wires right ? One to body gound. One to the pump.
3. Take the HOT 12 volts straight to the pump. Switch with the ground. Therefore not having any heat or shortening issues in the steering column.


1) Yeah, as shown in Sir Andy's thread, the cap needs to be drilled out.

2) Wiring: 1 switched 12V, fused lead to the switch, then to the pump. Ground wire from the pump to chassis ground.

3) Switch can be 12V switched or ground switched. Switching ground requires 2 wires to go from interior to front trunk. One is 12V HOT and one is switched ground. My car already has a switched 12V wire run to the trunk. The ground wire for the pump is connected to chassis ground in the trunk.

Spoke
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davep
post Mar 5 2007, 07:40 AM
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This switch is about 0.25 amp, and another I will try to sample is about 3 amps. Not sure of the inrush current of a washer pump, and that is what will burn the switch contacts. Relay can be a 10 amp unit that is mounted in an easy to replace location. Also have to have a fuse. I want this to be a reliable solution. Also have to figure out the pump mounting. The six has the mount locations, and I'd like to duplicate this and the 914/6 pump. I can supply the vent for the washer bottle cap.
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 5 2007, 12:20 PM
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Help. I received my 924 switch and opened it this Sunday. It was kinda cracked up where the mounting screws go into it and, it didn't seem to have a pull/on washer pump feature.

Am I missing something? The right stalk should pull correct?
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 5 2007, 01:11 PM
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sometimes its hard to feel the pull feature when it isnt mounted.....
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 5 2007, 02:44 PM
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The high beam on the left stalk is fairly obvious.
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 5 2007, 03:27 PM
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how many wires you got?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/blog-219-1153778014.jpg)
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Eric_Shea
post Mar 5 2007, 03:43 PM
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I see you have the same cracks...

Let me count wires. How many should I have? 11-12? (that's about all I can see in that pic)
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 5 2007, 03:45 PM
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you should have 2 more than a stock 914 switch (just the washer section)
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