Thought I'd ask you folks as you are the most knowledgeable on the cars. I have a restored 1974 model with a 2.0. I am wondering what I should ask for it as I need to sell it. Prices seem all over the place. Hagerty values it at $23,700 - "Excellent" as the condition for the car. Pics attached, looking for opinions.

Car runs and drives great, no engine/tranny leaks.

thanks

Few more details: car originally had AC (components removed, except inside blower, still have the old stuff), dual weber 44's, carb cam, flat top pistons (like European car), new shocks, tires, ball joints etc.......

Ask 20 take 16 seems fair to me.

Lack of original fuel injection hurts it a bit….

prices are all over because condition is all over the place -
1. Condition,
mileage,
2. originality
3. documentation of said condition mileage and originality
-4. model year , options, etc matter quite a bit as well.

haggarty is a nice place to start but value is whatever someone is willing to pay -
I have them for my insurance and they have my 75 2.0 appearance group etc car insured for $20,000. , once its repainted I will insure it for $30k agreed value -
If I were listing mine id start on the high end and adjust price until you get interest. depends on how much in a hurry you are to sell.
If you list it at $12,000, you will have a lot more interest-that is were it sounds like your car would sell based on what ive seen recently between here and the auction sites. you could put it on BAT or e-bay and put a reserve that you are willing to part with the car at. - that will tell you a lot about where its at value wise-Good luck if you list it. --

Phil

To many variables from just your pics.

Color change?

Rust repair, if so pics of what was done and how?

Orig vs reproduction parts used?

Miles since motor and trans build?

It certainly looks nice but it is hard to value a vehicle based on pics.

Documentation and quality of the restoration is critical (before, during and after). A truly restored vehicle can bring a premium but a poor quality restoration can make it worth less.

Another big factor is how quickly you want or need to sell. Even for the top cars, the top prices are usually for those vehicles where the seller is willing to hold out for the right buyer. A year ago I sold a '68 Vista Cruiser Wagon because I needed the $$$. Probably could have made another $3-$4k if I had waited 6 more months but I did not lose money either and it got me through the momentary crisis.

From the pics (real life is better), it's a clean-looking car. Good paint, interior, and trunks. Clean and tidy engine bay. At that price point ($24K), lack of original FI will be a problem for many buyers, some may not care if you have time to wait. Pics of the underside and the critical rust areas would help. Front bumper top appears to be showing underside rust, or am I seeing that wrong? Also looks like your crankcase breather is just vented into the engine compartment, is that right? Are the cooling flaps and thermostat present and functioning? Front and rear trunks look slightly misaligned, are the hinges solid? Extra Porsche badging on the back is a turn-off for originality buyers. Is the fuel evaporation system and charcoal canister present and functioning (i.e. venting into the intakes, not into the air)?

Depends on who you are selling to. Advertise in "Panarama", the Porsche Club of America's National Magazine, for example. It will get attention. I've concluded that 911, Boxsrer, Cayman, etc., owners now want and love the 914 as a car to enjoy without the fear, or expense of their $60K rides. Also they see it as a good investment, plus some have the cash to easily buy a good AIR COOLED 914 for the kind of price you are thinking about.

thanks for all you comments and suggestions. There are a few things I can do to tweak the car to be better, provide more detail on issues it had, take underside pics etc.

thanks

Also, try to find a local PCA Concours judge who hopefully knows 914s, to give you an opinion on it's level of condition, because there truly are very few "Excellent" level cars of any type out there (top 1-3%)

No offense - but the biggest mistake made - especially with sites like Hagerty & KBB who use those rating levels for condition - is folks thinking everything is excellent condition - whereas if you really read the definitions of the various levels on each site, you quickly realize that for the Hagerty "Excellent" & KBB's "1" level - they're really talking about a recently restored & pristine, non-driven garage queen Concours show car with absolutely nothing wrong or needed.

They're not talking about what we would commonly call an excellent or very nice DD level car - those will be in the KBB 2-4 or the mid-level Hagerty ratings.

I agree with the others too, that a carb converted 914 will also never qualify as their "1" or "Excellent" rating, period - it's just outside the definition, & the resto-mod look of the steering wheel, wheels (real or repro Mahles??), etc. are all things taking it away from the 1/Excellent level.

However, it always in the end comes down to what a willing seller & buyer agree upon for each car!

If you're third party objective with the help of a judge or CW restorer, & with your own strict reading of their definitions, the Hagerty value curve will be your best guide. I can't tell from your pix enough to give you a value, but I think it would end up in the $-teens, but where is the question, based on what I & others have said.

GLWTS!
Tom
///////

Hagerty prices seem to be high, until you read the condition. Concours, the highest valuation, is for better than new, perfect cars.

Excellent is the kind that you see wining at local and small shows. Very, very nice cars.

Good, is where most cars fall.

Fair is daily drivers with some faults.

Not saying anything about your car, but value is almost always about condition, and getting the correct condition, is key to setting correct value.

-- brett

^^^

As others have said, pix alone are not enough to value a car. But, based solely on the pix, this sounds like a good ballpark to work with.

Click to view attachment

Prices are all over the board because every car is unique when looking at cars that are 40+ years old.

It all depends on how bad you need to sell it. If you are in no hurry, start high and see what kind of offers you get and take what you are willing to let it go for. If you are in a hurry and need the cash, list it for $10K OBO and take the best offer which would most likely be over asking price.

One possible downside is that it's an AC car. Dealers hacked up cars to fit all the AC garbage in there.

Pretty car. Good luck with your sale.

Paul

I think that AC on the 914 is like a swimming pool on a house. It neither adds nor reduces value as some people (myself) consider it a plus while others consider it a negative.

You indicated that the AC components have been removed. If everything has been removed and any cut up sheet metal replaced / repaired, etc. it is essentially back to original. If, on the other hand you simply removed the compressor and some other parts then it definitely becomes a price deduction. For the guys who want A/C they face expensive repairs getting everything back to working order. For those who do not want A/C they face repairing any hacked up metal from when it was installed.

Its all in the details!

Best of luck.