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> The 25-year/250,000-mile refresh, UPDATE 5.15.2017: After first 1,000-mile trip
TravisNeff
post Apr 9 2008, 12:45 PM
Post #121


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Go Tornado! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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Todd Enlund
post Apr 9 2008, 01:05 PM
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FWIW, It's actually Tornado Red. It replaced Mars Red for the 1986 model year. And I agree... it's one of the nicest reds out there.
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horizontally-opposed
post Apr 9 2008, 01:08 PM
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Ah, thanks for the correction...

pete
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mike_the_man
post Apr 9 2008, 05:13 PM
Post #124


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I vote for Tornado Red. It looks a little deeper to me. And in your pics of the car before the body work, it looked great! It's obviously a colour you like alot, so I'd stick with it.

P.S. Great thread Pete!

Cheers,
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watsonrx13
post Apr 9 2008, 06:49 PM
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Well, since others are giving you their opinion, I'll add mine....

I'm partial to bahia red.... BTW, both are original bahia red '74 2.0

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Here's a better shot of the finished bahia red driver...

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Whichever color you choose, you're doing a great job....

-- Rob
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horizontally-opposed
post Apr 14 2008, 05:41 PM
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Long before there was a Boxster limited-edition by the same name, there was the 914 "RS60 Spyder"


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



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post Apr 14 2008, 05:43 PM
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With its unusual formula car Momo wheel, complete with electrical tape to cover up the horn button hole-related failure...


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post Apr 14 2008, 05:46 PM
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Getting close to ready for the paint shop. All that remains (this side of sanity) is windshield removal and a little adhesive removal on the firewall and front trunk bulkhead.

I may also make a deeper check of the previous rust treating (ca. 1991) at the back of the rear trunk floor. Or not. A cursory inspection showed it worked very well...

pete


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post Apr 14 2008, 05:50 PM
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Finally, just for fun, we decided to weigh the car as is, with all mechanicals (it's a running, driving car but for its lack of a 15-pound driver's seat), both windshields, steel wheels, tar over most of the floors, the engine sound pad, the headlight assemblies less the lights themselves, and about a half tank of gas. Engine lid and headlight bits were in the back trunk.

To my surprise, it came out at 1,591 pounds.

My guess is that, with a light battery, alloy wheels, FG decklids and bumpers, Perlon carpeting, Plexi side windows on 356 GT/911R style strap adjusters but with seats, a top, all rubber seals, lights, and steel sides (fenders and doors), you might be able to build a streetable 914 in the 1650-1750-lb range.

Very tempting, but not what my car is.

pete


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Eric_Shea
post Apr 14 2008, 06:35 PM
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QUOTE
Very tempting, but not what my car is.


I'll let ya know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(P.S. Your steering wheel is bent)
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post Apr 14 2008, 10:37 PM
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Need some advice:

I taped off the wiring and and headlight assemblies, then covered them in plastic bags with tightly taped ends to seal them off from getting wet during the inevitable bodywork soakings. Good idea?

And, more importantly, how should I prevent moisture from getting into all of the dashboard/gauge wiring once the windshield is out? Am I being paranoid? Is it better to let this stuff get a little wet and dry out in the open, or to bag it as best possible and hope for the best?

Thanks!

pete
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rick 918-S
post Apr 14 2008, 10:50 PM
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Any good body shop masking paper taped in place of the missing glass will hold out several washings as long as you use good (3M or American brand) masking tape. Don't use cheap tape you pay for it later.

The reason the masking paper will hold back water is the solvents used in modern urothane paints will soak through the old standard masking. Todays masking is designed to resist this.
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post Apr 14 2008, 11:04 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Apr 14 2008, 05:35 PM) *

(P.S. Your steering wheel is bent)


So is the bottom of the one in my GTI... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

pete
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Eric_Shea
post Apr 14 2008, 11:11 PM
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Pete,

Knowing what is going to happen at the body shop I would tape and cover "everything" that you don't want a layer of dust etc. on.
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Gint
post Apr 15 2008, 06:04 PM
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Looks pretty stripped already, but I'd completely tape up that dash and gauge/wiring. Water proof? That's a little paranoid.
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post Apr 16 2008, 01:18 PM
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Windshield removal on my car = no fun.

Butyl tape is everywhere and holding the trim in well enough that "the tool" ain't doin it.

Luckily, I have new windshield trim and mine was only so-so. I got the two two pieces out, but I'd like to save the bottom piece because the new one arrived nicely bent from GPR. (To his credit, Dave offered to take it back, but I never got around to sending it back.)

Ideas to get that bottom piece out? Is there something that dissolves butyl, or am I dreaming?

pete
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TravisNeff
post Apr 16 2008, 01:27 PM
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can you add a little heat to the butyl with a heat gun might soften it up some. Not sure if that'll do a number on your glass tho (the heat that is).
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post Apr 1 2009, 04:08 PM
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Well, many months later, my car has returned from paint. I have to say that while it took far longer than I had hoped or planned, I am thrilled with the results.


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post Apr 1 2009, 04:10 PM
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...


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post Apr 1 2009, 04:12 PM
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straighter than I've ever had it, and I've had it 20 years now...


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