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> Shall I say... 3.6?, my conversion thread ...
Trekkor
post Dec 3 2006, 02:03 PM
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Celebration!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

It's going to be nice.


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SirAndy
post Dec 3 2006, 02:08 PM
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QUOTE(jkeyzer @ Dec 3 2006, 11:02 AM) *

Andy, I think you should make that first pic the 914club image of the month (best Christmas present ever!). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


to make x-mas will be a tight schedule, i was actually aiming for my birthday, which is mid-january ...

either way, i can't wait ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Andy
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McMark
post Dec 3 2006, 03:02 PM
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I'm surprised and pleased by how well the lift plate worked. Making the motor in and out was EASY. Much easier than I expected. We're on a really good track to make the birthday deadline. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) The oil cooler venting won't be 100% done, but it'll be fine for street driving.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)

It's nice to make progress!
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echocanyons
post Dec 3 2006, 06:01 PM
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Lookin' good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Are the cases the same from late 83-98? Could one use that balance all of the late types of enignes on something like that?
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SirAndy
post Mar 31 2007, 12:04 AM
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well, what do you know ... i actually got almost a full day of working on the car today.

if mark hadn't forgotten the code for his own garage, i could have gotten even more done ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


turns out, it was actually good to have stepped back from the car for a while.
i'm freshly motivated and at the end of the day, it looked like we're pretty close to get her fired up for the first time.

i'll be putting in two more full days this upcoming week.

can't wait to drive her around the block!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Andy
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michelko
post Mar 31 2007, 01:42 AM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 3 2006, 11:06 AM) *

voila!


Hi ANdy,
is it a common practice not to use the screw holes for the engine mount? I am on the way to weld in my mount and i am not sure if i should use the screw or weld them like you did.

NIce work on your car Hope you can drive soon

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markb
post Mar 31 2007, 02:02 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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McMark
post Mar 31 2007, 03:20 AM
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If you've got a welder, why bother making extra holes in the body. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Set it on the lip, center it and ZAP!
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michelko
post Mar 31 2007, 04:22 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 31 2007, 01:20 AM) *

If you've got a welder, why bother making extra holes in the body. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Set it on the lip, center it and ZAP!


Thats my thougt, but i have no expierience with the rj mount. The instructions says bolt and welding. So you think the welding is enough? It´s also a cleaner installation.

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ClayPerrine
post Mar 31 2007, 07:59 AM
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QUOTE(michelko @ Mar 31 2007, 05:22 AM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 31 2007, 01:20 AM) *

If you've got a welder, why bother making extra holes in the body. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Set it on the lip, center it and ZAP!


Thats my thougt, but i have no expierience with the rj mount. The instructions says bolt and welding. So you think the welding is enough? It´s also a cleaner installation.

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I got my six mount from Rich Johnson. It was never bolted, just welded. If there is a good welder, the bolts are not needed. Rich said the bolt in is just so you can drivethe car to someone who can weld the mount in for you. And I had the body shop do it while it was there. I even had them weld in the holes for the bolts in for extra strength.

I would have no problem putting a 3.6 on one of these mounts with just a good welding job holding it in.
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thesey914
post Mar 31 2007, 09:38 AM
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Michelko, I was considering the same thing, plus I have lost the frickin' inventory list which details the lengths of the bolts to buy. So is it necessary to weld as much around the perimeter? I remember in RJ instructions only a couple of inches long in 2 places are req. ?
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michelko
post Mar 31 2007, 11:07 AM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Mar 31 2007, 05:59 AM) *

QUOTE(michelko @ Mar 31 2007, 05:22 AM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 31 2007, 01:20 AM) *

If you've got a welder, why bother making extra holes in the body. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Set it on the lip, center it and ZAP!


Thats my thougt, but i have no expierience with the rj mount. The instructions says bolt and welding. So you think the welding is enough? It´s also a cleaner installation.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge6.gif)



I got my six mount from Rich Johnson. It was never bolted, just welded. If there is a good welder, the bolts are not needed. Rich said the bolt in is just so you can drivethe car to someone who can weld the mount in for you. And I had the body shop do it while it was there. I even had them weld in the holes for the bolts in for extra strength.

I would have no problem putting a 3.6 on one of these mounts with just a good welding job holding it in.


That makes sense!! Now i have a good feeling on not to use the screws.

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michelko
post Mar 31 2007, 11:08 AM
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QUOTE(thesey914 @ Mar 31 2007, 07:38 AM) *

Michelko, I was considering the same thing, plus I have lost the frickin' inventory list which details the lengths of the bolts to buy. So is it necessary to weld as much around the perimeter? I remember in RJ instructions only a couple of inches long in 2 places are req. ?


James,
if you still need the length of the screws i can measure them from the original parts bag for you.

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michelko
post Mar 31 2007, 11:11 AM
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Here is an part of the mounting instruction.

Hardware Kit (Optional)

- Two 911 engine mounts.
- Four 8mm X 20mm bolts with spring washers (8) and nylock inserted lock nuts (4).
- Two 911 engine mount safety washers (2.5 inch OD, 13mm ID).
- Two 12mm X 100mm sport mount bolts with two 12mm bottom washers (12mm ID, 25mm OD), two bottom lock washers and two 12mm nylock inserted lock nuts.
- Two 12mm X 60mm bulkhead support mounting bolts with 12mm spring washers (4) and two nylock inserted lock nuts.
- Two 18mm OD, 12mm ID X 1” long crush prevention sleeves.
- Two 12mm X 40mm bulkhead support mounting bolts with 12mm spring washers (4) and two nylock inserted lock nuts.
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SirAndy
post Mar 31 2007, 11:17 AM
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QUOTE(thesey914 @ Mar 31 2007, 07:38 AM) *

So is it necessary to weld as much around the perimeter?


probably overkill, but while you're in there and the welder is still hot, why not.
it's only $0.27 in gas and wire ...

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thesey914
post Apr 2 2007, 07:29 AM
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Thanks michelko, I'm going to bolt + weld. I'd just like to have belt & braces + my welder is only 130amp and would struggle at anything above 3mm. I reckon by 'dipping' into the bulkhead + the steel plate I could weld it very solidly -just would have this nagging doubt.
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thesey914
post Apr 2 2007, 12:46 PM
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Another thing I noticed was you also have had to grind a bit off the mount to clear the firewall shift linkage flange, have the tail shift cars had to do this?



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SirAndy
post Apr 2 2007, 03:35 PM
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QUOTE(thesey914 @ Apr 2 2007, 10:46 AM) *

Another thing I noticed was you also have had to grind a bit off the mount to clear the firewall shift linkage flange, have the tail shift cars had to do this?


nope, my mount was already notched in that area to make it fit early cars, didn't have to grind anything ...
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McMark
post Apr 2 2007, 04:37 PM
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To repeat what Andy said, that mount is universal and doesn't require griding. Drop it in place and weld it.
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thesey914
post Apr 2 2007, 05:55 PM
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Maybe I have an early version -I had to grind mine. Not a big deal, but something that could do with amending
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