All,

I'm considering some of these fibreglass doors for my 914 track car ...

http://www.porsche914fibrglass.com/

seems like a cheap(ish) option for lightweight doors - has anyone used / fitted them before ?

Looks neat but the website is weak. Many pages go no where.

Making a form,plug,mold and part in GRP/Kevlar/Aramid would require a market for 914 parts like that.
Expensive to tool up,ask any die/mold man working in metal,time and money.
A one off method is also not cheap and the results vary,as seen here,what with the plywood board front fascia look.
I do want to go down that path personally as well,to make more light,and impervious to corrosion.
Some expertise and practical experience in the methods is needed however.
A few links..>>
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...mental+aircraft
https://www.google.ca/webhp?sourceid=chrome...am%20automobile
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua48wuTH8us
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFSXIP6Vw8...B713C2239BF7D60
Cheapest way:The existing doors as plugs.Rough outline,details must be closely followed,returns,and walls,etc.
1)A clean dust free workplace ,well ventilated and illuminated.Use proper safety equipment,rules.
2)remove doors of 914,strip clean and fill holes.Mud it if they'll be discarded later.
3)Parting wax coating topskin of outer panel.All kind of products are available.
4)1st,2nd,3rd gelcoat in epoxy,micro and silica filled,for subsequent finishing of faults.(faults are inevitable)
5)1st and 2nd layers of bi cloth lightweight,tooled for fine resolution of details
6)1 layer of heavy cloth,add texture features for subsequent foam adhesion.
7)Dam the skin and pour high density polyurethane foam to 6-8" thickness,inserting reinforcing mesh or ribs and stringers.
8)Your mold is ready,repeat for all skins.
9)You are now ready to layup your part,vacuum bagging techniques will generate the most acceptable results.
10)Determine the type of cloth and resin to be used for your parts,and what the reinforcing cores will be.
11)Do not be discouraged if the results are foul,start again,having learned the error.
12)Epoxy is less prone to shrinkage,a fault with polyesters,doesn't stink,and is resistant to water ingress.
13)A lot of time and effort,learning and practice to get results of a few kilos overall.
A CF composite monocoque that closely resembles a 914 chassis though,is a possible target.
How much time and money do you wish to spend?The GRP industry is replete with many tales of really sharp guys failing.
That there is some risk involved shouldn't deter you,could be a lot of fun,like what John Britten and Sir Jack Brabham experienced.

http://www.compositesworld.com/blog
https://www.google.ca/search?q=composite+ai...ction+kitplanes
http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/a...od-plane-4.html
https://www.google.ca/search?q=composite+sa...etFyTNiKd2uM%3A

A careful methodical approach,well versed before you begin,makes success more probable,and economical.

Click to view attachment

A personal Murene-6,a single concept car from France.A rusted 914-4 extracted from the mud is all you need to start.
https://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cl...C3%A8ne-heuliez

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=246444
Art Center School of design methods,foam,clay,glass,computers,and talent.
http://www.allpar.com/cars/concepts/dodge/M4S-Ackerman.html
http://www.allpar.com/racing/joe-pappas-m4s.html

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those are steel doors,,zoom in on this photo you can see the door beam..
Or they are the Best Fiberglass doors in the world..

I have 2 pairs of glass doors and they are not that pretty and they cost way more $$

for example;
http://www.gt-racing.com/914-doors-with-fl...nside-part-84f/

barry, pls post some pics of your car and its engine. tell us about it. what are you trying to achieve, a few less seconds per lap? if money is no object cool, otherwise just gut out a pair of early doors. thanks jim

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I agree, that door looks too accurate for fiberglass.
There is an answering machine on the listed phone number.
I'll wait for a reply.
And they're in New Jersey ! ?

Jim- check out my 'Aussie 914 rebuild' thread-
The '75 doors are HEAVY- was looking for a way for them to be lighter - how hard is it to rip out the door bar?
It'll mostly be a track car, with a cage, so not so worried about the door bar protection....

Barry - My doors are steel and gutted...its clean but not for everybody. Not hard to do either...

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


[quote name='barrym' date='Nov 28 2015, 07:51 PM' post='2270801']
Jim- check out my 'Aussie 914 rebuild' thread-
The '75 doors are HEAVY- was looking for a way for them to be lighter - how hard is it to rip out the door bar?
It'll mostly be a track car, with a cage, so not so worried about the door bar protection....

I just noticed these for sale on kijiji also.

I was thinking that the only way to cut all those holes on the inside would be with a water jet. And then the doors would have to be two pieces otherwise the opposite side would get cut as well.

kijiji

Click to view attachment

The build thd:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=244528

A 914 racecar,in Australia,may not be required to have the inner skins at all,halving the weight and effort of fabrication.
The shape of the 914's doorskin is a very simple form,essentially an extruded profile,other than the latch detail.
A much more crude method may be all that is needed,a one-off,epoxy/glass on styrofoam layup,ez-style.
This needs to be intensively surfaced the traditional hand sanding way,filling and resanding to an acceptable smoothness.
Simply(ha!)tape the foam into the door opening and cut,surform and sand the foam to the shape 'inside' the rough blocks.
A very traditional sculptors approach,think of it as so much easier than working in marble or limestone.
Do not cut too deep,go slow and careful,until it 'looks good'.(Like when chiselling tits)
The open celled foam will absorb epoxy,so maskoff or paint the areas where the layup needs to be thin.
Add a few stiffeners and remove from the car.Gouge out the un-needed foam and layup the backside ribs and formers.
Thin,light and stiff door panels is the result,without molds,requiring mucho hand finishing,but ok.
After the ease with which the doors were done,begin now on the frunk n trunk lids.
Thin,light translucent panels,home-made like the aircraft and surf-boards before them.
Keep it clean,diligently vacuuuming and sweeping,wear a mask to keep the foam dust out.
Labour intensive,this way is.


Further:
https://www.acpsales.com/Solid-Fiberglass-Sheets.html
https://www.google.ca/search?q=composite+sa...sRSEcAP8sVGM%3A
Plaster Buck
http://www.forgottenfiberglass.com/history...pt-1962-part-1/


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More plastic,the kinder,softer types.
A repeat of a thd in the sandbox,put there in error.
Skinned open cell polyurethane foam,tougher than the old stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BnBnlbC_kE

Dashpads,more UV resistant than the old recipe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpSZrFET5WI
Industrial Polymers Corporation USA
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/company
A few more vendors of similar products.
http://www.chemionics.com/plastisol.html
http://www.semproducts.com/marine-marine-f...ings/vinyl-coat
http://www.polyone.com/en-us/products/viny...es/default.aspx
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIcjTOPj6OY sem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4y-EzYH3mcc vht
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeZnqI9ORBE easyflo
http://www.smooth-on.com/
http://www.wacker.com/cms/en/industries/pl...idsilicones.jsp
http://www.eagerplastics.com/ure.htm
https://www.youtube.com/user/BJBEnterprises/videos

Some useful materials to make modern replacements (reasonable facsimiles)for the aged vinyl +polyurethane foamcores.
Talent needed to realize the molds and patterns,bucks.

I received a return call yesterday while I was out.
I'll try to make contact today.

Yep, and not as easy as you would think.

I'm very interested to hear what you find out; their price is exceptionally good if it's true.

Bingo !
Made contact and will visit in the next few days.
It all sounds right.
I'll report back after visit.

Nice! While you're there could you ask about hoods, etc.? His price on the door is so good maybe he could make hoods/bumpers for a more economical cost than most other vendors. The East Coast location would be nice too...

Great news....if true Ill take 2 pairs

Any news to report ??

Easy to cut out the bars with a "whizz wheel" 3 inch side grinder tool, just be patient & wear eye protection--ear protection, too for me. I cut out the inner framework except for about 1/2 inch around the perimeter, then got at the big bar. Just slide a piece of sheet metal between the outer panel skin and the bar & go at it....
Rigged up a zip tie & scrap serpentine belt pull for the latch, works fine.Click to view attachment

I plan to visit the shop after the holidays.