Just a few basic questions:

1) Do the rubber bushings I circled need to be changed? None are cracked or damaged, but are they just spacers or do they affect how tightly the car handles?

2) Plan on replacing shocks with Bilstein shocks. Can I reuse the top hardware shown or must I acquire new parts? If so, where would one purchase said parts?

3) Is there a recommendation for a rear trailing arm rebuilder in the San Diego area? I need new rubber bushings, new bearings, and my hubs pressed back in. I know many do it themselves, but after reading some of the recent posts I'm a bit intimidated.

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I am pretty sure that you will get those bushings with the new shocks.

Nothing comes with rear shocks. Reuse everything.

Like mark said, reuse it. New shocks only include a top nut and a clip for the lower spring cup. You will need the cups that hold the springs for the Billys. Give Bdstone a ring, he usually has a pair. think they are around $60 each new.

Edit - some of the Billsteins include the lower cup, some don't but great shocks.

I am almost positive my rear koni sports came with the cups and bushings. But that was a long time ago..

usually the bushings are good, and only gas shocks are available so do not need the shock pillow, hence rear Bilstein shocks and new factory duplicate rear springs

Thanks for the information. Just a couple more questions:

1) I bought the car non-op so never really drove it. If I grab the rear wheels and try
to wiggle them they are solid. Should I just leave the original bearings alone or is it still recommended to swap for new bearings since I have the arms out?

2) Which ones are the shock pillows?

3) Is Elephant Racing the only option for rubber bushings? They're the only one I can find.

Here's a video which covers what gets reused...with a coilover setup anyway!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCEl24tNEfo&t=75s

I just received a pair of new rear Bilsteins on Saturday. Here is what you get in the box: Shock, locking nut, 2 washers, a lower spring perch. There is also a circlip on the bottom ring that can be moved to adjust the lower perch location.

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I have a spare set of arms I can build for you and then you can just swap them out.

Hey bbrok, are those Bilstein B6 Performance Series Shocks and Struts 24-001793?

I was going to get a pair from Summit unless someone else can recommend a better seller.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-001793

Also I know 914 Rubber offers 100 lb rear springs, but I haven't been able to find springs anywhere else of differing rates (not coilover).

https://www.paragon-products.com/Lowering-S...914_springs.htm

Yes. B6. I got them from PMB Performance.

We make the parts you are looking for. We are also in the process of making the rubber trailing are bushings and we are working on a set of new shocks that will be matched to the springs that we have now.
Here is where you can find the parts on the new site.
https://900designs-container.zoeysite.com/9...rber-stabilizer

Let me know if you have any questions

Matt

@Matty900 what is the timeline for the rubber trailing arm bushings? Maybe ill hold off on installing the poly bushings.

Ditto. I have a set of your poly bushings and SS pivot rod which I could be installing as soon as next week, but will hold off if these rubber bushings will be coming out soon.

I purchased trailing arm bushings from 914rubber last year. They came with the steel shaft.

Prototype version 2 will be done in the next few weeks. They need to be test fitted at that point before we go forward on the production run. I believe we have it dialed in at this point and the prototypes will be great. We most likely will have a few extra that Mark may be persuaded to let go for R&D on a car or 2

Are you redoing the upper strut bushings. I have 2 sets sitting on the bench but they don't fit correctly. I asked about them 2 months ago but got no reply.
@matty900

I have the same issues with my new bushings that I purchased at PP..
Gap at the top side lower is fine. I'm told it's because the housings are 914.
The 911 housings are different.

same here; i ground them down real gently on my bench grinder and now they seat properly

@Matty900 Any update on the rubber trailing arm bushings? Going to be blasting and painting my trailing arms this weekend to start reassembly. Will be installing your hard bushings and SS pivot shafts but wondering if it would be worth waiting for the rubber version.

Are you saying that the bushings that I got a year ago with the stainless shaft have been upgraded to something you think is better? I was going to put them in in the near future and will wait if need be for improved version.

I'm in the same boat. What was explained to me at the time of the GB for the hard bushings is that rubber isn't necessarily "better," but they would restore the OEM ride if that's what you are looking for. I am, but at the time, it didn't sound like rubber was going to be offered due to installation challenges. Sounds like that my be about to change...

I have the hard ones with the SS shaft in my car and they are ok but the Rubber ones we are making now will be like factory. We took over another unit and are working on getting it set up but we will have thai soon. I will follow up with Mark and see where we are at on them and report back.

Getting ready to assemble the rear strut with Bilstein shocks and 100 lb springs from 914rubber. Just a few more questions:

1) Are parts 4 and 5 not applicable to Bilstein shocks?

2) Is part 6 orientated small hole up? It's been too long since I took it apart to remember.

3) If the top ring recess (furthest from the ground) is #1, is the #3 slot the correct slot for the clip (part 2)?

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I just finished installing my Bilsteins like 30 minutes ago! Here's what I can tell you:

- #4 is definately for Boge shocks only and not used for Bilstein.

- I don't think either #5 or #6 is needed with Bilstein gas shocks. I installed them anyway, mainly for appearance. #6 goes small hole up. I believe there is a better pic of it in the Factory Manual.

- I mounted my lower spring perch in the highest ring but you will probably need to go one or two lower. I installed my factory springs which are rated at only about 52 lbs. and that's about where they tested. I just put the Bilstein shocks next to my old Boge I am replacing and chose the perch that best matched the Boge. I may need to readjust after the car is put back together, but that's where I started. With stiffer springs, I'd assume you would need to lower the perch to retain the ride height but I'll let the smart people who actually know what they are talking about chime in.

I just want to verify a few things before I mount the rear trailing arms:

1) In theory are these shaft splines suppose to bind against the suspension ear and part #5 so the shaft stays stationary and the rubber bushing rotates with the arm during operation?

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2) Is washer #8 the only washer in the shaft assembly? It's the only one I remember taking off, but it seems strange there isn't one between the nut(#7) and part #5.

3) Are both shafts torqued to 108 ft-lb?

4) I bought this rear sway bar bushing from 914Rubber. Does it need to be cut or is there some creative way of slipping it onto the sway bar?

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That is my interpretation of how it works.



The washer isn't needed on the outer side because the bearing (part #5) acts as its own washer.



No. The outside bolted to part#5 gets 108 ft-lbs., but the inner on the ear only gets 87 ft-lbs. It takes a little deciphering to get that out of the factory manual, but that's what it says.



Hmm. Yes, it should be split but my 914Rubber bushing came already split. Use synthetic (non-petroleum, e.g. pure silicone) grease on those bushings.

I just completed installing Elephant Racing rubberbushings in the front A arms and the rear trailing arms. Very pleased with the omprovement in ride and car handling. Unless you are building a track car, this is the way to go. You do need the tools to install the bushings - not easy but very “doable” with the tools and a bar clamp at least 36 inches long.