What to do to protect a transmission case after cleaning has been a recurring topic over the years. Originally the transmission were covered with a 'cosmoline' like product which is a mix of wax and oil to protect the metal from corrosion. These products are still available and some people are recoating trans cases with this stuff to good success.

But that coating remains sticky/tacky over time. I don't like that. So I've been trying to go the epoxy primer route. These primers form a chemically hardened coating that'll last for years, isn't sticky, and looks great.

This blend of epoxy primer I used on the latest 915 transmission build is pretty much perfect color match and what I'm calling Magnesium Grey. The idea was to coat the case with something that essentially looks as close as possible to bare, oxidized magnesium.

The only problem with it, is that they can't mix anything less than a gallon.

So anybody need their transmission case painted? I'd love to run through this gallon ASAP.

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This is the previous attempt that I was unhappy with.

Here's a picture of my last attempt for a 901 build, using a different mix of primer. It still looks great, but was far too 'blue' to look like bare metal. So I went back to the drawing board and tried a different brand and mix of epoxy primer.

how much does it take to do one transmission? can you put it in an arisol can or can it be brushed on? I ask because my motor is out and cleaned up having degreased it before re-install but still attached to motor, and I really don't want to pull it apart -
so send it my way , let me know how much for say a pint or what it will take you think to do this -

Phil
-ps, got that part you sent my way, thanks,

I'd be thrilled if my installed transmission would have looked like that before we put it in.

That looks killer.

I don't have the means to put it in an aerosol. I could get it broken down into smaller quantities. But you'll need something to spray it, like the Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun.

Good! I forgot to send the tracking number. Keep us posted on how your experience is with them.

I would look at Cericote. the right color will look closer to stock. it doesn't have the smooth, shiny look of epoxy but is very scratch and chip resistant.

might have to pull the exhaust off I guess, should be able to tape off and cover motor to spray the transmission-

Lately I was talking to a friend who has a Phd in material science.

The topic of heat dissipation materials and coatings came up.

There are some new coatings that have some very interesting entropic heat dissipative properties. Some of them have heat deposition applications and some are like power coating. I know they have been using the heat dissapative or entropic black on mortorcycle cylinders for some time.

....just a side comment.

No where as good as any of the previous options but I have had good success with Dupli-Color EHWP10107 Silver High Performance Wheel Paint.

Not sure that this the exact color I was using but I will verify.

Not a great picture but I used it on the impeller housing.

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Well, you do have my 915, so if you need to get rid of all that paint, just throw some on there.

That's a great idea.

Mark, How did you clean the tranny case before spraying?

Degrease, wire brush, blast, etc.? After all the prep I would hate to see the paint or coating peel off.

There is another thread on cleaning the trans while assembled. I think your choices are more limited when it is assembled. For me, I would never blast unless it was a soft media (walnut shells) and even then, I am leery of removing all abrasive from an environment where residual abrasive can result is massive damage.

For an assembled case some pressure wash but I have never been a fan of that. For me, I set the trans in front of an electric heater for many hours and get it warm. Next use degreaser of choice. Me I like Awesome available at Dollar General stores. Dirt cheap and works. From here it takes some elbow grease. I got a large coarse plastic bristle brush for my drill and used it. Rinse with light spray of water.

Reapply cleaner and repeat until satisfied.

After that I use a fine brass bristle brush for the drill to clean off any difficult materials and to go over the whole case. Make sure you get all brass brush not just brass coated steel wire.

As an example here is an engine case I did with the brass brush.

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No Paint at all!

Of course there are many more difficult spots to clean on the trans than the case so getting it to this point would take a long time. So I would likely do the clean and then paint. I do a final rinse with a mild solvent like alcohol or acetone.

Mike, that works great for the aluminum engine case, but the magnesium transmission case will corrode more quickly, so protection is a bit more important. I feel no motivation or necessity to start painting engine cases.

But transmission cases make me a bit nervous to leave bare.


BTW, that engine looks like it's got 911 cylinders...or maybe Biral....

Might have a little something in that department.

Agree on the trans painting. The brass brush just makes it hard to do any damage to either of the cases.

I have brushed epoxy on tractor cases for years. Works really well on rough surfaces. No signs of cracking overtime. Needs to be mixed with thinner and hardener. Flows very well.

Why not spray it with LPS 3? It is a spray on type waxed coating. Not cheap at $18 a can but it should do the whole transmission. I would think the resistance should be similar to that of the cosomline or perhaps better.

Because after I did that I wouldn't ever want to touch it again. Sticky and oily is my experience with those coatings. Especially on hot days. I spend a lot of time trying to get things clean, and a wax/oil coating (while extremely effective for corrosion protection) is not what I call a clean finished product.

Nothing against it. It works great. It's just not something I want to deal with.

But I should try it and see. I'll order a can and make sure it's what I think it is... Thanks for the lead.

I've used Gibbs Brand spray lube on all the metal surfaces including the 6 fan and housing and really like the natural finish.

http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/

-Harry

Ordered. Will update on Thurs. When it arrives.

Never seen this or used it. But I have concerns that they only identify approximately 70% of the ingredients on the SDS. Also this is very flammable and the permissible exposure to the chemical listed are pretty low. So something that should be used with caution.

Of course WD-40's identification of chemicals is just as poor.

I used Gibbs on a bunch of parts on my six engine and trans. It not epoxy or even close but does a nice job of letting the natural look come through.

Fluid film is an option to..

I think I will cerakote my trans when the time comes.

Beadblasted, vaporblasted and then sprayed down with acf-50. Now I have to learn how to put it together.

Main goodness with a confluent hard coating like epoxy is that unless you heat the trans in an oven, the porous metal will have petroleum retained that will off gas, seep, etc. The epoxy acts like a hard shell. Ive never really had issue with any method I tried, but I don't have a set up to clean the cases so I just don't. In the future, I plan to do vapor/sonic once life settles down and I invest even more into my business since it is now helping cover living expenses and not a hobby. Cool write up and I look forward to more data.

BTW, I have had many swear by Gibbs as the closest to stock and longer lasting. The Tectyl was OE and wore off shortly. Kind of silly.

I wondered about this. I have a can of Tecyl that I planned to coat mine with, but wondered how long it would last.

Available in quarts on Amazon if anyone is curious: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUY8PY...=UTF8&psc=1

Only problem with these is they remain soluble in organic solvents (gas and oil) and are susceptible to removal by hot water.

Not sure how long term they are in a dynamic environment. Mainly designed for protection in long term storage.

I had always been told that the cosmoline coating the factory sprayed on, was only intended to provide protection from the salt air/corrosive environment while the vehicles were shipped overseas and that vehicles staying in Europe were not even sprayed with it.

Just stuff I was told many years ago at the dealerships I worked for.

Jim

10 years a bought a case of Gibbs. I had a very pickled case on number 41 and after cleaning it and sanding a piece of it to see shat it would like like I sprayed the trans with the Gibbs. Just sitting there for 5 years it all looked the same as before I shined up that small area. I even bought a NOS case from George that turned to have a spun bearing area. Different story. This is a Gibbs story. Use it on my roil up doors

Still have 2 full cans.

Bob B
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I'm pretty sure that's right. From what I've read, Tectyl is what the cases were coated with. It seems a little thicker and waxier (if that makes sense) than cosmoline, but similar. But it remains soft and waxy after it dries (like cosmoline) so I don't see it standing up long against road debris and suspect it would melt off with heat. I bought it after pulling my restoration project out of hibernation and being shocked at what my once shiny, but unprotected engine case looked like after indoor storage for 30 years. I spiffed the case back up as best I could and dabbed the Tectyl on with a foam brush. Looks kind of cool but I doubt it will last long after the car is back on the road.

My Trans cleaned and ready to go!

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mike, what did you paint it with? is that an epoxy? if so what brand?

Phil

While I love the epoxy paints I dislike the shiny look they give on the trans case. I used aluminum Very High Temperature VHT paint from your local Flaps.

A aluminum color caliper paint works well also. Both seem to have good adhesion and durability. Nothing like the epoxy but I just like the look better.

I think that is what I used last time , warning though, I got brake cleaner on it and the VHT dissolved so I just used it to clean degrease and took a lot of it off, - now I have to start over. soapy water with dawn usually works fine - I had CV axle grease all over since the CV flange had 6 openings not the 4 and the extra holes didn't get plugged- what a mess that was!

Ive used Hammerite spray paint in the past. Its tough, has the right texture, is made for lawn equipment, cheap. If you have a garage queen, go with epoxy. If you want it to just not corrode and be safe until it forms a good layer of road grime to protect it, spray paint is fine.

UGH. I have a set of 6-hole boots that I epoxied plated onver the 2 unheeded holes if you need them.

Will have to try the brake cleaner as I had not experienced that in the past.

I have 2 NOS boots with 4 hole I got from 914sixer how hard is it to pull the CV and put new boot and flange on? - btw I bought these brand new from Tangernine a few years ago when I rebuilt the transmission, so the CV and shafts etc were brand new. I guess it would be easier to make some type of permanent plug than to pull the CV joint out/off and reboot them?

You have to take the CV offthe shaft. No too hard. I always replace the clips as well.

Can send all of it to you if you need it. Can get picture tonight.