Spare 1.7L looking to make something fun, What should I do? |
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Spare 1.7L looking to make something fun, What should I do? |
ammason |
Apr 13 2005, 11:39 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 88 Joined: 14-March 05 From: Sunny Honolulu Member No.: 3,758 Region Association: Hawaii |
Hey all,
After buying the 73. 2.0L from CAMP I pulled a crunched 72 out of someone's driveway for parts (the 73 needs a clutch), The car had been sitting after an accident for 2 years and was pretty much totalled after crunching the passenger-rear side against something large and white. The car was totalled, but the engine still seems intact (the transmission broke a mount clean off). I've been pulling other parts off the car and will have them available pretty cheap to those who want them, but since I've got the engine I was thinking about building a fun motor out of it. Any suggestions on what to build? Cost/performace/reliability all factors as it will be my daily driver... I'd probably be down to spend around $1k... Cheers! |
Andy |
Apr 13 2005, 11:57 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 106 Joined: 25-September 03 From: Fort Collins, CO Member No.: 1,194 |
You could make a huge-ass chainsaw! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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tat2dphreak |
Apr 13 2005, 12:00 PM
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#3
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
you can't do much for 1k... just to get the heads done will cost you $500+, if you want to bump it to 96mm pistons, that's another $600, and will mean more head work($$)(1.7 heads need to be opened up to accept the 96mm P&Cs, I'm assuming it's a 1.7 since it's a 72) and you haven't replaced the bearings, seals, etc...
check out www.aircooled.net for prices on some rebuild parts... cheapest you can do, if everything is GREAT in the engine... is get the headwork, keep the engine a 1.7, with new rings replace the rear seal, and PRAY.. that's about it for 1k... now, if you aren't in a hurry, spend some on the heads now... 750 ish, have the ports opened and make them accept the 96mm P&Cs... later, get a 2.0 Crank that's used and good, have it machined balanced and checked out for tolerances... slowly get the parts to make the engine you want... |
ammason |
Apr 13 2005, 12:09 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 88 Joined: 14-March 05 From: Sunny Honolulu Member No.: 3,758 Region Association: Hawaii |
Hmmm... well maybe $1k was wishful thinking. Let's toss that number out...
If I wanted to build a mild performance engine, something bigger than a 2.0L, what are a couple of good options, and how much can I realistically expect to spend? |
anthony |
Apr 13 2005, 12:12 PM
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#5
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2270 club Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,107 Joined: 1-February 03 From: SF Bay Area, CA Member No.: 218 |
There's not a lot you can do with a 1.7. You could make it in to a 1911cc motor with 96mm pistons. The heads would have to be opened up for 96mm cylinders though. If you had a set of 2L or 1.8L heads then they don' t need to be opened up.
Of course, if you can find a 2L crank and rods (usually about $200 used) you could bump it even further to 2056. You could add a hot cam but that will require carbs or a after market fuel injection. In the end you can spend just as much building up a 1.7 as you can a 2L engine. |
anthony |
Apr 13 2005, 12:19 PM
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#6
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2270 club Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,107 Joined: 1-February 03 From: SF Bay Area, CA Member No.: 218 |
You guys slipped ahead of me.
Also, check Jake's engine kits: http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/h...ome.php?cat=308 |
ammason |
Apr 13 2005, 12:28 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 88 Joined: 14-March 05 From: Sunny Honolulu Member No.: 3,758 Region Association: Hawaii |
Aside from the pistons and cylinders, how different are the 1.7s and 2.0s? I'd thought the short block was basically the same and that you could make a 2.0L out of a 1.7L just swapping a few parts...
I have webber 40IDFs off the running 2.0L in the car now that I could use with a hotter cam... I guess the question is if the 1.7 is really even worth building up in the first place... |
tat2dphreak |
Apr 13 2005, 12:32 PM
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#8
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
yep, if you really want to buid a type 4 engine... get one of Jake's Kits...
about 3-4k(starting) but you get everything you need, I'll you have to do is put it together like he shows how to do in his video... best thing you can do with an engine if you have never rebuilt a type 4 before, or even if you have.... if you try and save money and pull together parts yourself, get your own headwork done, and everything... you will spend 3x as much time and very close to the same amount of money... get a kit! best you can do on a budget of about 2k, is the 1911, or if you get lucky and find a good 2l crank cheap enough, you can go to a 2056... but the engine you put together won't last 1/2 as long as a Jake kit, and won't put out the HP... I'd be willing to bet his 1911 (smallest) KIT puts out more hp than I could get out of a 2056 if I built it myself... and if you want bigger than 2056, his kit is the *ONLY* way I'd recommend it... anything like a 2270+ requires much more experience than I wil ever have... |
bondo |
Apr 13 2005, 12:36 PM
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#9
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Practicing my perpendicular parking Group: Members Posts: 4,277 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Los Osos, CA Member No.: 587 Region Association: Central California |
I have a set of bus 2 liter heads set up for 94 mm cylinders. Won't breathe as well as 2.0 914 heads, but they're more durable. One has a missing fin in a relatively minor spot, but both have good spark plug holes and exhaust studs. The previous owner said they were rebuilt, not sure how many miles ago though, so they should probably at least be checked out. I'll let them go cheap, and if you're going to the WCC I can even bring them to save shipping.
(End shameless plug) |
bondo |
Apr 13 2005, 12:37 PM
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#10
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Practicing my perpendicular parking Group: Members Posts: 4,277 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Los Osos, CA Member No.: 587 Region Association: Central California |
The case is the same, that's about it. Different crank, rods, pistons, cylinders and heads. |
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tat2dphreak |
Apr 13 2005, 12:39 PM
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#11
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
the only real difference is the heads and the crank... you will be changing the cam regardless to run carbs right... the heads on the 1.7 aren't made to hold the 96mm pistons, so they need to be opened up that way... they also don't FLOW as well, so you need to have them ported for anything, just about... the crank on the 2.0 is 71mm stroke instead of 66mm... the rods are also a different length, and have a different journal... http://tunacan.net/t4/tech/conrods.htm but the rods will be changed too... the main differences are the heads and the crank... you can use the 1.7 heads, they will just need more work, or find some good 2.0 heads and have them refreshed(maybe a little cheaper, but not by much) |
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tat2dphreak |
Apr 13 2005, 12:41 PM
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#12
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I'd jump on this offer if I were in your place... 1.8 or 2.0 bus heads will work better than your 1.7 heads and require less work. |
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Jake Raby |
Apr 13 2005, 01:11 PM
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#13
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Funny that this one came up here...
Len and I are working on a super efficient engine based from a 1700 arrangement. Read all about it here http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=86957 Yes, the goal is 50 MPG! |
tat2dphreak |
Apr 13 2005, 01:15 PM
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#14
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) diesel? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) |
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Jake Raby |
Apr 13 2005, 01:30 PM
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#15
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Nope, on 89 octane gas....
Read the thread! |
tat2dphreak |
Apr 13 2005, 02:07 PM
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#16
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I did! sounds awesome! the little wink means I was kidding... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) |
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Jake Raby |
Apr 13 2005, 02:20 PM
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#17
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
I know.....
BTW- Middle finger isn't up today...LOL |
mightyohm |
Apr 13 2005, 02:22 PM
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#18
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,277 Joined: 16-January 03 From: Seattle, WA Member No.: 162 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
turbo turbo turbo turbo
TURBO! |
airsix |
Apr 13 2005, 04:12 PM
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#19
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I have bees in my epiglotis Group: Members Posts: 2,196 Joined: 7-February 03 From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State) Member No.: 266 |
I agree. All 1.7's should be turbo-ed and then rodded to death and replaced with something big. Mine is turbo-ed and being rodded. Still waiting for it's death. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rocking nana.gif) -Ben M. |
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Root_Werks |
Apr 13 2005, 04:30 PM
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#20
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,426 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/driving.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/driving.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif) |
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