Got tired of looking for these some have them listed at $75 and 90, but no Who's interested? I know I need one soon!

Count me in!

Hey Mark,

I know that they needed to be the correct part number CHT for each MY & engine in order to work properly - i.e.: -037 for the `73 2.0, -043 for the `74 2.0 (maybe 75 & 76 GC 2.0 too??), etc.?

So will you be making them in the various "flavors" to match to the EFI systems in the different MYs & engines of the 914s, as did Bosch?


Tom
///////

Great! Gonna be ok for thT 1.8L L-Jet ?

me also, if for 70 1.7

Well I have the spec for the 012, so I can make it work. I'm not sure the variations on the others, is it size or resistance? Anyone know for sure?

They're physically the same, the only difference is the resistance/temperature curve. I think Brad Anders has some graphs on his website.

--DD

Mark,
MCMark had an alternative design he worked out for these. It is supposed to be a more modern construction alternative. You may want to contact him regarding it before you dive into production.
Marty

IIRC it is those + the reaction time is slower on the -037 with the factory in-line resistor, but the ECU, MPS, etc. are all set up to work together correctly, while mixing components generally leads to running problems.

Probably Brad Mayeur or Brad Anders can explain the details better than I!


Tom
///////

I'll check in with him too to see what he's got, thanks,
mark

I was mis-remembering the CHT sensor info. What I found on Brad Anders' site is the following:


Sensor Temp = 39 deg. F
(ice bath with thermometer) Temp = 61 deg. F
(room temperature)
Temp = 210 deg F
(boiling water at 1000 feet altitude)
0 280 130 003 6.10 K ohms 2.94 K ohms 199.3 ohms
0 280 130 012 NA 2.85 K ohms 191.2 ohms
0 280 130 017 3.63 K ohms 1.74 K ohms 124.7 ohms


Not a chart, but a table. It comes from about 3/4 of the way down this page: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm

The ECU page (http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/ecu.htm) has charts showing voltage on one specific point inside the ECU versus CHT resistance. That may have been what I was remembering.

--DD

So are you probing the community?


I'll probably need a spare for the white car's 1.7L (1.9L)

Well looks like there is enough commonality that they may be interchangeable, but not identical based on this -
Available new. The ...012 sensor is in short supply. Either sensor should work OK.

I'm looking at doing these again because I need them. Offering up the GB to those that are interested, but may raise the price to $75 after the GB if there's not much interest on these.

I did ping McMark on the phone today, but will follow up if he has a better answer. I may have located suitable materials for the build but can't check til Monday.

I don't have much of a choice as I do need one, so I will be working on a solution one way or another. Just really surprised that there's not much interest.

I forwarded my info to Mark so he can proceed with this.

If you're car doesn't run well until it warms up, you might have a CHT issue. Any stock FI car that's working correctly should run as well cold, as it does warm.

SO,
As noted we will be making the Original Customs version of these. They will be 3-4 weeks out. I Like what Mark had going with these and we can make these available again.

The key here is we need some quantity to get the price down, so hopefully there is enough demand to make these pencil out. Right now the only sources that "say" they have them are at least $80.

The discussion I had with Mark was that most people don't realized these have failed as think as it's an old car it will run a little rough until it warms up. They just live with it.
We will be doing a diagnostic video (once my car is back together to show you the effect of the failed one I have and the improvement. There is a good possibility that a few could benefit from having these and don't realize it.

SO if you want in on the GB price you will need to bump the thread to get the code when ready.

Given the costs these will be about $60 after the GB


SO whos' in?

Yep, need at least one here

Count me in for one as well.

I will take 2!

Put me down for one!

I'm in for one, any discount if I machine my own housing?

Mark.....I have one of the Originals that McMark built in my car. It runs
Flawless.

It has a discrete ground wire which I would recommend.

I.m in but IIRC the resistance values coincide with which ecu it is paired with.

I am definately in for my D.jet 2056 I am working on.

I'm in too and want to support this

if they are spec for the 2.0 ....

Me too. In for 1 on a '74 2.0 D-Jet.

I'll take three for a 2.0

Thanks,

Thanks
I will update as this progresses.
Mark

I'm in for 1!

1 for me please.

I'm in for one.

I'm in for one '73 1.7

The way I am reading the thread is that there is lots of interest?! I want one for my '73 2.0 but I want the correct one, not a tweaked one. Build it and they will come.
BTW....I think all of us teeners will buy anything electrical that is an improvement over forty year old technology.....kind of like a knee replacement. Thank you!

six

One for me please,

Keith

I'm in for a 74 2.0 becoming a 2056.

I am in for one, I need the 73 2.0 L specs

Its my understanding that they are NLA and have the 0 280 130 017 P/N

According to Brad:
"The 1973 2.0L's came with the:
0 280 130 017 head temperature sensor,
039 971 762 A ballast resistor,
0 280 100 037 manifold pressure sensor, and the
022 906 021 E version of the ECU.
This set of components must be used together. "

I'm in for 1. '73 2 liter.
Jim

I'm in for one for a '73, 2.0.

Thanks

5 for me please 73 2.0

thanks

Add my name to the list for one.
Can you provide some details regarding the proposed new design and how it might be customized to specific injection systems, engine sizes and model years?
Thanks, Marty

Testing the parts now. But no, stock only for these. We could do others possibly, but on this stock only.

Hey Mark.....so only 012 and not 017's?

I am down for 2 of the 012 Mark.

Jeff, off the top of your head, what would a 1.7L need?

... and would punching it out to a 1911 change anything?

1 012 for me please

I do have some 1.7 heads I can check.

A 1911 is a custom set-up so I cannot help you there.

This thread is 012 only. It's dialed in, and looks like we will start having parts ready in about 10 days,
Again you guys know how I work, if the numbers grow the cost will go down.
I was planning on running 100 units, but looks like I may be expanding production.

Please count me in for ONE. Thanks

This CHT should never be used with the 73 ballast resistor. If you have the ballast resistor, it needs to be removed.

But then, you should only have the ballast resistor if you have a complete, actual, confirmed and complete set of 73 2.0 components (ECU, MPS, etc).

I'm in for 2
74 2.0