Rust Repair Help... Minnesota style., I think I'm ready to throw in the towel. Options

[Chuck]

I also suggest learning to weld. That is the route I am going to go on my '73. I also have two younger brothers with body repair, restoration and welding experience to help me. I would also suggest looking at the Lincoln Weld Pak that Home Depot sells. I believe it is Loncolns SP135T packaged for Home Depot, has everything but the tank to do MIG and runs on 110v. That may be the route I go.

[Chuck]

I have an extra 110 flux core welder you can try out.
I just welded in one side of the Brad Mayeur long kit this week. Extremely heavy weight steel, originally designed to reinforce rust issues in the longs. I added these with the Engman inner kit on a solid rust free car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

You could watch me install the other side, I still have some prep work to do before I
start.

How are your floor pans and the hell hole area.....

Northern tools has a decent mig welder for around 300.00 it's what I use it can weld as thin as 26 gauge. Not as
nice as the Hobart 140 but it can do a decent job.


http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...32691_200332691

Chappy,

I will be undertaking installation of an Engman kit and long repair here in the next few weeks. I am in Maple Grove and would love to come watch the install of the Mayeur kit as well. Drop me a line and let me know. Thanks! Chuck

[lotus_65]

i'm looking forward to the pics.

it sounds like lots of work, and maybe not worth saving. if there's a lot of bits that are good, maybe look at one of these rollers from texas, have it shipped and put that nice engine and all the other stuff in it.

you'd learn more about the car, and between learning about the car and learning to weld, i'll take the car for now and hold off on the welding edu.

paul

[gaz914]

Have a go!

If it IS that bad, how can you make it worse?

With all the help around here, you almost can'y go wrong (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

cheers
Gaz

[iamchappy]

I will post a thread when I am ready to weld on the other side. I need to get my cars
rear suspension back on it so i can roll it off the lift and turn it around.

[914orRust]

Ok. I took a couple pictures of the hell hole. The previous owner put a temporary battery support in there. It worked only in the most primitive sense.







Tomorrow I'll try to get some shots of the rocker panel rust.

[So.Cal.914]

I don't see asphalt, could be worse.

[SirAndy]

I don't see asphalt, could be worse.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)


you'll have to open up the top of the long in the hellhole and clean out the inside ... then spray the hell out of it with metal ready ... then coat with POR-15 ... then weld it shut ...

how does the side/bottom of the long look?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Andy

[rjames]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Bottom side of the long will be more telling now. You might be in pretty good shape, actually.
Get those rocker covers off and show us some more pictures...

[914orRust]

I'm gonna pull the rocker covers off tomorrow.

Is there an easy way to do this without destroying them?

[tracks914]

Damn I don't see a hell hole...I only see a heck hole. Dang that looks much better than both restorations I've done. (Then again....I'm a welder)
Now if I could only perfect the body work thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Geodude]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) From the looks of things (Hell-Hole wise that is) and from painful experience (only two more months of therapy sessions), IMHO you have rust that likely goes into the longitudinal - that long, sort-of rectangular tube thingy that runs beneath the rocker panel and is connected up (literally curves upward) to the steel under the battery tray area and the wheel well area on the passenger side. Unfortunately, the Karmann designers made much of the area in question sandwhich-like with layers of steel. Look for holes (even small ones) that may have allowed water to get into or between (ughh) the layers, and, as in my car, eat out the "innards" of the longitudinal sandwich. The outer part may not show this bad rust. Do some probing (scewdriver and/or drill small test holes). The only real cure is to cut out the rust cancer to get to solid steel so that you have soething solid to weld onto. Welding - quantum mechanics it ain't - but it does take some practice. You can do it; just get a decent welder, welder's gloves, and a helmet with the auto adjustable eye protection gizmo. It also helps if the car can be raised up enough to see what in the heck you are doing.

Good luck - post more pics if possible as you go.

Steve J.

[lotus_65]

The good thing about all that is if you decide to fix it, it's reasonable to expect it will never be ignored again, leading to a much longer life than expected.
But I still think that if you have the means, a new roller infused with the gear you have already invested in is in order. Then put this one on a longer-term resurrection plan, learn to weld, consider upgrades, etc.
That way, for maybe a a thousand bucks (and your time), your actually driving this summer instead of being frustrated with a project you didn't expect.

paul

[914orRust]

I took off the rocker cover on the right hand side. I was surpised to find a significant amount of dog food hidden inside. Dog food?

Anyway, here are the pics. Is it as bad as I think it is? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Jack plug


Long


Front of long


My father-in-law said he'd come help me weld in the new pieces once I do the prep. Is this a lost cause or should I start cutting this week?

Thanks again for all the insight

[r_towle]

What you will need to do is some research here.
Look in the classic threads forum, and use the search tool.

You need to make up some door braces first (its a good way to learn welding also)
Remove the doors and install the door braces to keep the car the correct measurements. Search for the threads, search for door bracing etc.

You will then need the motor removed, and the car on 4 jack stands, weight off the wheels.
The proper measurements are up at the top of the page under the 914 info tab at the top.

The one big thing to remember is that after you weld, the metal tends to contract a bit as it cools. To mitigate this, you only weld an inch at a time, and let it cool. otherwise you can actually shrink the long enough that the door wont fit correctly.
Aside from that, you are fine.
Look up resotration design. There are many drawings, and examples of how to install all the various parts you need.

RIch

[Bartlett 914]

I took off the rocker cover on the right hand side. I was surpised to find a significant amount of dog food hidden inside. Dog food?

Mice. I had a house once and mice were bringing in dog food in the electrical conduit. All the electricial boxes were full. I found the critter across L1 and L2 of the main fuse box.

[So.Cal.914]

From the pic I would say "It's not that bad." But until you cut it open it is hard to

say what it looks like inside. But if pressed, I would say go for it. Seen worse.

[JB 914]

It looks like the jack point is gone, but, you can replace that or simply grind it down and use the jack points below the car.

if the rest of that rust is not going thru you could simply clean it, weld in a replacement jack point and metal prep paint with POR-15.

If you are going to weld you can also get the ENGMAN inner long kit. it will ad alot of strength to the car and the longs.

good luck

[Bartlett 914]

Brad Mayeur may also be a good option. He is in Peoria IL. It is a bit of a drive for you but may be worth it. He also has a long kit that is VERY strong. Your car will never sag with them. Your car is very fixable. I did see some rust on a fender. These areas should be looked after as well. Don't be shy. Show us all your rust. We won't be shocked. We have seen it all before.