Blue Porscheru Conversion, Subaru 2.5 SOHC NA with Suby Tranny Options

[R_u_dd]

Engine Install


Engine is now back in and mounted. The good news is that the axles are going to work fine. We put up the 944 CV joint and it seems to work fine with 3" of offset and about 12 degrees of angle. This means the trunk won't have to be cut up or the manifold flipped. The starter and clutch slave all clear the trunk.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476060192.1.jpg)


Dozer is ready for the engine and that new cat of ours. We used a transmission lift for the engine and two hydraulic lifts to jack up the car. Bye the way, Dozer recently fathered 13 boxer pups!


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476060192.2.jpg)


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476060193.3.jpg)


Here it is in the car. It's really a pretty small engine. Lot's of room in there for it.

[R_u_dd]

Header and Exhaust


I got this header in the mail. It's a nice looking piece of pipe, but doesn't fit under my engine mount. It hits at the upper line.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476060673.1.jpg)

So the plan is to make a couple cuts on the lines, and flip the left and right sides. The upper left arrow is where we would cut the flange in order to flip it and point the pipes to the back of the car.

If we weld it all carefully, it should still function as a header. Does this sound like a good strategy?

I was not able to find a lot on what people have done with their headers, so if you have any pictures, that would be great!

[R_u_dd]

Shifter Linkage Bracket

The shifter linkage has been weighing on my mind for some time. I finally got around to welding it all together. There's a funny story about some of the pieces here. I am a forester and come across some very beautiful sights in the woods. Sometimes I find useful things. The other day I found a lawnmower handle that has just the right bend in it for this application. So, I scrounged it on home and you see it here with the square hole.

I used a couple great established threads here with lots of pictures to size these pieces up. I felt like this was an easy enough design that I could make myself. Ian's design is a lot more compact, but this one is a little simpler to design.

It is for the MR2 shifter:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476063299.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476063299.2.jpg)

The finished piece.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476063300.3.jpg)

End Cap. My hole was too big and I had to weld it again. Needs to be the same diameter as the cable threading.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476063300.4.jpg)

1. This piece needs to be more perpendicular. Rewelded it. Now the cable takes a straight path to where it needs to be.

2. Hole center moved down a bit to line up cables straighter.

3. Hole made smaller to cable diameter threading. (Less play in the shifting).

DBCooper seems to be the first to design this linkage bracket. The measurements are very helpful.

Zaney Post Number 85

Strawman Linkage Post 92

[R_u_dd]

The current look

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1476063508.1.jpg)

The ride height looks about right with the engine in.

It was a beautiful day in Oregon yesterday. There's nothing like rolling the car out into the fresh air and shiny weather for an afternoon.

[914forme]

That looks very tall to me

[JRust]

That looks very tall to me

I don't think that pic has the drivetrain in it

[914forme]

That looks very tall to me

I don't think that pic has the drivetrain in it

My point I just towed another conversion and it was sitting just as high. Luckily, the perches can be lowered, and it should bring it down to a more decent hight.

[R_u_dd]

That looks very tall to me

I don't think that pic has the drivetrain in it

It does. The last picture is the ride height with the engine installed. There's probably a good 100 pounds of stuff to put back in the car: ie, axles, gas tank, lights, wiper moter (is heavy), seats, people, dash, glass, etc. The ride height does look a little high though. I imagine once it goes bumping along the road that it will settle a little. It's the original suspension and I'm not sure but the car probably has 100k miles on it. It's not my main concern though now. I've got wiring, cooling systems, break systems, hydraulic clutch shifter, and on and on, seemingly endless work before this car is done and yet, most of the work is behind me. Just doesn't seem like it.

[mepstein]

That looks very tall to me

I don't think that pic has the drivetrain in it

It does. The last picture is the ride height with the engine installed. There's probably a good 100 pounds of stuff to put back in the car: ie, axles, gas tank, lights, wiper moter (is heavy), seats, people, dash, glass, etc. The ride height does look a little high though. I imagine once it goes bumping along the road that it will settle a little. It's the original suspension and I'm not sure but the car probably has 100k miles on it. It's not my main concern though now. I've got wiring, cooling systems, break systems, hydraulic clutch shifter, and on and on, seemingly endless work before this car is done and yet, most of the work is behind me. Just doesn't seem like it.

You need to adjust the spring height on the rear and the torsion bars on the front.

[R_u_dd]

[/quote]
You need to adjust the spring height on the rear and the torsion bars on the front.
[/quote]

Thanks for the advice. I did not know they were adjustable.

[mbseto]

This whole thread is a fantastic read. Car's looking great, bet you can't wait to drive it!

[914forme]

That looks very tall to me

I don't think that pic has the drivetrain in it

It does. The last picture is the ride height with the engine installed. There's probably a good 100 pounds of stuff to put back in the car: ie, axles, gas tank, lights, wiper moter (is heavy), seats, people, dash, glass, etc. The ride height does look a little high though. I imagine once it goes bumping along the road that it will settle a little. It's the original suspension and I'm not sure but the car probably has 100k miles on it. It's not my main concern though now. I've got wiring, cooling systems, break systems, hydraulic clutch shifter, and on and on, seemingly endless work before this car is done and yet, most of the work is behind me. Just doesn't seem like it.

Depends on your shocks some adjustable perches IE. Bilstiens. Some no so much.IE KYB, if they are KYB, scrape up the funds to buy anything else you can find.

also great work the linkage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[JRust]

Holy cow yes you need to bring that sucker down quite a bit. I thought for sure that was without the drivetrain. Unless of course you were going for that rally car build (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) . Looking good besides that bud. Bummer your going to have it drivable just in time for winter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Still your going to have it drivable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Seriously cool

[R_u_dd]

also great work the linkage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
[/quote]

I put the linkage together last night and still need some adjustments. The cable that goes at a 90 degree angle from the back needs to be much longer than the cable that adjusts up and down and faces straight to the front. I currently have two 90 inch cables. One of them will have to be replaced with a 102 to 112 inch cable. Also, they don't come with all the nuts they need.

Anyone have ideas on the header? Does it look like I've got a good plan-> ie cut, move and reweld?

[R_u_dd]

We've been slowly working away at the wiring, radiator lines and clutch plate. The radiator hose was plumbed with 1" line under the car with rubber hose and galvanized pipe for armor against rocks and other stuff bouncing around. Since the hose at the radiator an engine is different sized, I had to use some copper pipe fitting from the hardware store to make it all work.

Scott is under the hood with the wiring now. I made a dash board out of brushed aluminum that matches the gauge cluster. I worked out a bracket for the master brake cylinder and the clutch master. The axles are done.

Now I have a bunch of questions for you guys:

What size hydraulic clutch lines work with the Suby? I found some 3/8 inch (4.8mm) at the parts store which actually thread into the Suby Clutch master, but not tightly. Looks like they need to by metric fittings 5mm?

Battery threads? Looking at all the batteries people use with the 914 between Optima and Odyssey, which is best? I am leaning toward a smaller lead acid battery, because I won't be driving this car in the rain. The Odyssey batteries people are using, the 680 and 925 don't seem to have enough juice. I think I need about 500 CCA but the battery sites recommend a 650 CCA battery for the 2.5 engine.

What are you guys using for an accelerator cable that goes from the 914 pedal to the Suby engine?

On the fuel lines, I've got the stainless 8mm hard lines in the tunnel. What do you recommend for the rest?

Anyone have a good mirror recommendation- something small for the top of the A pillar? Does that seem crazy?

This thing is coming together fast and I am just trying to button up all of the systems. Thanks for your replies, Chris...

[Chris H.]

We've been slowly working away at the wiring, radiator lines and clutch plate. The radiator hose was plumbed with 1" line under the car with rubber hose and galvanized pipe for armor against rocks and other stuff bouncing around. Since the hose at the radiator an engine is different sized, I had to use some copper pipe fitting from the hardware store to make it all work.

Scott is under the hood with the wiring now. I made a dash board out of brushed aluminum that matches the gauge cluster. I worked out a bracket for the master brake cylinder and the clutch master. The axles are done.

Now I have a bunch of questions for you guys:

What size hydraulic clutch lines work with the Suby? I found some 3/8 inch (4.8mm) at the parts store which actually thread into the Suby Clutch master, but not tightly. Looks like they need to by metric fittings 5mm?

Battery threads? Looking at all the batteries people use with the 914 between Optima and Odyssey, which is best? I am leaning toward a smaller lead acid battery, because I won't be driving this car in the rain. The Odyssey batteries people are using, the 680 and 925 don't seem to have enough juice. I think I need about 500 CCA but the battery sites recommend a 650 CCA battery for the 2.5 engine.

What are you guys using for an accelerator cable that goes from the 914 pedal to the Suby engine?

On the fuel lines, I've got the stainless 8mm hard lines in the tunnel. What do you recommend for the rest?

Anyone have a good mirror recommendation- something small for the top of the A pillar? Does that seem crazy?

This thing is coming together fast and I am just trying to button up all of the systems. Thanks for your replies, Chris...

Replied to your PM on the clutch lines Chris. Many/most of us have been using -3AN. Fits in the clutch tube. Sent the part #s for the parts that you definitely need. You might want to consider the Honda Civic clutch. Really a nice fit for the Subaru setup. whether you go that way or not we can help you with the Subaru end. DO NOT use something that sort of fits. We'll find the right thread size.

The only difference on the accelerator cable is the engine end. You just need a cable stop that fits the car you are swapping to. I think Kent said the 914 stop worked fine. Otherwise you can look it up online and buy the Subaru cable stop or just go to a flaps and buy an assortment. If you need a longer cable call terry cable and they will make you a custom length cable. If you flipped the intake yours is probably fine.

[R_u_dd]

From Chris H.

What you want for the pressurized lines is -3AN. Best bet is to buy it from Summit Racing. I'll pass on a recommendation I heard to only buy Aeroquip.

The hose I used is this:

AER-FCC0310

This fits INSIDE the clutch tube preventing flex for a good portion of the run. It's also a litttle long in case you forget to undo it when removing the engine/trans someday.

Banjo fitting for Subaru trans end:

AER-FBM3091

What master are you using? I would use the Civic. Let me know and I can give you some pointers on the other fittings.

Chris

[914forme]

I am using a battery out of a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Miata Sealed, Gel Mat and small plenty of cranking amps. And not that expensive.

Though the idea of using a small array of laptop batteries running under the floor has caught my attention and building a 914 das 914, but then I am full of ideas and some of them are (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif)

Scott has one in his car, tucked in the lower gas tank area, seems to work fine for him. Never seen him have an issue firing up that beast. It is a 2.5L also with some extra (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) I am not sure which battery he is using looks like an Odyssey to me.

[rhodyguy]

Do you guys do the timing belt, and that goes with it, before the final install of these engines?

[914forme]

Yes