 Blue Porscheru Conversion, Subaru 2.5 SOHC NA with Suby Tranny |
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| Andyrew |
 Jul 29 2015, 01:10 PM
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#21
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Spooling.... Please wait  Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California 
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QUOTE(R_u_dd @ Jul 29 2015, 07:31 AM)  I really like your thread (link in signature line of your post). Taking interest in your radiator mounting. Where's the fill cap? Fill will be similar to the Audi setup, its going to be in the engine bay and will be run on a loop system so it constantly removes air from the system. Check out Mike Bellis's setup. or the below post http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2174608 |
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| R_u_dd |
Jul 29 2015, 10:46 PM
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#22
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Blasting
After hours of sanding and slow progress, I looked into other methods of paint removal. Sand Blasting can warp the metal and leave sand in the crevices . The acid bath is not too convenient where I live. Talking to a friend, he recommended these guys with a mobile bead blaster. In this method, they use tiny glass beads in water with a rust inhibitor. They will come to your home and blast your car. Here's a video of them doing my car and the website if you are in the Southern Oregon area. www.green-cleanblasting.com Link Here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE9URMdOf0o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTOA89WR7PY This process only takes a few hours and they are able to get in the crevices that are real tough to clean. Once the car is blasted, the rust inhibitor will prevent flash rust for a few days giving you time to clean the car and apply primer- we used epoxy primer. The epoxy primer hardens in about a week, so we then coated it with a urethane primer. Blasting the car was quite revealing. The left rear quarter panel had quite a bit of bondo. In fact all the panels needed work... |
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| R_u_dd |
Jul 30 2015, 12:11 AM
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#23
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Engine Work
Related Threads: Christmas in April Decision to Subarize or not to Subarize Engine Choices Poll on Best Engine Choices Out with the old and in with the ru... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236672.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236672.2.jpg) The original 1.7 has been sitting for at least a decade. It ran before it sat... sound familiar. I decided that it was not worth it to rebuild the 1.7, but to go the suby route. All the parts you see came from the same Subaru Impreza TS (2003). I got the ECU, engine, tranny from the same car. I am replacing the head gaskets, clutch, water pump and timing belt. SOHC NA - No Turbo, 2.5 litre, 165 HP, 164 Torque Engine Work Videos Subaru Engine Build Series Ratchets and Wrenches Timing Belt Removal / Timing Belt Replacement (Timing marks at 3:50) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27egytbdxUQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgTQGko3SZM Here's the engine- arrived from Canada in April of 2015- See Christmas in April thread. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236672.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236672.4.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236672.5.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236672.6.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236672.7.jpg) Small Car Performance oil pan is low profile yet increases oil capacity to 5 quarts. I like that it's flat and designed to be strong enough to support the engine in needed. Engine mount is also from Small Car. It will be welded up against the stock engine bracket/brace. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236673.8.jpg) Side view of the oil pan and engine mount. Notice the oil dipstick tube goes through the engine mount. Cool design. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236673.9.jpg) Shiny flywheel back from the machine shop. I had the same shop machine the heads, install the head gaskets and adjust the valves. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438236673.10.jpg) Nest steps... Replace timing belt and cover. Replace manifold. Convert transmission to 2wd- waiting for Bremar locking socket to arrive in the mail. Mate the engine to the transmission Fit the engine in place to weld the engine mount to the bracket. Measure the axles to cut and respline. |
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| mgp4591 |
Jul 30 2015, 12:28 AM
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#24
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,510 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region
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Do you have the cast engine bracket or the other style? I've seldom seen the cast style weld up strong enough to the brackets to be safe enough for my tastes- not pointing fingers or anything, just curious as to what others are doing for the Subie mounting situation... Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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| 914forme |
Jul 30 2015, 11:19 AM
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#25
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None
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The Small Car mounts are pretty robust steel. If that part fails you have bigger problems!!
I used it on mine, as have a few others, and, it works great especially if you want modify it. Mine was cut, sectioned, welded, to move my EG33 forward, worked great Keep up the great build. |
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| sean_v8_914 |
Jul 30 2015, 12:53 PM
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#26
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
that blue 914 pic is at my shop...many years ago. cool memories there
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| whitetwinturbo |
Jul 30 2015, 12:55 PM
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#27
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Honey, does this wing make my ass look fat? Group: Members Posts: 1,391 Joined: 22-October 11 From: Newport Beach/Kalefornya/USA Member No.: 13,704 Region Association: Southern California |
Pictures!
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| R_u_dd |
Jul 30 2015, 10:18 PM
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#28
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Jul 29 2015, 11:28 PM) Do you have the cast engine bracket or the other style? I've seldom seen the cast style weld up strong enough to the brackets to be safe enough for my tastes- not pointing fingers or anything, just curious as to what others are doing for the Subie mounting situation... Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Looks like it's welded steel to me. The cast mount is used in the later models with the pass-through hole for the shift rod on the side shifter transmission. The plan is to follow the design of Amenson in his PorSti Build as shown in post #2. He drills through and bolts onto the bracket rather than welding directly to it. My goal is to try to mount the engine forward as much as possible to center the engine in the engine bay and avoid cutting the trunk. Since there is no turbo, I should have enough clearance to avoid cutting the trunk even if it has to be mounted further back than I would like. The axles will need to be aligned at a slight angle for proper lubrication of the CV joints. It will be a critical step to mount the engine correctly. It is also important to get the transmission level to keep 4th and 5th gear oiled properly. |
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| mgp4591 |
Jul 30 2015, 10:29 PM
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#29
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,510 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region
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QUOTE(R_u_dd @ Jul 30 2015, 10:18 PM) QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Jul 29 2015, 11:28 PM) Do you have the cast engine bracket or the other style? I've seldom seen the cast style weld up strong enough to the brackets to be safe enough for my tastes- not pointing fingers or anything, just curious as to what others are doing for the Subie mounting situation... Thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) The plan is to follow the design of Amenson in his PorSti Build as shown in post #2. He drills through and bolts onto the bracket rather than welding directly to it. My goal is to try to mount the engine forward as much as possible to center the engine in the engine bay and avoid cutting the trunk. Since there is no turbo, I should have enough clearance to avoid cutting the trunk even if it has to be mounted further back than I would like. The axles will need to be aligned at a slight angle for proper lubrication of the CV joints. It will be a critical step to mount the engine correctly. It is also important to get the transmission level to keep 4th and 5th gear oiled properly. I thought I'd studied that thread over and over- somehow I missed that bit right there! That's exactly what I was looking for, and the other comments give me confidence to use that for my EG33 swap- thanks for the help! |
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| R_u_dd |
Jul 30 2015, 10:29 PM
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#30
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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| R_u_dd |
Jul 30 2015, 10:31 PM
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#31
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(sean_v8_914 @ Jul 30 2015, 11:53 AM) that blue 914 pic is at my shop...many years ago. cool memories there Please tell me the story behind it! |
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| mgp4591 |
Jul 30 2015, 10:32 PM
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#32
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,510 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region
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QUOTE(914forme @ Jul 30 2015, 11:19 AM) The Small Car mounts are pretty robust steel. If that part fails you have bigger problems!! I used it on mine, as have a few others, and, it works great especially if you want modify it. Mine was cut, sectioned, welded, to move my EG33 forward, worked great Keep up the great build. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) Thanks! |
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| 914forme |
Aug 1 2015, 07:08 AM
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#34
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None
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QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Jul 31 2015, 12:29 AM) I thought I'd studied that thread over and over- somehow I missed that bit right there! That's exactly what I was looking for, and the other comments give me confidence to use that for my EG33 swap- thanks for the help! I had one issue with small car mount on my swap. Oil filter clearance. Got the darn thing all welded up, and could not get the filter on the mount. Its a little tight. I will be running a Accusump so my plan is to run remote oil filters, and a cooler, with the Accusump. I should just dryjsump this thing, but then I would be into it for way more than a 911 swap. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) If you read my thread, I think you will get an idea of how far the engine can go forward with the small car mount. I have almost no trunk floor cutting. Except for the clutch slave, and well that hole could have been a lot smaller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) realized I never took pics of the mount its self and the issue I was having. Could have sworn I did (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) |
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| DBCooper |
Aug 1 2015, 07:55 AM
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#35
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14's in the 13's with ATTITUDE Group: Members Posts: 3,079 Joined: 25-August 04 From: Dazed and Confused Member No.: 2,618 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 1 2015, 06:08 AM) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) If you read my thread, I think you will get an idea of how far the engine can go forward with the small car mount. I have almost no trunk floor cutting. Except for the clutch slave, and well that hole could have been a lot smaller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) realized I never took pics of the mount its self and the issue I was having. Could have sworn I did (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I also got the Smallcar mount but ended up not able to use it. It's really well-made and and compact, works well for non-turbo cars, but isn't compatible with a turbo setup where the exhaust from the left side has to cross over to the right across the front of the engine. That's right where the Smallcar mount goes. It's possible, I suppose, but would mean you'd have to relocate the turbo and do a lot of custom plumbing. I've never seen anyone put it on their list, but one of the nice things about the non-turbo engines is that you'll end up with an equal-length exhaust, which gets rid of the typical Subaru exhaust burble. With an equal-length exhaust they sound really good when they get into the upper RPM range. My son joked about driving his 914/WRX to work and for weeks a WRX owner kept trying to spot the other turbo Subaru he was sure he was hearing come into the parking lot, never thinking it was the 914. Was startled when he finally figured it out. By the way, with an Accusump you won't need it, but the Killerbee windage tray works pretty well to prevent oil starvation, and not too expensive. |
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| R_u_dd |
Aug 1 2015, 11:19 AM
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#36
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 1 2015, 06:08 AM) QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Jul 31 2015, 12:29 AM) I thought I'd studied that thread over and over- somehow I missed that bit right there! That's exactly what I was looking for, and the other comments give me confidence to use that for my EG33 swap- thanks for the help! I had one issue with small car mount on my swap. Oil filter clearance. Got the darn thing all welded up, and could not get the filter on the mount. Its a little tight. I will be running a Accusump so my plan is to run remote oil filters, and a cooler, with the Accusump. I should just dryjsump this thing, but then I would be into it for way more than a 911 swap. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) If you read my thread, I think you will get an idea of how far the engine can go forward with the small car mount. I have almost no trunk floor cutting. Except for the clutch slave, and well that hole could have been a lot smaller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) realized I never took pics of the mount its self and the issue I was having. Could have sworn I did (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Looks like you pushed the EG33 quite a bit forward. I was considering the Subaru tranny mount underneath my hanger bracket to use the rubber bumpers for vibration. Looks like most people mount the rubber bumpers up top like the stock position. Better Clearance? I had no problem with oil filter clearance. My oil filter is a small one though. I'm going with stock oil filterage- no accusump. Would like to see some pictures of the engine mount if you don't mind taking some. The 914 visualizer in your post is very cool. |
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| R_u_dd |
Aug 1 2015, 01:41 PM
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#37
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Cool Videos
Porsche 914-6 Race Practice At Targa Florio 1970 | 1969 Porsche 914 period official promotional footage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkojP5Dyj5Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcNBlaFqiL4 Topspeed Petrolicious the FORGOTTEN porsche | Porsche 914 International Meeting 2015 - Bad Gögging https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFlIjomJStQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2T74PHs8oTs Brodi 914's Gone Wild Subaru Conversion SVX | vintage! The VW-Porsche 914 | drive it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1G1a7fd3Ph0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad2qOUUSHTY 1994 HSR Savannah Georgia. 914 25 year anniversary. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjKvXKJ_Lmw Link to_Historic Porsche Factory Photos Link to Best 914 Ever Thread |
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| R_u_dd |
Aug 5 2015, 11:42 PM
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#38
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Member Group: Members Posts: 154 Joined: 3-March 14 From: Grants Pass, Oregon Member No.: 17,072 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Electrolysis Gas Tank Cleaning.
Like so many other 914's mine had a rusty fuel tank. Cleaning the inside of the gas tank is tricky since you can't reach in and sand it, so after some research I tried lots of different suggestions to try to clean it. One could combine weight training with car antiquing and shake a chain or nails or whatever inside the tank. I tried acid ie apple vinegar. None of these things seemed to work until I came across electrolysis. This is a very interesting technique. Anyone who has tried precipitating silver in chemistry class might be familiar with this technique. You take a piece of steel and suspend it in water in your gas tank with some baking soda as catalyst and it moves the rust from your tank into the water. It's pulling electrons and iron from the metal and combining it with the rust metal to create a liquid suspended iron. My stepfather, professor emeritus in chemistry at St. Mary's College in CA explains electrolysis thus: "Some of us used it as an introduction to electrolysis in early classes – and I believe it is still used in museums as a conservation process to “clean” up relics to remove rust without losing the underlying metal." "You first of all have to understand the rusting process. In overall terms it is simply, iron + water + oxygen -----~ rust. However, the first step is Fe (solid) + 2 water +1 oxygen -----~2 Fe(+2) + 4OH(-). Depending on the environment, additional reactions take place, leading to the observation that most forms of rust are basically 2Fe(+3)3O(-2).xwater; this is a hard material which binds to the unoxidized metal." "Essentially what has happened overall is the removal of electrons from the iron; that is in chemical terms you have oxidized it. To remove the rust you can reduce it; that is, give the electrons back. These set-ups that you’re working with seem to work, but the exact mechanism isn’t clear. In your case the electrons will move from the anode Fe (i.e. the steel chunk) over to the tank which needs them to convert the Fe(+3) to Fe. The chemical reactions that occur during electrolyis are complicated since both iron oxides and water can be reduced (to hydrogen in the case of water), so specific reactions can’t be written but the appearance of bubbles is usually a sign of hydrogen. The iron from the steel chunks slowly disappears over a period of time as Fe is converted to Fe (+3) and the rust should flake off the cathode as a dusty material which probably has metallic iron mixed in. Make sure your anode (+) has a good connection to your steel chunk." Links: Lots of links and videos on this page. Cleaning the tank. I used a trickle charger for a couple weeks, but it was only 2 amps of power. If I did this again I would get a battery charger and try different settings for a faster process, but I was not in a big hurry. This process works great for removing rust, especially with odd shaped pieces like the pedal cluster and gas tank. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438839746.1.jpg) Here's another shot of the tank: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1301.photobucket.com-17072-1438839746.2.jpg) I was also able to use electolysis on the pedal cluster. In this case I dumped the cluster into a 5 gallon bucket of water and hooked up the leeds, negative to the pedal and positive to some scrap suspended into the water. Add baking soda and wait, rinse and repeat. Works great. Maybe I will try some plating which is shown in some of those videos. Anyone have experience with plating or electolysis?? |
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| mgp4591 |
Aug 5 2015, 11:57 PM
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#39
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,510 Joined: 1-August 12 From: Salt Lake City Ut Member No.: 14,748 Region Association: Intermountain Region
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QUOTE(DBCooper @ Aug 1 2015, 07:55 AM) QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 1 2015, 06:08 AM) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) If you read my thread, I think you will get an idea of how far the engine can go forward with the small car mount. I have almost no trunk floor cutting. Except for the clutch slave, and well that hole could have been a lot smaller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) realized I never took pics of the mount its self and the issue I was having. Could have sworn I did (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I also got the Smallcar mount but ended up not able to use it. It's really well-made and and compact, works well for non-turbo cars, but isn't compatible with a turbo setup where the exhaust from the left side has to cross over to the right across the front of the engine. That's right where the Smallcar mount goes. It's possible, I suppose, but would mean you'd have to relocate the turbo and do a lot of custom plumbing. I've never seen anyone put it on their list, but one of the nice things about the non-turbo engines is that you'll end up with an equal-length exhaust, which gets rid of the typical Subaru exhaust burble. With an equal-length exhaust they sound really good when they get into the upper RPM range. My son joked about driving his 914/WRX to work and for weeks a WRX owner kept trying to spot the other turbo Subaru he was sure he was hearing come into the parking lot, never thinking it was the 914. Was startled when he finally figured it out. By the way, with an Accusump you won't need it, but the Killerbee windage tray works pretty well to prevent oil starvation, and not too expensive. Did you sell your Smallcar engine mount after you decided not to use it or is it for sale? Long shot but I figured it's worth a try... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) |
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| DBCooper |
Aug 6 2015, 07:45 AM
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#40
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14's in the 13's with ATTITUDE Group: Members Posts: 3,079 Joined: 25-August 04 From: Dazed and Confused Member No.: 2,618 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Aug 5 2015, 10:57 PM) Did you sell your Smallcar engine mount after you decided not to use it or is it for sale? Long shot but I figured it's worth a try... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I'm pretty sure they're in a bin somewhere. I've moved twice since then and during that last move hurt my back, back's still not good so still have bins stacked everywhere. How patient are you? |
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