So I bought a stock 15mm bar that I have no mounting hardware for it. So instead of spending the $50 to $150 in parts plus shipping for it all I'd just make my own stuff with all the cr@p I have at home. A few hours here and there aren't that big of deal.


Using pictures Ive found on-line I have a 90+% of the correct spacing of the arms and links.

If starting from scratch for the arm any reason to make spacing the same or think it'll be noticeable if I made the mounting point for the links an inch shorter or inch longer (for stiffer or looser bar correct?)

Street car, no major mods engine or suspension wise.

I would make sway bar arm length so links are vertical (or very slightly tilting forward), when sway bar arms are horizontal.

also use spherical rod ends on at least one side of the sway bar, so you can adjust sway bar to neutral torsion with at least 100 lbs in the driver seat. Ideally both sides should have adjustable length links to adjust the arms horizontal with at least 100 lbs in driver seat.

The 100 lbs is for a street car that may have passengers. For auto-cross use your full weight in the driver seat when adjusting the sway bar.

As to the question of shorter/longer, it may not make sense to deviate too much. Shorter in particular could be problematic because it would cause a lot of swaybar rotation for smaller suspension travel. And if you make the droplink attachment too close to the bar's centerline, you could wind up with the swaybar limiting suspension travel (when it rotates to the point when the droplink radius arm is vertical), which would of course be bad for handling and maybe even break the swaybar and/or droplinks.

Longer could be of some value. One think to check if you try this is to make sure the droplinks don't wind up at a severe angle, and check for binding in particular (you'd want to check through the entire suspension travel). Either of those situations would put a lot of stress on the parts, or even break them.

My .02

Scott