Introducing "Dirty Penny" - Former $2010[$2012] GRM Project, Running. Driving. Boosting. FUN! Options

[FourBlades]

Nice work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Want to see Penny in the magazine this fall.

John

[jersey914]

It's aliveeeeeee!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jpnovak]

Despite the progress last week getting the car started I still had some issues. When I started up Penny I noticed something strange. The engine idled about 2500 rpm. This was way too high. At first I thought the idle control valve was not working. When I unplugged it the idle dropped about 200 rpm. Yep, it was working. Logical conclusion... Air leak.

I was gone all week traveling for work. I could not stop thinking about it so I came home at lunch Friday and cranked up the compressor. I used the manifold pressure inlet line and put about 30 psi on it. HMM that tell-tale hissing means there is more than just leaking from the throttle body. I start feeling around. All the vacuum lines were connected properly. It was not the purge valve that part of the crank breather. I finally got my hand down under the manifold and found it - a huge leak.

The head and intake manifold were not mating well. The Suby motor uses a pressed metal gasket and I did slightly bend it when pulling off the intake. It really sucks when the gasket sticks to the manifold on one end and the head on the other. Of course, there is no room to get your hand in there to separate so you just pull. My mistake. At least I had another set from the second motor.

The other night I pulled the intake. Of course, this means removing the intercooler, the DS turbo and a bunch of connections. I admit the single turbo setup is considerably less complicated. I only loosened up enough to lift up the intake and slide out the old gasket. Yep, it was crinkled like a potato chip. I got the new gasket, slathered a very thin layer of CurilT as extra insurance and got it back into place. Next, I tightened up the intake bolts and pressurized to about 40psi. No more leak! It holds pressure nicely so it should be ready for boost.

Shifter: I found a crack in the cable housing support. This keeps the housing of the push-pull cables on the shifter from sliding back and forth. I started to epoxy the crack and then decided it was not worth the chance of breaking again. So I made a new aluminum support. I might have to break down and order some custom cables for replacement. I also changed the cable routing for a smoother arc. big improvement. This should smooth out the shifting and reduce the effort. Actually, its not bad now. It feels like a 911 shifter the first time you shift with new bushings. Tight but direct.

I think I may have figured out the cooling system. I was previously purging all the air out but it would boil over at the first sign of heat. After much deliberation including complete removal of the thermostat I found that had the overflow canister connected to the wrong port on the purge canister. I just switched two hoses and everything seems to be working fine.

The overflow tank has three ports. One is the return line from the heater circuit and water cooling jackets, the second I had connected to the overflow tank and the third was not-connected. When pressure would build in the system it would just blow coolant out into the overflow tank. I just capped this second hose off after checking the factory manual. I found that this connection is an air-=bubble return on the automatic radiator bleed system. I do not need it since I have a remote bleeder at the front of the car. I capped this off and moved my overflow tank connection to the third port. The system pressurizes and seems to be bleeding correctly. Radiator is plenty hot. I now have to hook up the laptop and verify my temperatures.

I think I might be on the downhill slope to keeping Penny cool.

Until next time.

Oh Yeah, I did take Penny for a drive around the block. I scared some neighbors in the process. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif). Nothing like a twin turbo open pipe/zork setup. I will start to fabricate some new mufflers this week to quiet it down.

I will get the wideband connected this week sometime and then start tuning it. The previous tune runs a little lean and has poor throttle transition. I am not taking it into boost until I can verify the AFR. Easy to fix.

I also need to get the tach working again. I am having a signal problem.

[jpnovak]

Finally making progress.

1. High Idle. I previously fixed a high idle. But the idle was still too high. All the adjustment had been dialed out of the throttle body. The plate was as close as I could get it without scraping the sidewall. My last suspect was a sticking idle air control valve (IAC).

Tonight I went out and pulled it off the car. I thought it had the typical dirt problem and just needed to be cleaned. Then I discovered that the vane is connected to the solenoid with a magnetic pin. The vane is adjustable and had come out of adjustment. So, I cleaned it, adjusted on the bench and put some power to it. It opened as it should. Back in the car, turned the key and then unplugged the valve. Worked perfectly. Idle is now adjusted to about 700 rpm.

2. Mixture. The mixture always seemed a little lean. I could not verify previously because the narrow band O2 sensor just was not accurate. I connected an Innovate LC1 and have it working properly. What a big difference. Yes, the car was a bit lean for me. Now I can properly tune the car.

3. Steering wheel. The stock wheel was in great condition. Too bad my knees and the bottom of the wheel are just too intimate. So, I swapped it for an old Momo wheel I had on the shelf. Much better clearance. Next step is to pull the hub and modify it for the back collar and horn ring. 4 holes to drill and tap and I am all set. I am probably going to put a quick release on it as well. Once I put a decent seat in the car it will simplify egress.

4. Door handle. The DS exterior door handle quit working. Today I pulled apart the door to investigate. I found that stupid plastic part that pushed on the release catch to be laying in the bottom of the door. I guess Its time to fix that. I also lubricated the door latch assembly and window frame. They are both happy and moving freely now.
Next step is to put some type of muffler on the car. I am going to run twin can mufflers off each turbo and then bring them together GT3 style behind the transmission. Should look pretty cool when finished.

[jpnovak]

Yesterday I managed a little time in the garage to do some cutting and welding. Usually this is too loud late at night after work. So I had a large bin of misc. mandrel bends from last year. Dug them out and found a few that fit my needs. The result after an hour or so was twin exhaust off the twin turbo. Later tonight I can pull each side off and finish weld the connections. I eventually plan to connect the rear with a gt3 style pipe around the rear valence. That will wait.

Today I got the exhaust welded up. I also swapped out the old MOMO wheel that was on the shelf. Its very worn and split but fits so much better. I had fun drilling the back of the hub to accept the filler cap and horn ring. I did not realize that the installation was so much different than a 911. Now if I could just get a horn button that fits everything would be great. The one I have is too large OD.

Late this afternoon I took the car out for a little run. I was never more than 2 blocks from the house considering I did not have plates and the numbers on the side kinda call attention to the car. Tuning the car is much different than the 911. I have to rethink the AFRs where the car is happy. It likes to run much leaner than a 911. Must be those modern 4 valve heads with a central spark plug. I have not even started tuning timing yet until I have the AFR in check.

I have to say the blow off valve makes cool noises when it dumps. It even kicks in when the car is not under boost. This means I am quickly pressurizing the IC but not actually the intake. I never went over 14% TPS according to the datalog.

I GOTTA GET PLATES AND TIRES. I so want to have fun and start driving it.

[RonW]

jamie,
loved reading thru your thread. great work!!!

not sure if this would be any help but this is from my current tune. i dont know how to convert g/rev that the stock ecu uses to kPa that ms uses but perhaps as a reference its useful

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[jpnovak]

Ron, How much boost are you running at WOT? This will allow me to convert the g/rev. This is a mass airflow conversion based on density and stroke volume for load.

[RonW]

WOT 18#
Displacement 2.0L

note: I am running AVCS so that will alter base timing. let me boot up the laptop and ill screen shot that as well.

this will be interesting to see the conversion.

[jpnovak]

Cool. What is your boost control profile?

Also, Are you taking it to 8K? I have only been to about 5K with mine so far.

[RonW]

I am running a manual boost controller. both tuners i interviewed (one of whom did my tune) discouraged the ebc or even the hybrid i initially had set up. they said they'd do it but stated the tune with the mbc would be better so i pulled the ebc and just ran a straight mbc

here is the avcs table

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/iwolfe.com-5340-1361208481.1.jpg)

[RonW]

oh and yes, taken to 8K (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

btw, ive got an extra MBC if you want it, a donation to the 2013 Build. its the one on the Left. the one of the right is the ebc i was going to run.

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[jpnovak]

OK. g/rev = (pulse width / (2707.09 / injector flow rate))

Are you running stock injectors? These should be 540cc/hr. If so, I can easily calculate a pw table for MS.

The timing table really helps too.

[jpnovak]

Great suggestion on the boost controller. I currently integrated the MS to the stock boost controller but I think it is dumping before I get boost. Safety factor while I get the car running well.

[RonW]

they are the stock ones yes, pink's and i believe that is correct flow rate.

pm me your address and i'll send off the mbc tomorrow.

edit: in the interim, just hook up the nipple on the compressor housing directly to the iwg (bypassing any controller). then you will have around 8# boost, the least you can have. this is the force the from iwg spring holding the wg shut.

[Chi Town]

Amazing and inspiring build!

I have not yet purchased my first 914, trying to get a feel for them first. Your thread is great! Thank you for detailing so much!

[jpnovak]

@Chi Town - Thanks for the compliments

Ron, Do you have any pulsewidth numbers? Your fuel table is the target AFR for the open loop running. this is a strange way of presenting load as it should be a target table for a closed-loop system.

[RonW]

@Chi Town - Thanks for the compliments

Ron, Do you have any pulsewidth numbers? Your fuel table is the target AFR for the open loop running. this is a strange way of presenting load as it should be a target table for a closed-loop system.

no, no pw numbers. i thought it was odd too. cant really wrap my brain around how the ecu responds to inputs and the tuning methodology. its not like the MS that uses the fuel/VE table for a fixed amount of fuel delivered under open loop situations. in the case of closed loop, compares measured ARF to the target AFR table and increases / decreases fuel from the VE table via pwm or something to that effect. this would be for closed loop operation or when tuning with VEAL or even manual by look at logs via mlv. this is a comparison of load (kpa) vs engine speed (rpm)


suby really relies on MAF and engine speed. MAF is basically a hot wire and is at a specific temperature, the more air passes over it, the cooler it will become. the ecu then adds more voltage to the MAF wire to heat it to that temp up and thus is able to determine how much air is flowing into the system based on that additional voltage. with that and the engine speed it knows where it is on the table. it compares the AFR to the target and give it more/less fuel. but what i dont get is how much fuel does it know to start with ??? closed or open. i dont get it

[jpnovak]

Ron, I think I cracked the code.

The 2.8 value should correspond to your 18psi. If you scale the rest of the values by a (260kPa/18psi) the lowest value corresponds to 23 kPa. My car idles about 31 kPa so this is just about right to idle in the lowest corner of the map.

The rest of the values are just a linear distribution of the load table. In my case, I just scale by MAP reading. Simple. Effective.

Now if I could just figure out a way so that I did not have to type all those numbers in by hand. Ouch!

I can use the timing table and the target AFR table. Your cam setup will be slightly different and this will effect fuel values. No problem. I will just tune to the target AFR. Easy. I admit I was unsure how lean/rich to make these engines under boost. I found some info that said 11:1 under WOT boost was a great target. I see you are mostly a 10.8:1 so this is slightly more rich.

I am also surprised how much timing is pulled out at 18psi. Must be ready for a big bang to delay timing and pressure onset that late. Such great information.

Tomorrow I can start the number input game.

[RonW]

Jamie,
thats awesome. glad you were able to use it. now to enter 18x16 tables by hand. watch out for carpal tunnel syndrome (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

oh, i was reading for FMIC 11:1 to 11.5:1 while TMIC 10.5:1 to 11:1 as a guide for reliable power but for more aggressive tune, up to 12:1 yikes!

i want video since you dont post pics fucker

[jpnovak]

I guess Ron thinks I don't have any pictures.

First, how many Victoracers can you fit in the trunk of your daily driver? In my case, One, Two, Thrr-eee. It takes 3 VictoRacers to fill up the daily driver trunk.


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Armed with new rubber I went on to the next step. Today I started to tune the motor. Mostly low rpm. Still have not achieved boost. I need someone to drive while I tune. Auto tune (VEAL) works but I prefer to tune by hand.

Anyway, here are some pictures in the driveway.


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