(UPDATED with comments below)

From the photos, this is what I see that is not correct. Anything I'm missing?

Not correct / things to fix:
- outside mirror
- speaker boxes
- after market front air dam
- 80s radio
- white valve covers
- rust (?) spots on carpet
- painted (?) headlight motors
- 4-cyl center console
- color change back to Irish Green
- wheel center caps need to be anodized or something
- incorrect jack
- black plastic threshold plates and carpet cleat should be aluminum

Not right but no reason to "correct" (IMO):
- Euro lenses
- Euro driving lights vs USA fog lights
- 15x6 Fuchs (was originally steel)

May or may not be correct:
- horn button is not correct
- center seat fabric should be smooth (Center cushion could be the Colgan aftermarket item, period correct)

questions / not sure:
- antenna may not be right... ?
- repro rear trunk carpet (missing grommet). or might be orig.

-Steve

914

And paint (color change from Irish Green) from the 80s that is going bad...

Looks fun:I would drive it!!

Not on the 914/6
send me the VIN and I will see if I have any other info on the car

Euro driving lights vs USA fog lights
Center cushion could be the Colgan aftermarket item, period correct
Euro lenses!
Black plastic threshold plates and carpet cleat should be aluminum
Incorrect jack
Repro rear trunk carpet (missing grommet)

Looks like a cared-for driver now...could be a gem in Irish Green after a full strip and rotisserie

Tool kit doesn't appear to be basket weave...

My '70 rear trunk carpet does not have the grommet. I believe it was added in '73.

I believe a previous asking was 35k for this -6

Painted headlight motors!? RUN AWAY...

Looks pretty good from here. None of the low points are un-fixable.

Very few things are better than an Irish Green 6er...it needs to go back to that color! I'd say high 20's low 30's....

Thanks for the feedback. I updated the first post.

It's just what happens with years of owners customizing. I wouldn't mind getting it and fixing some of those things.

Granted a purist wouldn't like what I'm doing to my car...but it was a lowly 1.7 to start with (found the original badge marks when I sent it off for paint)

Gas tank area is suppose to be painted body color. Shock tower area is undercoated. A lot of people do a color change and just spray bomb black that area since it takes some time to dismantle. My opinion that is a drawback- many comments on cosmetics-do not overlook the drivetrain-make sure car has good compression and trans shifts properly- engine rebuild on a 914-6 is the same as a 911 Big $$ Good luck!

inside rear view mirror is the later version

An update! The seller and I finally came to agreement (was about 3 weeks of back and forth) and I bought the car this weekend. I flew to Portland this weekend and drove back in 2 days. Just over 1,000 miles in 2 days, and that's more than the car has been driven in 10 years. He really needed it and seemed quite happy to be on the road again (especially south on the I-5 near Sacramento at 1am...).

It's funny how much more you learn about a car just driving it a bunch, even beyond photos, PPI, and close inspection.

I've got a long list of items to fix on the car (that got a little longer as I drove home), but it's quite fun to own my first real 6. My 5th 914, but my first real six.

And given that I have 3 914s now, the 1971 1.7 will probably be for sale shortly. The wife wants to limit it to 3 914s at any given time, and that actually seems somewhat reasonable to me...

-Steve

> Black plastic threshold plates and carpet cleat should be aluminum

Right, but the weird thing is these are the original aluminum peices that the PO had anodized (or something) black. He said in the 80s he was going for a black and white theme...

> Incorrect jack
> Tool kit doesn't appear to be basket weave...

Correct - all wrong and missing

> Repro rear trunk carpet (missing grommet)
> My '70 rear trunk carpet does not have the grommet.

It looks like some don't have the grommet. PO said that was the correct color and the Brett Johnson book has some photos of rear carpet with the grommet too.

> It needs to go back to that color!

I agree. Too bad it was ever painted. Even ratty Irish Green would be better than peeling white...

> Shock tower area is undercoated.

Correct. Anyone know why the factory did this on -6s? It doesn't make any sense to me. It's ugly and seems to serve no purpose.

-Steve

All original sixes are like that. Six shock towers are all painted black, then aligned and covered with a tarish goo that marks any changes.

Congrats Steve, given your eye for detail, it will be fun to watch this one come back to it's original glory.

congrats

good luck and lots of joy

Congratulations! You have yourself a nice Six there. I really look forward to seeing it come to the level that I know you will bring it to.

Only assumptions. I have a video of a 70's era 911 assembly line. The front end is installed as a completed unit as these go down the line. It comes toward the front of the car with the struts in a horizontal position and is tilted into position and bolted up in one smooth operation.

It may be a flag to denote a six tub that would get the basic 911T front suspension (with the exception of the special 17mm 914 size t-bars with the 911 spline count).

They could be aligned differently with the slightly different track and again, the black used as a marker to indicate a six.

I kinda like it. It was applied with a sloppy brush and reeks of one of those quirky -6 things. I even emulated it on my build because I thought it was a neat, yet odd feature.

I have the correct front valance if you chose to go back stock.

Like the roof blinker?

Steve,
Well educated move. You posted it and asked for advice and hopefully you used it in your favor to set your target price. Congrats on another -6

All sixes had those too...

> I have the correct front valance if you chose to go back stock

That's actually an old photo, it has a repro stock looking front valence on it now.

Well I've been digging into fixing all the things wrong with my new -6.

I assumed the engine would need a full rebuild, and of course it did. And like all 914 projects it ends up taking twice and long and twice as much as you'd expect.

I've done 95% of the work on my orange conversion, but for this project I'm just planning on keeping it a stock [very nice] driver and letting some shops do 90% of the work.

I had European Motorsports in nearby Vista do the engine rebuild. They do general euro car maintenance and work on some very high end cars at the same time. An original 73 RS and original speedster were both getting engine rebuilds at the same time as mine. I've never had them do major work like this before, but they come pretty highly recommended.

I'm pretty happy with the results and communication so far, but I thought I'd share some photos here for any additional input you guys may have. While I'm not building a perfect concours car, I guess I did expect things to end up, cosmetically, a little more perfect and shiny. Especially given the $$$$$ involved. Or maybe I'm just way overly anal retentive on my orange car. Let me know your thoughts.

After much deliberation, we re-used the old cylinders and bored them out to 81mm (from 80mm) and have new 81mm pistons. E cams, updated tensioners, and otherwise 100% stock. I really didn't have any interest in trying to get a little more horsepower out of it, because even if I could get 170+ HP out of the little 2.0 (or 2.4 or ...) it would still be a relatively (to a 3.6) slow car. So the build was just to get a very nice 2.0 motor.

Factory 80mm 2.0 pistons are much (like an additional $6k) more expensive than going to 81mm. And in the interest of keeping everything stock, I didn't want to machine the heads for anything larger. I think it will end up with 130 HP or so. Should be fun.

And new flywheel, new clutch, and rebuilt the transmission too...

See any problems? Things that should be changed before it goes back into the car?

My questions:

- is that hardware (1 nut, 1 wingnut) correct for the air cleaner/snorkel?

- I'm guessing blue plug wires are wrong?

- can the carbs be cleaned up easily with a little more effort or ?

- rubber fuel lines ok or should I really bother finding german/cloth lines?

- allen bolts on cam covers look right?

- whats proper for the valve covers? (lowers were updated to later covers)

- what the proper way to cover/protect the oil temp/pressure wires? or is there nothing like it currently is?

Thanks for any tips!

And I'll follow up shortly with the "replace the battery tray" repair that turned into something much more! (first time that's happened in a 914, right?!?!

-Steve

914

To me, there are some things that just make sense to change. With todays fuels, fuel lines is one of them. I'm glad you have this car. It's in good hands.

Small 914 world. I looked at that 6 for a customer.
Crag at CAMP

studs on lower covers and get SC lowers , as they are aluminum and look stock,.air cleaner should be plastic. plug wires? no biggy consumable
Irish Green .....

What a cool story and project. I hadn't seen this thread until today. I did notice something IMPORTANT...at least if you want your valve adjustments to go well and not have to include dropping or lowering the engine. The turbo valve covers must be machined down about one half inch on the rear half or they will not be able to be removed once the engine is in the car. Some folks say only the right side needs to me machined...I didn't take the chance and just had both covers machined down. I've attached a couple of pics that Rich Johnson sent to me when I was making this mod to my car. I took the covers to a local machine shop and I think they charged me about 1/2 hour labor or approximately $30 to do the work. Additionally, some years ago I found a photobucket from "RJ Wilmoth" that has quite a lot of great pics of his fairly unmolested 1971 Silver 914/6...It's a beauty...I have used these pics to help understand what things look like for parts of my car which is a -6 conversion. Here is the link to his photobucket pics. Some great shots of the engine and engine bay along with many other areas of the car. Hope this helps!

http://s199.photobucket.com/user/rj968/lib...975035906505395

> The turbo valve covers must be machined down

Yup, that's on the list. And I think they mentioned they were going to use bolts instead of studs/nuts there...

-Steve

> fuel lines is one of them

Yup, all the fuel lines have been replaced, I guess I was just wondering about using the rubber ones (pictures) versus what I believe should be german/cloth covered fuel lines.

-Steve

A couple more photos...

Keep this in mind that today's pump gasolines contain additives which will degrade older rubber hoses and even new hoses that aren't made specifically to guard against the additives. Sometimes the breakdown can be in as little as one year. Even brand new low pressure fuel hose (non-fuel injection) isn't guaranteed to protect against this degradation. You can get rubber hose today called 30R9 that is resistant to corrosive fuel additives. It's an excellent choice for carb applications. Looking at your pics I can't tell if the fuel lines are made from 30R9 or not. If they are you will see 30R9 labled on them somewhere along the outside. You can find it locally...Just have to ask for it specifically. I used it for all of flexible lines on my -6 conversion. Chris Foley owner of Tangerine Racing who you can find on the web or in our Vendor Forum, is a big advocate for these lines.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessfuellines.htm

Neither one is correct on the air cleaner, that said, neither is the air cleaner. The snorkel is correct but the cleaner housing is not.

Both should be "Plastic" wing nuts on black plastic studs with black plastic nuts to lock the studs in place.

Speaking of plastic, the original -6 housing is plastic, low profile with the cold enrichment circuit squirters built in. You can possibly use an old MFI housing (same housing without the cumbersome enrichment circuit) but you may have to drill a few holes for your float vents.

Black plug wires for sure.

Carbs, yes but, how far do you want to go? They do look pretty bad though.

I prefer new cloth covered fuel lines. Your call.

Re: valve covers. Do you need to machine turbo covers if you don't mind dropping the engine for maint?

No. But machining the covers should be very low cost. You're just knocking all the ribs down ~1/2"

Some guys use bolts instead of studs but then you risk loosening up the threads with repeated removal.

Congratulations ! Good Luck
The Marelli distributor is right, but it is also not so good. If you need points I have new. Get a Bosch.
The oil temp and pressure wires are not covered, correct as pictured.
Tins and front mount way too shiny. Hardware should be yellow chromate.
Positive battery terminal is a generic replacement and it will be difficult to find a suitable appearing substitute. The original end is a permanent part of the cable and that is part of the engine harness. I'd look into a 356 positive battery terminal. It's detachable and looks about right.
It will also have the necessary attachment point for the alt. and other wires.
Metal wing nuts and flat washers are right for the air filter snorkel. But I don't think that you have the wing nut. I can send pics if you need.
What's the VIN ?

> original -6 housing is plastic, low profile with the cold enrichment circuit squirters built in

Is the 911 plastic housing different than the 914-6 plastic housing?

I.e. is this the right one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-901-911-PL...340&vxp=mtr

> The Marelli distributor is right, but it is also not so good.

By "not so good" do you mean just dirty or ?

VIN is 9140430377

-Steve

Or is this one correct?

-Steve

That air filter is for a 911 with mechanical fuel injection, probably '72-'73
I think it has the plastic stud on one side that is for that application as well.
The Shell oil factory fill sticker is positioned to be read from behind the car.
Also, there are no squirter tubes or plumbing for cold start (or car fire) on that filter.
But it is plastic.
Marelli distributors are hard to find parts for and are less dependable than Bosch distributors. There are many more choices and parts availability with a Bosch.
Best choice would be one for a 911S

That's the MFI housing I mentioned. If you look at the top of your carbs you will see two float bowl vents sticking up between the air horns. If you look at that housing, it has no means to accommodate those vents.

That said, I really like that housing because it is basically the same as the 914-6 unit but, without the cumbersome and somewhat dangerous cold start we mentioned in the previous posts.

Solution = 1/2" Spade bit. Drill 4 holes.

Steve...
went and took a couple of shots of the air box off my 914-6
my snorkel was cut off (by a PO) long time ago...wish I could find one..anyone have one for sale??
you can see the holes for the cold start arrangement...they are plugged up right now
with plastic hole plugs....it has metal studs, washers, and wing nuts for the snorkel and metal breather hose inlet...
John

Jhoyas air filter is the one.
The wing nuts,studs, plastic holders etc. are the same as the four sixes that I've owned.
The cold start plumbing is missing. No need to collect those parts too soon. If you do find them don't dare connect them. Can you say "KABOOM" ?

Car is back and has a fully rebuilt 2.0 now. Wow, that was expensive. In general, I've discovered that the less horsepower a Porsche engine makes, the more expensive they are to rebuild. Strange.

Anyways, doesn't it look like the engine is sitting too low?

-Steve

914

914

Yep, it's sitting too low, check to see which way the washers for the mount are installed

I think a Porsche engine rebuild is about the same no matter the power. Stock/low HP versions usually use factory bits instead of aftermarket, so that may be the $$.
Good thing mine is not going to be stock But color me jealous of the heat exchangers. Did I miss something, I thought this car was white...

> I thought this car was white

Yup, the car is white, but is originally Irish Green, which I'm bring it back to. So the engine bay and rear trunk were entirely

I've basically started the car change process, and hopefully don't need to pull the engine again.

-Steve