after 8 years of ownership, and 2 years of rust repair and other such stuff, i am fuinally getting ready to take it to get the fenders repaired the reat of the way and the crappy respray sanded off and car repainted.
i wantes to start a new thread apart from the failed entry into the first rebuild contest. with the help of BillH1963 and a friend of his (Mike) i hope to have this done in 2 months!

i am pulling this motor and transmission today.
stripping car down this week and next week taking bare car with windows out, interior out, up to Mikes shop up near Columbia SC.

They will be sanding it down by hand to the original primer and fixing and missed rust etc not repaired last year- as previously documented the floor pan rust jack points longs and pedal area were all repaired by Chis and Ed at Tangerine Racing in 2016. they also repaire the fender lips that were bent and damaged and massaged the rear fenders out to get room for the 7" fuchs. Now those will be smoothed out the rest of the way.
and a proper match of L99k copper metallic ( goimg with the PPG - thanks for advice on this from Bill Dunster!

will document this for fun and future reference-
car is original matching numbers 2.0 with appearance group car- but i decided this week
since i have 5 lug etc im goimg to back date the bumpers- none of this ruins originality as far as it cant be undone- i thint it will look better too
so here we go!!!

I'm glad you are getting the paint done. This car will look fantastic with a new coat of the very rare one year only Copper metallic!

That car looks great right now even with the primered fenders. After paint it will be fantastic. Nice job. Doing it right.

Nice! Seems like yesterday you sent it to Chris...

Are you going delete the side bulbs ??

i knownits been over a year since i got it back from chris- went to last 2 Okteenerfest with it like this. I will not delete the side markers, i would like to make some someday that are more flush but will stay.

does anyone have a number for how high up i need to get car to get motor down and out? i have the motor lift plate from Tangerine.
and other than the jack donought where else can i put jack stands? they dont sit well on those jack points - wish the jack stands had a round support point to match up on there.

found this- so i guess the rear foor pan at the fire wall or the side where the outer long seam is ?

hell hole is full of junk - but no rust!

this is a pleasant suprise, no rust but huge chunks of seam sealer i thought was caulk someone put in but it wasnt.
This car came to Dublin, Ohio first, but the Marine i bought it from had it in 29 Palms CA so that may have saved its life but really amazed with all the hell hole rust ive seennin other cars here in past 10 years i really cant believe my luck. yea i repaired long and jack point rust but wow it could have been way worse! - I paid $2500 for a not running car 8 years ago and didnt know what a hell hole was or what a long was either!

Owner 1- Philip DeVore , October 24 1975
LAST owner Philip W. ! that is appropriate

Love that color

Congratulations on moving your car along to paint. That is a very exciting process and seeing the end result will be worth all of the work. Cheers.

Exciting! Am a bit envious as I’d love to repaint mine. Looking forward to updates on your progress.

the color has grown on me for sure,
Yesterday i went over to a local guys storage shop , he has a few 911's and a 914 he is rehabbing, and needs to repair the trunk hinge ,
i have an extra JWest set , made a little trade for a rocker panel and a front window!,
anyway while there i saw another rare color- an original '72 911 Gold Metallic- beautiful! its in reassembly now- sorry no picture- does anyone know if any 911 were ever ordred in this Copper metallic? never seen one-

So I also will be doing a clean up if the motor- the car runs great, but i get an occasional buck ive got all new tin , going to get the air cleaner re powder coated and the intake runners- i'd also like to get the Triad exhaust jet hot coated too- new steal rocker panels, etc so a few other side projects- i will have a couple months to put some of this together- will be searching for a few parts--

a few years ago i had to re-do all the brakes- m.c. , brake lines and callipers- so while at it that winter i did the front a rear suspension- all new bushings, bearings, shocks and springs , rear control arm pivot shafts and bushings- newly powdercoated a-arms and trailing arms from bruce stone - I actualy have a list of about 2 pages of whats been done already- so really there isnt much left to do but paint- interior was done as well -- I guess i kind of did this all backwards! well difference being ive been driving snd enjoying the car. what i ddint want is to have it on blocks for years. even now i was not going to give the csr to someone who was not going to have id done for a year. thats partly why i waited so long or it took so long to find someone that could get it done in a timely fashion.
at soem point at the end i will post all the contributors from this site and others i have had both parts and services. Thats going to be a long list!

Now-
back to work!

Good luck Philip. Subscribed.

For old times sake.............paint the 'fridge' coppertone too

27 inches, rear fender to ground, I don't have a rear valance.

I used this EZ Car lift, the car spent 3 years up and down on this lift, I bought the wheel set so I could move it around.


Click to view attachment


Portable easy to move and store.

when i pulled the engine on my 4, i jacked up the car and slid an old set of car ramps under the rear wheels. They are probably only 12-18" high but with the rear tires sitting on the ramps, there was plenty of room to drop the engine. I did not have a rear valence on the car.

I wish I had used a tangerine lift adapter. I used one at Zach's house for his car and it makes it easy. Worth every penny even if you only use it a couple times.

so last night I did a dry run fit to see if jack goes up high enough- check! it goes up 25" , but the jack plate where the tuna can goes is a bit tight- I have the deep one and it was hard to get it lined up properly and slipped over the deep tuna can sump so I might remove that ( guess im doing another oil change). also I have plenty of leaks here and there, possibly the stock oil cooler and a few of the push rod tubes- I did new tubes and seals back when I did all my suspension and brakes a few years ago, same time I pulled the transmission and rebuilt it at an EVIL clinic, I also did the clutch pressure plate and flywheel and RMS at that time - I can happily report that the transmission and RMS are leak free still- so glad I don't have to go down that road. - I also hesitate to do much with anything else since the compression # were good- all 4 @ 135-140 when checked by CFR- chris said no reason to do anything there, leak down was good too., so makes me thing that this car with 153,000 miles must have had some type of refresh done at some point but I have no record of it ---
for now plan is just take care of some of the leaks, then I already have brand new repowdercoated tin, intakes and air box so top end will be nice and clean. I will put no Alt belt on it while there too- ive been running what ever was there when I go it 8 years ago . - also I need to source the SS fuel lines - now will be the time- I didn't have any leaks, plastic lines are supple not brittle so I left it alone- didn't want to put it up just to do that when it didn't seem necessary.

Also coming out is the fresh air box since tank is coming out too, that has never worked so now I can get one that works in there (unless someone suddenly comes up whith and AC box that will fiit there).

hope to have motor out tomorrow night- will see - going to pull the rear valance just to get a few more inches but I think I[m good- it has to come off anyway though.

using the bracket from tangerine - it went well except it appears the motor mounts have never been changed and the engine bar mount bolt on one side snapped due to being rusted in the bar - iv not removed a motor but i see here that my motor mounta were not attached to he motor- just resting on the rubber mounts- crazy wndwr how long those have been in this condition?

and out-

i dont normally do pictures of myself , thought it might be appropriate to document - my friend Jim came over and helped out - went a lot easier with an extra hand! he still doesnt have a 914 but has a background as a aricraft mechanic very helpful

how does one remove the rear bumper cover?

also need a better picture of how the bar is supposed to attach to the motor and necessary hardware

BUB come off with two bolts each. Disconnect and remove the fog lights and plate lights. Look about 18" off each bumper corner and you will find bolts. I think they are 17 or 19 mm. Pull the corner bumper flaps on each end. Pull straight out.

thata the front but what about the rear, same?

also i have the window trim off - completely loose , so easy to remove only thing holding it in place was the chrome trim

interior partly out

one small sopt of rust thru on the targa area on right side,
any advice here for my guy when he fixes that? should spray the inside with rust reformer and some type if epoxy primer?

rear window out, no rust surprises here , pretty clean on drivers side-
hey Bob, going to need that drivers door soon!

The sails had foam so they rust from the inside out. You need to cut back to solid metal, remove the foam, epoxy or etch prime, weld new metal and then prep and prime.

I would remove all the paint from the intersection of the sail panel and rear fender. Many times the paint just hides the rust.

i agree.
plan is to sand all the second coat of paint(respray) and the original paint down to primer unless rust is found

more good news!! window is out , no rust under seal-

Lookin' good Phil! Looks like you are doing this right.

Perry,
i've been encouraged by finding less rust than expected. its amazing that this is the original glass. i am looking forward to the color being returned to what it is supposed to be- i was originally just going todo only outside panels but its not thst much work to clean it up and strip it down enought for them to do the trunk and rear firewall, engine compartment while we are at it- for a car that was originally from Dublin Ohio, its amazing the hell hole and engine shelf and rear fire wall are as clean as they are. When i saw how bad the rust was in the jack points and rear longs i almost didnt do it- almost scrapped it - glad i didnt!

just a reminder of some of the challenges along the way- rear floor , jack points and rear outer longs were swiss cheese thanks to the Ohio winters i believe

So you didn't need my special adapter with your new jack?

Nope, - the jack I bought worked fine, just pulled the round jack plate off, and put yours on it the peg on the bottom of yours fit perfectly, same size so no nneed for the adaptor. - - btw at some point id like to get the adaptor you make for the side jack point in the long if you still make them.

Thanks for sending that down so quickly it made the job much easier, I had help to balance the drivetrain just in case but could have done it myself if I had to.

going to get with you about the SS fuel lines next- I will install once car comes back from paint.

Phil,
Was good seeing you Saturday! Thank you for bringing my Okteenerfest swag.

Hope you enjoyed your rides in the 911s!

Guys, I don't have a picture to post - but car was stripped down to the bare except for my dash which was new and installed last year- , I took the car to storage of my new body paint guy- Mike on Saturday- a short 90 minute drive up from beaufort/bluffton . Mike has done work for a few other guys int he area, including billh, and I am confident he is up to the task.

While there I met up with Bill to give him his swag from theOkteenerfest that he missed due to the flooding from the hurricane- so he treated me to a couple drive in some other aircool rides tail-draggers but very cool- Bill - thanks for the awesome rides and I look forward to you having a 914 actually running soon!!!

while cleaning out the wheel wells I found a rust thru spot on passenger side front behind bumper and that will have to be patched, the other was drivers side wheel well but inside the back of front wheel well, at the bottom- Mike says no problem, all will be cleaned out they will be cleaning out all the undercoating out of wheel wells and off the bottom of the car, and all rust spots cut out, cleaned patched and sealed properly!!!

I now have a decision to make- I'm still on the fence for doing bumper back dating- now is the time to do it or never look back , to modify the front now would be best so it gets primed sealed and painted, later would be bad to cut and grind off parts newly painted- so should I or shouldn't I ?? I really would like to do this, I think early bumpers look way better. , lighter etc. even just to do the fiberglass for now and SS later, ( probably cant afford it- )

I'd like some input from the peanut gallery - back date nor not!??

- new parts I need to get:
*new rocker panels- probably RD
* new carpet-
* new side marker lights
* I also need new bright parts- chrome trim for the rear targa sail panels

* new a-pillar and side pillar interior trims needed with front top edg trim that goes under the visors, and rear targa bar trim that goes across inside top edge of targa bar. - has anyone had thse recovered?? I know Mark might eventually but this would really be awesome as Ive already done my seats and dash

- I will also be installing new gauge set I have from Tim, LED etc, inside will be SWEET!
will spend the next few months getting motor cleaned up and sorted out- I have to reseal , replace oil cooler seals, I already have allnew tin, and I have parts coming from Bruce Stone , - I might send the TB out to rebuild,
This car has 150k miles on it just turned over on the Okteenerfest trip- so at some point the motor must have had work done because the leak down and compression numbers are very good. - no need to dig into that, just a freshing up of the cosmetics on top side.

any advice about "while I am in there"?

Thanks!
will post pictures as they start sanding down and repairing stuff, then its prime, block paint -- 3 coats of base and 3 coats of clear , PPG L99K, Copper Metallic!

If you think the early bumpers look way better, do the backdate. Its your money and you are the only one that matters when it comes to your car.

But I would suggest finding some steel ones. Fiberglass usually takes so much bodywork to fit and look right that its not a cheap way to go and a tap will crack or brake it.

Bill suggested the same thing, so I am looking now - some decent painted steel ones would be fine, but I am sure I will eventually go with chrome or SS ones. Just cant afford that will all the other stuff that I have to get- like new rocker panels getting ordered from RD right now.

Does the stock front valence stay on under there even if I put steel back dated bumpers on and put LE type valence?

also I found that pelican has some of the chrome trim pieces in stock fro the roll bar and all the parts for front window! I am going to check with dealer since we get a nice discount for PCA member and see how prices compare.

-

Hi Phillip,

I think you will be very happy with the early bumpers, painted or chrome. You will not regret the early bumper swap.

If you do the LE front valance, the stock valance is removed first. I like both looks. I have a modified stock valance for the front (oil cooler opening) of my Six but on my last six had the LE front valance.

Good luck and enjoy the process.

Cheers,
Michael

will be looking for bumpers to back date with - unfortunately I was not able to get a set of the bumper tops on the black Friday sale on 914rubber.com - go LOTS of other parts but just could never seem to be able to get those when restocked!!
so I will wait for another sale, and keep looking for some bumpers - cant afford the SS ones at this time, so maybe some fiberglass bumpers for now? so many things to consider- the fog lights for one thing and the grills as well, not cheap or easy - so I will be listing my barely used NOS late fog lights - never mounted before I put them on 6 months ago, will be listed for sale along with my very clean and good/great condition late rubber bumper covers, with shocks etc.
-Phil

Congrats on your decision to back date your bumpers, best mod you can make on a 75/76 914.

Really !!!!
I counted 15......

Backdate now, you'll be so glad you did.