OT: Working on my shop car, The wagon Porsche never built. . . |
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OT: Working on my shop car, The wagon Porsche never built. . . |
r_towle |
Nov 17 2014, 06:18 PM
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#341
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,645 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Makes me smile that your bump steering was happening whe you "darted out to pass someone" all in a square back
Never made to dart out anywhere, and certainly not to pass anyone, ever. |
orangecrate |
Nov 18 2014, 08:56 AM
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#342
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Member Group: Members Posts: 162 Joined: 16-September 13 From: Apache Junction AZ Member No.: 16,394 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Yea Compression start your automatic 73 Blazer coming DOWN Mt Erie. On tall skinny mud tires. That will get your adrenaline flowing--- and your passengers screaming!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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aircooledtechguy |
Nov 18 2014, 10:17 AM
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#343
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Makes me smile that your bump steering was happening whe you "darted out to pass someone" all in a square back Never made to dart out anywhere, and certainly not to pass anyone, ever. That's why I love this platform; no one expects it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Yea Compression start your automatic 73 Blazer coming DOWN Mt Erie. On tall skinny mud tires. That will get your adrenaline flowing--- and your passengers screaming!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) No thanks!! Mt Erie is literally on my way home, but I don't like to drive that road fast. Too tight (calling it a two lane road is a stretch) with too many hikers, bikers joggers and critters popping out of nowhere all the way up and down. I'm guessing you'd need about 30+mph to start an automatic. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
orangecrate |
Nov 19 2014, 03:25 PM
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#344
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Member Group: Members Posts: 162 Joined: 16-September 13 From: Apache Junction AZ Member No.: 16,394 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Yea something like that. I was to busy watching the road to look at the speedo! And it was a couple decades ago in late fall I think. The tourist had all gone home. It would be fun to get it blocked off for hillclimbs though. Probably upset the birkinstock crowd. And it is kinda small up top.
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aircooledtechguy |
Nov 19 2014, 05:10 PM
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#345
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Probably upset the birkinstock crowd. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) They're pissed there is even a road or cars to drive on it. |
aircooledtechguy |
Jan 6 2015, 04:39 PM
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#346
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I've been a little nervous about coupling the new 2.3L race motor to the Squarsche with just a stock clutch installed. In the past I had been able to slip the clutch just a bit in the harshest driving with the 2056cc engine with a disc I used to run. That hasn't been a problem wince I replaced the disc, but I didn't want that to be an issue. So when I found a guy on the local craigslist selling a NOS Centerforce dual friction 914 clutch kit, I bit and picked it up cheeeeeeeep.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1420583997.1.jpg) He bought it back in 1999 for about $350. I bought it in 2014 just before Christmas for $250. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Normally this set-up goes for around $850+ today so it was quite a score for me. In order to comfortably use this HD clutch assembly, I would have to upgrade my clutch actuation to a hydraulic set-up. So after seeing what was out there and reading mixed reviews, I decided on the SACO in the tunnel MC/slave cyl kit since I could use my existing pedals. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1420583997.2.jpg) I’m no stranger to custom installs. In fact, a good custom job beats a stock job just about any day since it’s doing something different. I love custom work. What I do not love, is tons of custom fabrication when the parts are advertised as “bolt-in”. I knew going into this install that it would not be 100% bolt-in because I have a Porsche 923 5-speed trans which is anything but stock so I knew I would have to figure out how to make the slave cylinder work with what I have. I did half way expect the master cylinder install to go fairly smoothly and be relatively bolt-in since the kit was made and advertised for both T-1 & T-3 cars. I can’t speak about how it installs into a T-1, but I can tell you all that the kit takes considerable tweeking to fit into a T-3. In retrospect, I think installing cheap Chinese chrome engine tins and getting them to seal like factory German tins would have been easier. I’m just glad that I already had a larger access hole cut into my tunnel AND that I have a lift here at my shop so I had easier access than either on my back or through the top by removing the fuel tank. To fit this MC and bracket into a type3, here are some of the added steps not noted in the instructions that had to be done in order for it to physically fit in it's intended location: - I had to trim the upper, left tunnel cover mount hole off so the MC mount bracket/MC would even fit into the tunnel (it sticks out of the front of the tunnel approx 2”). - I had to trim the entire left side of the tunnel access hole so the bracket would fit flat when bolted in. - I had to use a burr to clearance the bottom, fwd end of the bracket approx ½”X1” in order to allow the 2 mount bolts to align with the factory pedal bolt locations. It doesn't sound like much, but I cannot stress what a TOTAL PITA this was due to the location and access (or lack there of). Approx 5 hours of back and forth, taking a bit off and try and wrestle it back in only to find I had more to remove here and there. All the while laying across the seats reaching through a sharp access hole. There is no easy way to work in the pedal area; it ALWAYS sucks in the best of circumstances. I cannot tell you all just how many times I seriously contemplated taking this MC & bracket across the street and filling it full of .45 slugs!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1420583997.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1420583997.4.jpg) The slave cylinder was surprisingly straight forward and rather simple. It fit perfectly between the casting on the trans case which holds the clutch cable end and the clutch arm. I simply drilled out the Porsche clutch clevis to fit the S/C. I turned a teflon bushing with my lathe for the other end and bolted it to the trans case being sure that it could move and pivot in the stationary hole. I had to slightly trim one of the ribs about 1/8" so the slave cylinder wouldn't hit it. Lastly, I replaced the supplied 90degree #3AN fitting with a straight #3AN fitting so the braided pressure line would fit better. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1420583997.5.jpg) Of course, once I mounted the reservoir and bled the system, I quickly discovered that I needed just a bit more pedal movement then I could get with the factory hook. So I had to take out and pull apart the pedal assembly. I cut-off the hook and made a piece that was 10mm longer and welded it to the clutch pedal rod. Then I made a new clutch MC push rod that was about ¼” longer. When I then discovered that I still needed slightly more throw, I relented and cut about ¼” off the pedal stop. . . FINALLY, a hydraulic clutch that works as it should. No small feat though getting this kit to work on my T-3. Not all the issues I encountered were due to the kit not fitting a type3. However, there was just no way that MC & bracket would ever fit without a lot of massaging of the bracket and the car. While it seems to works well, I don’t know if I could recommend this to anyone installing it into a T-3 without letting them know what they are in for. Again, I’m no stranger to custom fabrication; it’s just irritating when parts that are supposedly designed to work and fit, don’t even come close to either. I’m glad this was for my car and not for a client. |
Bulldog9 |
Jan 7 2015, 07:47 AM
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#347
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 705 Joined: 21-August 13 From: United States Member No.: 16,283 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Always wanted one of these
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aircooledtechguy |
Feb 4 2015, 07:45 PM
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#348
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
The quest for reliable speed continues. . .
After much contemplation, thought and otherwise thinkin' things over, I've decided that dry sumping the 2316cc race motor would be a wise investment. Here have been my thoughts in random fashion. . . - The deep sump hangs down a little lower than I would like and otherwise makes me a bit nervous. I'm retired Navy and when I go on base with the Squarsche, I have to cross some pretty big steel barriers that would either (a) hit the deep sump or (b) come darned close to hitting the deep sump and every crossing I would wonder: "is this the day. . ." I don't want to test it!! - Long sweeping turns are no big deal when you have 12 quarts in the dry-sump. They can be a problem in a wet-sump motor with less than half that. . . - All the added weight is low and forward of the center of gravity in the car. - Not having to worry about ruining my high $$$ race motor by running dry on oil; PRICELESS!! I've acquired a new CB dry sump pump. This will be dutifully modified for use in a type4 and will be ported internally. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1423100743.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1423100744.2.jpg) The custom mount bar I made earlier will need to be highly modified since the inlet/outlet to & from the dry sump tank are right where the solid mounts are that I made earlier. . . (sigh!) Such is custom car building. . .(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) So a re-design is in order so the oil lines can fit in that space while still mounting the engine. I already have ideas so look for an update on that when I have time to make it happen. The tank I found was an eBay special in the form of a Richardson Racing 12qt dry sump tank out of a modified race car. Some of the fittings are too big and will need to be made more VW-compatible. Some are not needed. But this tank has an integrated O-Berg oil filter and should fit nicely where the battery now resides under the rear seat. For the price, I couldn't pass it up!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1423100744.3.jpg) The battery will be permanently moved to the "frunk" where it belongs and where it will aid in adding weight where needed. |
tdgray |
Feb 5 2015, 01:11 PM
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#349
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Thank God Nemo is not here to see this Group: Members Posts: 9,705 Joined: 5-August 03 From: Akron, OH Member No.: 984 Region Association: None |
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edwin |
Feb 6 2015, 01:09 AM
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#350
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Member Group: Members Posts: 321 Joined: 20-May 09 From: Australia Member No.: 10,384 Region Association: Australia and New Zealand |
Very keen to see how this turns out. I've been think about a dry sump conversion for a while. As in understand the CB pump still uses the same oil pickup and pressure ports in the case?
I seem to remember something about it being more difficult to run a remote filter and cooler like with some others. I assume it's still easy to adapt to ports in the block for that though. Very keen to see how it sits behind the fan shroud. Would it be possible to show it with 914 engine mounts? Cheers Edwin |
aircooledtechguy |
Feb 6 2015, 09:19 AM
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#351
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Very keen to see how this turns out. I've been think about a dry sump conversion for a while. As in understand the CB pump still uses the same oil pickup and pressure ports in the case? I seem to remember something about it being more difficult to run a remote filter and cooler like with some others. I assume it's still easy to adapt to ports in the block for that though. Very keen to see how it sits behind the fan shroud. Would it be possible to show it with 914 engine mounts? Cheers Edwin I don't see any way to run standard 914 or even bus engine mounts with the pump. The external oil inlet/outlet are right where the mount *should* be on a stock mount. I think I've got a pretty simple work-around for that, but I gotta try it first when I have some time. I really liked how my motor mount turned out and I hate the idea of cutting it up again. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I will need to clearance a couple of webs behind the fan shroud a little with a burr, but there's just enough room for it back there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) First though, I need to modify this pump so I can make it fit and live in harmony within the motor. |
Dave_Darling |
Feb 6 2015, 10:28 AM
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#352
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,060 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The external oil inlet/outlet are right where the mount *should* be on a stock mount. That's always been one of the issues with dry-sump setups. It can be dealt with, of course. And it's easier to deal with in engines converted to upright fans. I bet that when the pump setup was designed, the 911 fan setup was the default for the "advanced" Type IV engines, so they designed for that. That was before Jake actually tested the fan setups, of course. --DD |
aircooledtechguy |
Feb 23 2015, 06:17 PM
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#353
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I spent some time today doing some of the mods necessary to correctly fit a CB Performance type1 dry sump pump into a type4 motor. I have to say that it was not much more difficult than the mods required for a 30mm pump.
Here's how the pump breaks down: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1424737055.1.jpg) The pump uses a 26mm suction side (the bottom pump) and a 21mm pressure side. On the back side of the pump, there was a small bit of clearancing needed. On the drive shaft boss, I needed to shave approx. '040" off. On the idler boss, I shaved it approx .030" which was basically flush with the pin. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1424737056.2.jpg) On each end of the drive pin, I shaved approx. '025". On the pressure gear end, I removed the '025 on my lathe. On the drive tang, I simply removed it by hand on a disc sander and re-profiled it. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1424737056.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1424737056.4.jpg) On both the inlet (from the tank) and outlet (to the tank) I had to drill each approx. .200" deeper and re-tap the holes deeper into the body to be able to attach the inlet/outlet nipples. They would not fit otherwise. Kind of crappy manufacturing, but I've seen this before on other things. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1424737057.5.jpg) Now all I have to do is to port in internal passages and clean in my ultrasonic cleaner and it'll be ready to install in the motor. |
aircooledtechguy |
Mar 16 2015, 08:30 AM
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#354
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
This weekend, we got the chance to test the Squarsche at a track event. Evergreen Drift was hosting an auto-X @ Evergreen Speedway in Monroe, WA, so we grabbed our gear and headed down. That was about the best $65 I've spent in a long time!!
The course took most about 1:00 - 1:20 seconds to complete depending on your car and driver's ability to get through it. My best time was around 1:08. I won't even talk about the times on 2 runs that I spun out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) It poured rain for most of the day, so that was to our advantage since we didn't have the HP of some of the other cars giving us better traction. It was very satisfying to beat an R32 Skyline, 'course if the pavement had been dry, he'd have handed my @$$ to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) I did get to play with the Koni front shocks a bit and found that full firm minus one turn was the hot ticket for that track in those conditions for my car. On full firm, the back-end would get loose a lot easier in the slalom section under braking, but when I softened it up a bit, the rear was more compliant and stuck better. It really handled great! In the back section, I could normally begin to close gaps between us and the car in front. It laid pretty flat in the corners and handled as good and better than I had imagined. Some areas of improvement that became very evident are: 1. I need a fuel cell. I could smell gas sloshing out of the cap on a few corners. 2. I need new easier to reach adjustment screws for the rear suspension. 3. I need to dyno tune the EFI to this motor. We gave up a lot of time due to tuning and having a lack of power at the moment we needed it. 4. Of course, MORE HP!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) As can be expected with the weather we had, it was a drift-fest and one hell of a lot of fun. The best part was that my son Josh could ride with me in the so we could enjoy it together. Here's a shot of the Squarsche w/ Josh inside in the staging lanes waiting for the next run. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1426516249.1.jpg) In all, we were able to make 9 runs around the course. I got them on the GoPro, however I had it mounted upside down on the suction cup. Normally I have it outside the car, but this time I had it inside and it would only fit up side down. If any of you know how to flip the videos before I up load, let me know how please. I'm electronically challenged. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
aircooledtechguy |
Apr 2 2015, 10:50 PM
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#355
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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rick 918-S |
Apr 2 2015, 11:07 PM
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#356
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,786 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
Cool! Were you sliding around 1:22-23?
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aircooledtechguy |
Apr 3 2015, 09:35 AM
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#357
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
So yesterday, I had a lull in the action while waiting on a few parts so I decided to begin doing something about the fuel sloshing and leaking out under hard cornering that I experienced at the auto-X. I knew that in time a fuel cell would be needed so I had already begun getting parts for it. I was at a car show a year ago and found a fuel cell top that was in really nice condition for $20 so I snagged it. I'm not going to be using the factory outlet and long suction tube, so I'll be capping that off.
This morning, I went over to the local metal supplier and dug through the scrap cuttings (the stuff you only pay by the pound for) and got some nice pieces of 3/16” 6061 T6 to make all the pieces I would need. Even though it was scrap I still had $140 into the materials!! Gotta pay to play, right?? I went with 3/16 to ensure I had good thick metal that would hold up in the event of the un-thinkable. The internal baffling will be thinner though. My cheap plasma cutter worked awesome and cut through it like a hot knife through butta’. After I cleaned up the edges, on the top plate, I began laying it out by making an “X” from corner to corner. Once I got the vent valve, fuel outlet nipple and the burp-flap removed, I got it centered and used a centering punch to make the first 2 drill marks and drilled them. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1428075325.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1428075325.2.jpg) I went back and de-burred all the holes with a countersink bit. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1428075325.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1428075326.4.jpg) Then I bolted the top into place marked all the other holes. Since the top piece is steel, I chose to use it as a drill guide to ensure all the remaining 22 holes were perfect. I used the base ring as a guide for the large center hole and marked it with a sharpie. Then hole-sawed a pair of holes and jig sawed out the rest. I’m saving the 2 round hole-saw discs for later so I can use them as re-enforcement for the outlet and inlet nipples that will later be in the bottom of the tank. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1428075326.5.jpg) Once the edges were smoothed, I got everything fitted to the top. Fits perfect!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1428075326.6.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1428075326.7.jpg) I'm estimating this tank to be around 23+ gallons. |
aircooledtechguy |
Jun 22 2015, 10:19 PM
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#359
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Just a quick look at something I've been working on at my buddies shop in my off time. Stay tuned for more on this in the future. . . 8)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usJl45lVULg |
aircooledtechguy |
Jun 24 2015, 01:24 PM
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#360
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The Aircooledtech Guy Group: Members Posts: 1,966 Joined: 8-November 08 From: Anacortes, WA Member No.: 9,730 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
This morning I stopped by my buddies shop and removed the door panel blank off the infusion table. Should make a nice door panel when trimmed out and done the way I'm planning.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images.thesamba.com-9730-1435173854.1.jpg) |
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