Thoughts, experiences, frequency of use, etc. If you have pictures of your set-up in general; decisions you wish you had made; decisions you were thankful you DID make - all would be helpful! I have plenty of ceiling height; do I need to spend big bucks for infrequent use (mostly as a storage device)? The lift will need to be functional for teener engine drops...suffice to say, it has to be a two-post.

Tony

My house had a 2 post installed when I bought it. Max height is around 5 1/2' so at 6' tall I can't quite stand up straight underneath.

I really like having a lift but the biggest problem is that it is not low profile. I can't get the jacking arms low enough to fit under my 996

May require approach boards/ramps. The Rotary I have screws down pretty tight but if a car is too low it does require assistance from the aforementioned.

This subject has been covered many times in this forum. Most of the time people want a portable jacking system. They are more expensive and some only raise a couple of feet.

You are smart wanting a 2 post, especially for P cars and air cooled VW's. I have an Atlas brand lift from Greg Smith Equipment. It's the least expensive they have and also the the lowest clearance. My ceilings are 10 1/2 feet. I can lift the 914 and be able to walk under it (I'm 6'2"). Can't stand under a Beetle though. I paid $1445.00, no shipping, no sales tax because I picked it up at the Delaware warehouse. We actually picked up two lifts using a car trailer.

It took 2 3/4 hours to install with the help of a couple of friends. The second one took about 2 hours. I hired an electrician to wire in 220 volts.

The model is a BP 8000, 8000 lb. lift.

I've had it for several years and have changed 2 clutches, 2 complete brake jobs and tie rods. I've made my money back already, plus it gives to extra car storage.

Dave

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You can read about my lift saga here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...370&hl=lift

I will say this, decide what you want the lifts for, storage or car work. If it's storage get ones like mine, if it's car work, get the two post ones with moveable arms. Both do their job well, but don't work well for the other.

We often have to jack up a low car to slide the arm in and then use some spacers under the pad so it doesn't hit the rockers.

MaxJax, it isn't a full rise but gets the job done. I roll around underneath using a chair on wheels

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Tony, I have a 4 poster . I didn't get it from Greg Smith but they have a store in Norcross. I like the 4 poster because it does not have to be secured to the deck and I think transmits less weight to each foot. I was not sure of the thickness of my floor. I use it mostly for storage but have done almost every kind of work on it. AL

Put it in a convenient spot with enough room around it to work on each side - if possible.
pad the edges so when the door swings open, it wont matter.

What Mark said. On both items. I have a box of 3*3 MDX pieces to use a spacers.
I have a 10K Bend Pak Asymmetrical as a primary.
We're planning on a 7k and 2 4 posts in the next upgrade.

Guys: I also would like to lift my 8500 lb truck as well. Sorry for the omission. So I would like to lift a Sportsracer to a one-ton Ram...

I bought the Atlas 4 post from Greg Smith because the garage slab had a slight slope which made a 2 post unusable. Have to use a 10" high ramp to access the top level, but it has worked well for about 5 yrs. and the only problem is shuffling cars to get the right car up for maintenance! Lifts do make great storage multipliers for my 914 and Cayman.

I realize this conclusion has many flaws but I am leaning toward a Rotary; cautiously looking at the Revolution (Chinese version) line; but would really like to have a MoHawk. If Rotary's are good enough for Goldcrest with +10 Cup cars on hand...they should cut the mustard for a teener. Now to find a reasonable deal...

Tony

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by spacers, i meant the metal donuts that come with the lift that lift the pad higher than the arm.

I bought a BEND-PAC years ago. Total price delivered to Olympia, including Electrial and 5-gal oil, was $2500.00 new.
no need for thicken slab. You'll gain alot of new friendsClick to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

What are the concrete requirements for that lift?
Thanks

Also, take a look at"lift cable broke" on the next page. creepy

You can do more using a 2 post. 4 post is better for storing a car. How would you do a brake job using a 4 post and all wheels are under load? I made the mistake of getting a lift with cables and a hose on the floor (it has a cover / ramp). This gets in the way a lot more than I like. Think moving a transmission jack from front to rear.

mine (and I'm sure most all well-made lifts) have a built-in fail safe ratchet-stop system.

+1 to rolling chair under the car.

I can actually squeeze my 914 and X5 (or 996) in the same garage with one car on the lift and one slightly underneath. It's not ideal for storage, but I don't plan to "store" any of my cars

You can buy a jack setup for 4 post lifts so you can remove the tires. One nice thing with a 4-post lift is the tray to catch oil if it drips. Not like our car ever drip. You see the custom cardboard drip stopper on the 2 post lifts someone did. I guess it works.

Bob B
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I have a Greg Smith 4 post with two rolling Jack's so I can have all 4 wheels in the air at once. Very happy with it. Yes, it has safety stops and whenever I lift I then lower it to a safety lock as you should.

2 post is more flexible but harder to install. I've heard you want articulating arms.

I have the two post Atlas lift as well and it's definitely one of the best things I've ever purchased. ZERO regrets. Everything becomes so much easier. And you have complete access to 99% of the car with a two post over four.

My dad had a 2 post and my uncle had a 4 post. The 2 post was much better as a tool, the 4 post is better at storage. Im looking at a 4 post for my house.

I'm lucky to have a shop behind the house. I built it with 2 lifts in mind. The two post for mostly work although it is used for storage as well. I can fit a 911 under the car above when needed. I get the 996 on by driving onto some plywood pieces I cut out. Only takes 1/2 inch of lift to get the arms under it. Pulling the brakes off of the race car for rebuilding and will be pulling the engine in the next couple of weeks. I bought mine locally and had them do the install.

Now some folks are simply showing off!

Very nice indeed and it appears you are proving the saying true...hobbyists will grow to capacity!

What formula chassis is laying there unloved?

Tony

Since the truck is part of the equation, a name brand lift like Rotary is the best way to go, made in the US preferably.

You can see why here

A good quality second hand lift is better than a cheap new one IMHO.

I have a 4 post 9k Bend-pak with a rolling hydraulic jack and a jack support that I can use if I need to have all 4 wheels off at the same time. I needed storage which is why I went with 4 post. i usually keep a car on it along with all the other junk I need out of my way. I can do engine drops with it as well.

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So very true, I have grown into this place and in some ways outgrown it! :-)

That is a 1969 RCA FV. It's not as bad off as the picture. I sold my very nice Zink last summer and will put this one back together sometime this year.

Pretty cool LITTLE cars! My feet would be 3-feet beyond the pedals!

Tony

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I have a 4 post lift mostly because I needed to lift an 8000 lb diesel pickup. A two post would require 8-12” concrete floor to safely support, and I’d still feel odd about working under a heavy truck with a two post. I can get by with 6” floors with rebar reinforcement.

I got a rolling jack to lift the cars up for brakes and tires. You can get two or just use the bottle jacks to hold up one side. The jacks are air powered and you need a compressor, same for the safety locks for the lift. Much more stable for storage. If storage and heavy lifting capacity were not considerations I would opt for a 2 post.

Bendpak seemed like the value choice. Rotary was nice but more spendy. I don’t use the lift enough to warrant the extra spend.

I am 6'1" and fit just fine :-)

since the thread is jacked...added storage

Simple. you raise the car on the 4 post
slide two heavy 2"x2"x7' steel square tubes under the car frame with wooden blocking under both ends of the tubes.
Lower the 4 post
your car is suspended in the air.

I agree that a 2 post is more convenient if dropping an engine frequently.
Or working on suspension/brake bits.
But dropping an engine can be done with a 4 post if you are careful and safe.

I have learned the uses of my 4 post are only limited by my imagination...

Back my pick-up bed under it to unload a motor.
Split a Tractor to change out the torque tube.
Work on other stuff- tractors, zero turns, etc.
Store all sort of stuff on it- lawnmowers, welder, boxes of parts etc...

Changing an engine...I put some jackstands under the car before getting underneath it...

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If you have the ceiling, two post is a must for service/engine removal. I did not.....my BenPack scissors lift is the next best thing. Perfect for 914's and 911. Car storage is a different story. Best, MarkClick to view attachment

4" minimum - no rebar

Dave

What makes a 4 post more difficult to drop an engine?

LOL! Yikes! How did you attach the drops to the 4x4 posts? Thanks and a thumbs up for creativity!

Tony

The challenge would be the restricted access to everything under the tread plates and potential interference with the same (engine mount bar, etc.) I need a little over 48" of open space between runners to make it feasible with a 4 post.

T

Space between the tracks makes it more difficult to drop the engine etc but rolling jacks do help with servicing on a 4 post. I have a 4 post in AZ. I do some servicing but it mainly allows me more storage at home.

My son has a 2 post in IA- I couldn't put that in at AZ because the floor had pre-tension rods and you can't drill into it.

As stated, 2 post is much better for servicing etc.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I didn’t have a high enough ceiling for a two or four post lift, and didn’t want to dig up the garage floor, so I chose a scissor lift with ramps that can be easily moved to drive a car on. The lift is mobile as well if desired. Click to view attachment

This garage is WAY to neat. Please dump some oil or something to make me feel at home!

Dave

Looks like you could get 1 inche of clearance on these lifts. Tight but it would work.

I have to park my 914 or Carrera back wards with the top off and windows down so it will fit a beam that holds up 2 of my bedrooms on the second floor that runs 90 degrees to the car. What me worry?

Bob B

Atlas® RJ-45:

Measurement A must be between 35" - 51"
Measurement B must be 1 ½" or wider
Measurement C must be between 1" and 1 ¾"

Atlas® RJ-6000:

Measurement A must be between 32"-52"
Measurement B must be 1 1/8" or wider
Measurement C must be at least ¾"

Atlas® RJ-6:

Measurement A must be between 32"-48"
Measurement B must be 1 1/8" or wider
Measurement C must be at least ¾"

Atlas® RJ-7000:

Measurement A must be between 32"-52"
Measurement B must be 1 1/8" or wider
Measurement C must be at least ¾"Click to view attachment

I also use my lift to raise the 914 to a comfortable work height. My back loves me for it. Why bend over to work when you can bring it up to an acceptable height ?