buck toenges
Dec 11 2018, 01:19 PM
There is a gap between the front engine bay seal and the engine tin. The engine bay seal is new. Is this gap o.k.? Do I have to do something to make it fit better?
Click to view attachment Thanks,
Buck
dr914@autoatlanta.com
Dec 11 2018, 01:37 PM
the power plant will adjust a bit forward back and then with a new seal as well everything will fit just fine
QUOTE(buck toenges @ Dec 11 2018, 12:19 PM)
There is a gap between the front engine bay seal and the engine tin. The engine bay seal is new. Is this gap o.k.? Do I have to do something to make it fit better?
Click to view attachment Thanks,
Buck
DRPHIL914
Dec 11 2018, 01:59 PM
is it just in the front? maybe new seals like George says but yes there is some gap, you may need to just pull that seal back under the tin edge. I would get new seals if that isold and lost its pliability.
BeatNavy
Dec 11 2018, 02:30 PM
I been running the last couple of years with a similar situation. I also had a bit of a gap on one side. You can use hog pliers / clips to try to bring the seal together at the corners if adjusting the engine back and forth doesn't help (I could never really get it to fit that well).
All said and done, though, I've never had issues with head temps.
TheCabinetmaker
Dec 11 2018, 04:34 PM
I'm looking on my phone, but that seal does not look right.
rgalla9146
Dec 11 2018, 04:36 PM
Have you had any reason to remove your outer front engine mounts ?
The seals are 'J' shaped so the can reach under and be retained by the vertical
flange of the engine tin.
rhodyguy
Dec 11 2018, 05:00 PM
Did you replace all 4 of the seals? You have to work the seal 'hook' on to the tin edge.
IronHillRestorations
Dec 11 2018, 07:37 PM
The factory front and side seals are miter cut vertically on a 45* at the front, and clipped at those corners in bottom with a hog ring. The rear (twin flap) seal overlaps the side seals on each side, and has the outer flap stapled to the side seal where it overlaps.
The front and side seals should hook over the lip of the engine metal, and the rear should have one flap on each side of the rear engine metal. If the front or sides are too long it can buckle in the middle.
They also put a piece of tar or butyl caulk in the front corners of the engine shelves
Larmo63
Dec 11 2018, 08:03 PM
Are you sure you don't have the seal installed upside down?
It doesn't look right to me either.
porschetub
Dec 12 2018, 01:41 PM
No that seems to be wrong,you should have to pull the top lip of the rubber over the tin,however I have a six but the principle is the same for a good seal.
You are using the correct seal for that area ?.
ndfrigi
Dec 12 2018, 02:24 PM
for me I think the lip of the rubber seal is what I circled with red lines and it just need to snap it to the engine tin. It also seems that the engine was a little further (more gaps) back when it was installed or did you check if your engine mount bar is straight? I saw 2 mount bar that are bent towards the rear that makes a wider gap in that spot.
Click to view attachment
Rob-O
Dec 12 2018, 03:14 PM
I’m with Curt and Larmo, something looks off to me as well. Could just be the angle the picture was taken.
I’d also strongly suggest doing something where the wire bundle is coming through the engine shelf. There is a piece of rubber there (we call it a snorkel) that runs from the engine shelf down to the firewall. As it is now I’d be concerned that eventually the wires will chafe against that metal shelf.
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