OT: Working on my shop car, The wagon Porsche never built. . . Options

[aircooledtechguy]

Look what showed-up today on the brown truck. . .

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399429564.1.jpg)

I contacted my machinist and asked him to make it light, but not a bomb. . . He was able to remove 6.8# off of it right where it counts. Started out a portly 16.8#. Now she's a trim 10.0#!! Hell, my daughters have more crap hanging from their key chains than this thing weighs!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Should make for a lively rev'r and allow a lot of the power to actually get to the tires!!

[aircooledtechguy]

My buddy hooked this brother up and used Plexis to permanently bond the bumper and air dam together. Then he fared the two together for a smooth seamless look. Now it's ready for a scuff, prime and paint. I added the flexible rubber bottom skirt to see how it looks together with the bumper.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399502217.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399502218.2.jpg)

[aircooledtechguy]

Lots of mundane stuff this Saturday.

Fixed and pulled the drivers front fender into place to give it room for the front tires/wheels. Here's a couple before (stock) and pulled so you can see how much can be done with just your hands.

tire clearance begins with under 1/4"; ends with just over 1":
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920675.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920675.2.jpg)

Subtle pulling can just be seen:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920675.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920676.4.jpg)

It should be noted that by pulling the fenders even by hand like this causes the door gap at the front of the door to get HUGE and filling/re-gapping is required after.

Added the driver mirror mount and filled the OEM mirror holes. Also filled the stock windshield squirter hole. In time, I'll be adding a set of OEM Porsche 911 squirters to the front hood.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920677.5.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920677.6.jpg)

Finally got a chance to mate-up the front bumper with the fenders in place to get a good look. For street driving, I probably won't run the rubber skirt. For the track though, it'll definitely be on there.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920677.7.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1399920678.8.jpg)

[bulitt]

Awesome ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[KELTY360]

You're gonna need landing lights on either side of the license plate bracket to finish that puppy off.

[aircooledtechguy]

As body work continues at my buddies house, I've turned my attention to the new motor. After 3 years of acquiring parts, I finally have the final pieces in hand and none too soon. The final pieces were the custom Web cam, and a custom set of Deves rings. So I mocked-up the bottom-end so I could clearance the H-beam rod caps so they wouldn't hit the cam lobes on pistons #2 & #4. I also had to modify and clearance a type1 pump and the cam bolts so they would all live in harmony as well as port the oil passage on the pressure side of the pump.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401322644.1.jpg)

I also took this occasion to get my deck height and calculate static CR for this motor. It's a dual purpose mill that will see street driving as well as track duties. I know that it's a compromise on both parts, but it's built more for the track since I always have my trusty 2056cc to fall back on if it's just not practical for street use. I was already having fun with the local H*nda V-tec dorks with the mild 2056cc, so this 2.3L stroker should send all but the turbo'd guys home with their tails between their legs.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401322645.2.jpg)

Once I get the parts back from the balancer, my son Josh is going to build this motor as I look on. I want him to get the credit/accolades for any wins the car gets in future events. He's stoked about the opportunity to *finally* build a motor after 5+ years of tear-down duty here at the shop. He's been the tear-down-king since he was 8 y/o and it's about time he did the deed. As I always say, families who build motors together, stay together. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Tom]

Nate,
That is so cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
Tom

[jmill]

The sh*t just got serious!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

How the heck did I miss this? Best build ever!!!!

[aircooledtechguy]

Thanks for the kind words guys. It's been a long journey thus far, but the end is getting close enough to see. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Todd Enlund]

Awesome stuff Nate. Gonna be the coolest type III on the planet!

[aircooledtechguy]

My buddy who's doing the body work came by and grabbed both doors and the front left fender to work on and brought back the right rear fender. . . Man, this thing is coming together. Pics later on that; I have bigger fish to fry.

I concentrated on getting the engine parts 100% ready for the balancer and the rear valance.

On the motor side, I only needed to notch the H-beam rods so that a stream of oil would spray on the bottom of the piston crowns. This cools the pistons and cooling can't be a bad thing right?? Bel0w is the un-modified rod:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594201.1.jpg)

Below is the modified rod.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594201.2.jpg)

I used a three sided hand file to make the groove in just a few strokes. This channels the oil splash off the rod the and forces it to the back side of the piston in order to cool the crown. This 5 minute mod, can cool the pistons by 30F+. Well worth the time.

Now I turned my attention to the rear of the car. A month or more, I removed the factory rear apron; it was bent and generally wasted. I wanted to remove it and replace it with a panel that would breath and allow the natural vacuum of the car to draw not only the engine cooling air out, but also the air under the car. I decided to make a rear diffuser of sorts. I started by tracing out the rear profile onto a template material. Then bolted-up the fiber glass rear bumper, to ensure it would exit just under the bumper.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594201.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594202.4.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594202.5.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594202.6.jpg)

Then I welded it in place.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594202.7.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594202.8.jpg)

The entire area under the rear will be mesh but I'm still waiting on that from the supplier.

On the front of the car, since I'm going to run small Braille 18# battery that will be totally contained between the spare tire and the nose skin of the front apron, jumping it will be impossible. So I added a pair of remote battery terminals for jumping the car if that was ever necessary. I picked these up on eBay cheap. This week, I'm going to be carefully measuring the cables needed and getting them made locally.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401594202.9.jpg)

[aircooledtechguy]

Out with the old. . .

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1401809492.1.jpg)

The 2056cc comes out to make room for the new 2.3L that will replace it. With a little luck, my son may begin the build-up this Saturday if I can get the parts back from the balancer by Friday. Only the cooling tins and alternator will move over to the new motor. All the injection and exhaust will be new, one-off pieces.

[aircooledtechguy]

So as body work continues (cough, hack, puke), I took a break from that work that I hate(!) and jumped back on a fab job that I began a couple months ago. I got to the point that I needed to install my mock-up motor so I could finalize the racing exhaust pipe location as well as finish making the custom air box for the ITBs. Believe it or not, this was my first test fit of the mock-up motor with the new mount bar, exhaust and ITBs in the car. . . LIKE A GLOVE!!!

I began by dragging out a pair of relatively hard to find Porsche 2.0L air cleaner assemblies. I made some cut lines and began cutting them both to pieces in order to come-up with basically a square center box with a short, but better breathing wide snout.

The vision. . .
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1402544120.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1402544120.2.jpg)

After the cutting was done, the left over pieces went into the recycle bin. . .

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1402544120.3.jpg)

I welded the pieces together and ended up with a center air box that fit great.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1402544120.4.jpg)

Then I ordered four 90 degree silicone boots and cut about ¾” off one end so they wouldn’t be too tall and fit under the factory type3 engine cover.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1402544120.5.jpg)

Then I marked out where the 2” pipes would come into the center box and hole sawed the sides of the center box. I used some 2” muffler pipe to make the pipes leading out to each ITB silicone elbow and tacked them in place with the MIG.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1402544120.6.jpg)

I’ll finish weld them tomorrow since it’s been a pretty long day thus far. Eventually it will get powder coated like the engine tins for that "factory skunk-works" look and a fresh K&N element.

[PanelBilly]

Can I be one of your sons?

[Dave_Darling]

I began by dragging out a pair of relatively hard to find Porsche 2.0L air cleaner assemblies.

Hard to find? Does that mean my stash of them could be worth some $$?

--DD

[Cap'n Krusty]

I wouldn't be Krusty if I didn't ask a few annoying questions:

First, you say: "Should make for a lively rev'r and allow a lot of the power to actually get to the tires!!" I understand the quicker revving, but how does lightening the flywheel increase the amount of power getting to the wheels?

Second: Why a K&N on an engine in which you have so much time and money invested? There is far more (like a multiple) filter area, measured in square inches, in the factory type filter than in a K&N. The pores in the filter medium are much smaller, giving you a FAR better chance of removing those pesky little buggers that cause wear to the internals.

Thank you for the opportunity to be myownself! Oh, and thanks for the marvelous thread! Along with Britain's, there's a lot of awesome entertainment value.

The Cap'n

[aircooledtechguy]

I wouldn't be Krusty if I didn't ask a few annoying questions:

First, you say: "Should make for a lively rev'r and allow a lot of the power to actually get to the tires!!" I understand the quicker revving, but how does lightening the flywheel increase the amount of power getting to the wheels?

Second: Why a K&N on an engine in which you have so much time and money invested? There is far more (like a multiple) filter area, measured in square inches, in the factory type filter than in a K&N. The pores in the filter medium are much smaller, giving you a FAR better chance of removing those pesky little buggers that cause wear to the internals.

Thank you for the opportunity to be myownself! Oh, and thanks for the marvelous thread! Along with Britain's, there's a lot of awesome entertainment value.

The Cap'n

If you lighten a flywheel it takes less HP for the motor to spin it which in turn allows more of it to get to the wheels. The motor doesn't make one single bit more HP at the crank, it's just easier to turn. This same principal applies to any of the rotating parts (crank, rods, pistons, etc.); make them lighter and you allow more of the motors power to turn the wheels. If you've ever done any cycling, the same principal applies when you lighten the rims/tires (kevlar beaded) on your bike; you're able to spin faster and go up hills easier and the effect is pretty dramatic. It simply allows more of your available HP to get to the ground. Of course the trade-off is that you can't coast as well with a lightened flywheel (or bike wheels for that matter) since you don't have as much stored energy in the flywheel so you sacrifice a bit of fuel mileage for the access to that power.

I'll have both filters available when I dyno the motor and I'll decide then what I will run at the track. I may not even run this filter assembly at the track and may just run traditional filter assemblies for that. This is mainly so I don't have to listen to the "snort-snort" of the ITBs as I drive on the roads.

I'm here for your retirement entertainment Cap'n. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[914work]

Nate if you still have that nose section removed from the airbox hang onto it. I have my own mod/project that it would be useful. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Cap'n Krusty]

I'm not all that convinced by your explanation of the benefits of the flywheel mods, but I'll think on it for a bit. Next question: Is that intake tube gonna be attached to a cold air source? I suspect you might gain more benefit from that than from chopping the flywheel.

The Cap'n

[McMark]

I agree with Nate. HP at the wheels is always lower than at the crank. Why? the variety of losses along the way from the crank to the wheels. Anything you can do that reduces transmission losses shows up at the wheels. Lighter flywheel? Aluminum pressure plate? Lightened differential? All those will reduce transmission losses.