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DickSteinkamp
I need to replace the right side Bracket for Hinge Pillar (914 501 030 10)

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It would be much easier if I could remove the right side Lateral Grill (914 504 012 10)

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How is it fastened in?

Thanks!
Larmo63
It has little pins, usually speed nuts on them.
rgalla9146
Is your engine in or out ? It is much easier to do both jobs with the engine out. sad.gif
Make sure you get that hinge base positioned accurately.
TravisNeff
QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Dec 5 2018, 07:02 PM) *

Is your engine in or out ? It is much easier to do both jobs with the engine out. sad.gif
Make sure you get that hinge base positioned accurately.


I agree much easier with the engine out. You would have luck on your side to be able to get it into position and weld it upside down and backwards. I am not that lucky.
DickSteinkamp
Thanks! I think I can do it with the engine in if I remove that lateral grill. If it still looks too tough, I'll pull the engine. I did put a V8 in this one so there is some room up the side of the engine for access to it.

I assume the little speed nuts turn off like a nut...or do they push on/pull off?

Thanks again.
dr914@autoatlanta.com
it is easy if you know how to weld and have mcmark's tool. We make the parts and have the precise instructions and placement template in the 914 "tech tips 700" book


QUOTE(DickSteinkamp @ Dec 5 2018, 05:26 PM) *

I need to replace the right side Bracket for Hinge Pillar (914 501 030 10)

IPB Image

It would be much easier if I could remove the right side Lateral Grill (914 504 012 10)

IPB Image

How is it fastened in?

Thanks!

DickSteinkamp
Thanks, George. I did get the bracket from you. I should have ordered the tech tips at the same time. sad.gif
Costa05
QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Dec 5 2018, 09:02 PM) *

Is your engine in or out ? It is much easier to do both jobs with the engine out. sad.gif
Make sure you get that hinge base positioned accurately.


agree.gif
FWIW the way I addressed correct position was to place the trink lid exactly where you want it (observing body line gaps and aligment to rear of car ), attach hinges, shoulder bolt, brackets on engine bay side, then climb inside engine bay and tack weld the two brackets to the body. Remove it all and finish welding in the brackets. Worked pretty well for me.
bbrock
QUOTE(Costa05 @ Dec 6 2018, 10:05 AM) *

QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Dec 5 2018, 09:02 PM) *

Is your engine in or out ? It is much easier to do both jobs with the engine out. sad.gif
Make sure you get that hinge base positioned accurately.


agree.gif
FWIW the way I addressed correct position was to place the trink lid exactly where you want it (observing body line gaps and aligment to rear of car ), attach hinges, shoulder bolt, brackets on engine bay side, then climb inside engine bay and tack weld the two brackets to the body. Remove it all and finish welding in the brackets. Worked pretty well for me.


agree.gif +1 That's exactly what I did even with the Tech Tips diagram and instructions in hand.

BTW, those speed nuts are not a treat to remove. Best way I found was to squeeze them with pliers until they bend which opens the hole around the post so they slide off. Also not a task I'd want to do with the engine in.

Good luck! beerchug.gif
DickSteinkamp
Mission accomplished.

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We removed the Lateral Grill, the deck lid, the battery, and the old bracket. We drilled holes in the new bracket where we would plug weld it eventually. We attached the new bracket with sheet metal screws using the outline of where the old bracket was and remounted the deck lid. The deck lid was just a hair long, so we removed it again, repositioned the bracket and remounted the lid. It was then spot on. We removed the lid again and welded the bracket.

It helped that the deck lid, lateral grill and battery were out. It especially helped that my partner in crime is a MUCH better welder than I am. biggrin.gif
bbrock
My hat is off to you. Well done. I know I couldn't have pulled that off.
DickSteinkamp
BTW, Thanks, Brent, for your hint on removing the speed nuts. beerchug.gif
Olympic 914
QUOTE(bbrock @ Dec 12 2018, 08:46 PM) *

My hat is off to you. Well done. I know I couldn't have pulled that off.


agree.gif

Good job..

I just pulled my engine in preparation of doing the same repair.

And I'm sure there will be a couple, While I'm in there, things


IronHillRestorations
FWIW, I usually add welds to the back side on the nut insert. I've gotten a spinner on that before.
TravisNeff
Definitely weld the nut to the back. That is a great job you did!!
dr914@autoatlanta.com
very nice, we have seen, over the years, a lot of butchery done replacing the trunk hinge bracket; glopped welds, riveted on, misplaced causing the trunk lid to be out of alignment, burnt specifications sticker, poor painting, holes burned into the inner fender wells, home made brackets, the list goes on...
QUOTE(DickSteinkamp @ Dec 12 2018, 06:39 PM) *

Mission accomplished.

IPB Image

IPB Image

We removed the Lateral Grill, the deck lid, the battery, and the old bracket. We drilled holes in the new bracket where we would plug weld it eventually. We attached the new bracket with sheet metal screws using the outline of where the old bracket was and remounted the deck lid. The deck lid was just a hair long, so we removed it again, repositioned the bracket and remounted the lid. It was then spot on. We removed the lid again and welded the bracket.

It helped that the deck lid, lateral grill and battery were out. It especially helped that my partner in crime is a MUCH better welder than I am. biggrin.gif
dr914@autoatlanta.com
some of the butcheryClick to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment[attachmentid=678
721]Click to view attachment
dr914@autoatlanta.com
one more:Click to view attachment
Olympic 914
QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Dec 13 2018, 10:03 AM) *

FWIW, I usually add welds to the back side on the nut insert. I've gotten a spinner on that before.


The restoration design piece has the nut insert separate and it has to be welded in from the back.
Haven't done that yet, but what are your thoughts of also putting a few welds on the outside of the insert?

BTW that RD piece is made of pretty thin stuff.. IMHO
dr914@autoatlanta.com
the factory originally welded the two together and that is how we make them, no reason to go through a double welding process


QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Dec 13 2018, 09:05 AM) *

QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Dec 13 2018, 10:03 AM) *

FWIW, I usually add welds to the back side on the nut insert. I've gotten a spinner on that before.


The restoration design piece has the nut insert separate and it has to be welded in from the back.
Haven't done that yet, but what are your thoughts of also putting a few welds on the outside of the insert?

BTW that RD piece is made of pretty thin stuff.. IMHO

DickSteinkamp
Yikes! Not pretty pictures.

I think mine was probably one of the easy ones compared to most and certainly compared to what George has pictured.

Mine is a one owner, SoCal car, no rust anywhere (hell hole, battery tray, laterals, etc). The runk opened and closed smoothly. The only indication that something was amiss was that the right front corner of the runk lid was proud by about 1/8". In looking for a way to make it right I discovered the hinge bracket somewhat bent and held on by sheet metal screws. Evidently, lubing these pivot points had been neglected. The bracket had not torn the sheet metal below it when the welds broke. I can certainly see that if the job is complicated by rust, torn metal, repairs needed to the hell hole, etc. that removing the engine is a good idea and probably essential.
IronHillRestorations
QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Dec 13 2018, 08:18 AM) *

the factory originally welded the two together and that is how we make them, no reason to go through a double welding process


QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Dec 13 2018, 09:05 AM) *

QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Dec 13 2018, 10:03 AM) *

FWIW, I usually add welds to the back side on the nut insert. I've gotten a spinner on that before.


The restoration design piece has the nut insert separate and it has to be welded in from the back.
Haven't done that yet, but what are your thoughts of also putting a few welds on the outside of the insert?

BTW that RD piece is made of pretty thin stuff.. IMHO



It doesn't take much time or effort to add some welds to the back, versus grinding that bracket off because the spot welds didn't hold. Your car do as you like.

I've even reinforced those with some 16 gauge, as well as doing a grease mod to the shoulder bolt.

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