Anyone want to compare/contrast?

I need a master cylinder. $225 vs $95 is not enough to get myself killed. I bought one on eBay, but a recent conversation has me rethinking that.

Anyone happy with URO? Any measurable, concrete reasons the ATE is better than URO?

Let the games begin.

I have used both with no problems except:

The URO does not come with great rubbers for the feed lines and they lack the washers under the MC connections. I just used the rubbers & washer from an ATE.

I think their QC may be lacking though.

Big Question? Are you comparing 19mm to 19mm parts? I thought the URO only came in 19mm for the 914-6 or 911. When did they start making the stock 17mm for the -4? It has been shown the larger master cylinder without larger brakes is an urban legend.

I've heard of issues with the Ate ones as well. Might be best to check with Eric Shea at PMB and see what he's recommending these days. Also, be sure to bench bleed the master cylinder before installing as sometimes it's an absolute pain to get the pedal to firm up after replacing.

1. Copied from a post on pelican -
"Failed MC
Ironically, I just replaced the MC on my '71 914 with a uroparts unit, and after 20 minutes of driving, the pedal went to the floor. it would come right back to firm pedal, then fail again. This made for some sketchy driving in traffic back home. On the rack, all four corners were re-bled with a fresh liter of super blue, no improvement. Turns out, the brand new MC was bypassing the brake circuit and simply raising the level in the reservoir. I ordered a new ATE 19mm unit from our host and installed it with no issues(other than having to relinquish the Super Blue for Gold). Check the reservoir level as your pedal is failing to engage."

2. I'm pretty sure Zack-a-Doodle documented a failed uro on his vacca rabbi build thread.

3. Eric Shea does not sell them.

Three strikes, yer out.

I would just add that there are a lot of safety critical parts. For example, the ignition wiring can be pretty important while on the highway.

I am curious about the Uro, but am rebuilding an original ATE after careful honing. That doesn't always inspire confidence either.

Anyone in the trade will tell you that the return rate on the URO is way higher. I think that qualifies as a concrete reason.

With regard to safety, it seems like the issue with the URO is spotty QC (as opposed to they are all deficient in some way). The bad ones tend to be DOA. If you manage to bleed the system then stand on the brakes hard in the garage a couple times without a failure, you will probably be fine.

Note, the above is just my observation and is NOT a recommendation for the URO. We (GPR) don't sell them anymore.

Ermm, the statements 'you will probably be fine' and 'don't sell them anymore' answers the question for me

Besides the safety issue, it's abjob you don't want to do to often