Rust in the Tunnel Repair, my grinder doesn't fit in [I]there[I] |
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Rust in the Tunnel Repair, my grinder doesn't fit in [I]there[I] |
jandro62 |
Jan 27 2005, 09:02 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 104 Joined: 4-June 04 From: Texas Member No.: 2,156 |
So I popped the access panels off the tunnel, and despite the tunnel looking solid from the top, and solid from the underside of the car, there is soooo much rust in there. I had a field day with the magnetic pickup removing all sorts of crap. I even found a walnut shell, don't know how that got in there. Its enough rust that it worries me. Is this tunnel thing separate from the floorboards? How would I go about replacing it? Hell, do I try and plasma torch one side off of it to get at the rust and try and tack it back together?
Thanks, Alex |
Joe Ricard |
Jan 27 2005, 11:14 AM
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#2
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CUMONIWANNARACEU Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Gautier, MS Member No.: 92 |
The tunnel is separate from the floor boards. If'n you can weld this shouldn't be a problem. Only other optionis to vaccumit all out spray som metal prep and Por-15 what you can reach.
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SirAndy |
Jan 27 2005, 12:12 PM
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#3
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,815 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
well, sort of ... yes, you could drill out the spotwelds along the tunnel and take it out, but .... i bet most of the rust is at the *floor* part inside the tunnel, not the tunnel itself. and the floor is part of the pan. i have seen this many times, water gets in there and sits there for years, rusting the tunnel floor away. this is a tricky part to repair. if the rest of your floorpan is OK, you might want to consider cutting it from the bottom and weld in a patch. have you checked the floor pans in the rear, behind the seats? did you do the "crunch" test on the floorboard tar? usually, if you get enough water in the center tunnel to cause this kind of damage, the rest of the floorpans (and potentially the longs as well) doesn't look all that good either ... give us some pics of the carnage! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) Andy |
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scruz914 |
Jan 27 2005, 12:23 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 815 Joined: 26-February 04 From: Santa Cruz, CA Member No.: 1,724 |
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aircooledboy |
Jan 27 2005, 12:24 PM
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#5
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Sweet Pea's 1st ride in daddy's "vroom -vroom" Group: Members Posts: 1,672 Joined: 4-February 04 From: Rockford, IL Member No.: 1,629 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Reason 9,000,014 why this place rocks: There is always a big hitter who knows the answer to your question. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/pray.gif) In this case Perry answers this exact question.
If you can get the answer here, there just ain't one. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/clap.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) |
914werke |
Jan 27 2005, 02:24 PM
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#6
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,590 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Before you break out the torch are you sure its rot and not just scale?
I looked at my 74 recently and at first glance looks QUITE rusty but upon closer instpection it is all surface rust and not structural (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) |
cdmcse |
Jan 27 2005, 03:01 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 340 Joined: 17-December 04 From: Georgetown, Ky Member No.: 3,305 |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)
You should get under the car with a ice pick or screwdriver and see if you can poke a hole in the floor of the tunnel before cutting it off. If it seems solid you could just clean it out and put some POR15 or other on there. Mine was pretty rusty near the back so I opted to replace the rear half of the floor pan. |
xsboost90 |
Jan 27 2005, 04:18 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,393 Joined: 2-August 04 From: cincinnati Member No.: 2,432 |
get a quart of POR15, dump it in the hole by the seats, the jack up the front, then the back ,then the front, then the back....etc etc.. letting it down in between each of course. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beer.gif)
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swood |
Jan 27 2005, 04:30 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,839 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Strong Beach Member No.: 251 Region Association: None |
If'n it's just surface rust, it's no big deal (if you ignore it, it might be soon). Mine had very light rusting, so I used some Ospho acid, and then did a Por15 type swabbing with a coat hanger and rag. That did it. I also drilled a small drain hole in the rear part of the tunnel. That way when (not if) water gets in there it's got somewhere to go. The paint is slick enough that the water runs down and out pretty quick.
My .02. |
jimtab |
Jan 27 2005, 08:07 PM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,477 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Pacifica, California Member No.: 91 Region Association: Northern California |
Just for general rustprofing info, Rustoleum has recently made its "Rust Reformer" (a good product) available in a spray can, just like their spray paint. IF the local hardware store doesn't carry it, they can get it, or check with Rustoleum and they'll give you the name of the nearest dealer.
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DJsRepS |
Jan 28 2005, 04:40 AM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 431 Joined: 4-November 04 From: Sarasota Florida Member No.: 3,060 |
How does one cut and weld around the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel?
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914werke |
Jan 28 2005, 11:06 AM
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#12
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,590 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
You dont (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)
Use it as an oppertunity to replace the 30yr old lines with New Steel lines that wont crack leak or burst. |
jimtab |
Jan 28 2005, 02:20 PM
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#13
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,477 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Pacifica, California Member No.: 91 Region Association: Northern California |
You don't have to cut open the tunnel to replace the lines they can be removed and re fitted thru the openings in the back where they connect to the rubber lines, BUT as I found out after I demoed them, the hard lines are almost never the leaking problem, it's usually the rubber hoses and connections. Just my .02 |
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