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> Shall I say... 3.6?, my conversion thread ...
McMark
post Apr 27 2007, 03:23 PM
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QUOTE(db9146 @ Apr 27 2007, 08:45 AM) *

Glad to hear you're going to run a cover over the lines.....thoughts of hot oil spewing all over the inside of the car with you in it sounds too much like a Fry Daddy for me to be too comfortable w/o one.

Sort of like a Fry Andy instead!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chairfall.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)


That reminds me of the cornballer!

(IMG:http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/c/c9/Arrested_Development_-_The_Cornballer2.jpg)

RIP Arrested Development. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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John
post Apr 27 2007, 03:54 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Apr 27 2007, 12:11 PM) *


my guess is no more or less than the factory rubber oil-lines.

interestingly enough, none of the typical raceshop outlets mention anything about "fire resistant" with their braided stainless oil-lines either.

both use a similar elastomer as the main component, so i'm not sure a thin layer of stainless mesh on the outside would help much in case of direct contact with flames.
both, the braided lines and the plain lines have the same max. operating temperatur (~300F), i'm guessing both will simply melt the elastomer when exposed to much higher temperatures (flames) ...

also keep in mind that both types have another inner layer of braided mesh sandwiched between the inner rubber and the outer rubber ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) Andy



Maybe it's just me, but I like to use hydraulic hose. In -12 size it is $4.55/foot.





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SirAndy
post Apr 27 2007, 04:02 PM
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QUOTE(John @ Apr 27 2007, 01:54 PM) *

Maybe it's just me, but I like to use hydraulic hose. In -12 size it is $4.55/foot.


i dunno, i would assume that by the time you see 12000 psi in your cooler circuit, your engine has probably already turned to dust ...

seems like overkill to me.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) Andy
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John
post Apr 27 2007, 04:22 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Apr 27 2007, 02:02 PM) *


seems like overkill to me.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) Andy



Yup.

So does a 3.6 in a 914... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

I like to call it "peace of mind".

Your car is looking good. Do you have an ETA?
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thesey914
post Apr 27 2007, 04:23 PM
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Although the burst value of the hose is very high, what kind of pressure causes the hose to blow off the barbed fitting?
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SirAndy
post Apr 27 2007, 04:49 PM
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QUOTE(thesey914 @ Apr 27 2007, 02:23 PM) *

Although the burst value of the hose is very high, what kind of pressure causes the hose to blow off the barbed fitting?


the blue hose is rated for up to 250 psi ... meaning, it's still safe to operate at 250 psi.

should be plenty ... if not, you'll read about it here first ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy
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SirAndy
post Apr 27 2007, 04:51 PM
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QUOTE(John @ Apr 27 2007, 02:22 PM) *

Your car is looking good. Do you have an ETA?


yeah, i do. but that SOB keeps changing!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy

PS: i *really* want to drive it down to the AR. so, that's what, 5 more weeks?
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SirAndy
post May 5 2007, 07:42 PM
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while i was in there ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)


the wiring for the gauges was always a bit messy (the 911 dash requires rerouting some of the original wiring) so i decided now was the time to do it right.

i got a bunch of electrical connectors and added a connector (9 pin) to each gauge.
then i extended the existing wires and added connectors as well.

now i have a quick disconnect for each gauge and plenty of wire length to take them out of the dash.

i used color coded wires where possible (out of a old harness) and put labels on all the important wires and numbered the connectors.



before:

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gauges wired up:

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cluster with extended wires and connectors:

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now i can reinstall the dash and put in the new windshield ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Andy
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McMark
post May 13 2007, 08:03 PM
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 I wonder when Andy is going to finish his car? 




(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Just trying out my new smilie.
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r_towle
post May 13 2007, 08:06 PM
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its not a real car...its all AI
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McMark
post May 24 2007, 02:49 PM
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Serial Number 64R01165
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McMark
post May 24 2007, 07:28 PM
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Engine tin finished and ready for powdercoating ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)


I started with a set of patrick motorsports reproduction 914-6 engine tin.
I knew it would have to be modified to fit the 3.6L, but i have to say, for the price i paid, i was very disappointed with the overall quality of the tin.

- First, it arrived all bend and banged up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

- Second, the edges were just left unfinished after cutting the metal, so all pieces had razor sharp edges. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)
I had to file down all the tin pieces before we even got to work on making it fit ...

- Third, the fitting is poor. On one side, there's a 1/4" gap where the two pieces are supposed to butt against each other! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Patrick says that the tin will fit the 3.6L with some minor modifications. I'm not sure what they're smoking, but it must be pretty strong stuff.
We had to do some very creative sheetmetal bending, warping, hammering, welding, drilling and riveting ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Andy (from McMark's shop)


And here's the end result:

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SirAndy
post May 24 2007, 09:59 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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PRS914-6
post May 24 2007, 10:02 PM
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Andy, it looks good. It's a lot of work to do it right. It took me a weekend to get mine done. You can use the 993 OEM sheetmetal in the back if you have it. A little trimming and a few tack welds. It allows the air flow to go the proper direction and not bleed out the back. Look at the bottom piece of this picture.....
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SirAndy
post May 24 2007, 10:17 PM
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QUOTE(PRS914-6 @ May 24 2007, 08:02 PM) *

Andy, it looks good. It's a lot of work to do it right. It took me a weekend to get mine done. You can use the 993 OEM sheetmetal in the back if you have it. A little trimming and a few tack welds. It allows the air flow to go the proper direction and not bleed out the back. Look at the bottom piece of this picture.....



hey paul, yes, i used the two original side pieces in the back. i just didn't put them in the picture as they're not part of the 914-6 sheetmetal.

i cut both of those pieces to be individual and didn't tack them onto the 914-6 sheetmetal.
that part went smooth. which i can't say about the rest of the tin.

3 days worth of custom fab work in that tin!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Andy

PS: i used the stock 993 grommet holes for the plug wires and the sensor wires and just rivited them into the sheetmetal.
i'm also using the patrick throttle cable, which allowed me to use the existing throttle cable hole in the tin. no need to add another 1" hole ...

PPS: how was the initial fitting on your tin? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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PRS914-6
post May 24 2007, 11:28 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ May 24 2007, 09:17 PM) *


PPS: how was the initial fitting on your tin? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


Andy, I'm assuming you are asking how it fit when the engine went in the car? The answer to that is "no problems" The rubber around the perimeter of the engine bay connected perfectly and the gap beteeen the tin and rear suspension arm areas were equal so I was pretty happy when it was all test fit.

BTW, I used a Rich Johnson mount and it allows some adjustment but it didn't really need any.

Now if you are asking how it fit on the engine when I first bought it, that is a different story. Like you it was 2 days of work.....The side pieces were the only ones that were close.
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SirAndy
post May 30 2007, 02:35 AM
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got some more stuff done today ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)


McMark installed the new koni (yellow) adjustable shocks while i was grinding away in the engine comp. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Attached Image


we also installed the transmission portion of the JWest Sideshift-Kit,
a separate thread about that can be found here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=72363
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)


in addition, i (wet) sanded down my carbon-fiber dashboard with 500 grit to clean up some of the ugly spots that have bugged me ever since i got it from getty ...
it's going to the paintshop tomorrow to get cleaned, sprayed with a few coats of clear and polished ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

and lastly, i started with the prepp-work for the firewall portion of the JWest Sideshift-Kit. more about that later ...

i'm tired now ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif) Andy
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McMark
post May 30 2007, 02:53 AM
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It appears Andy had a 100% failure rate on his used old shocks. The fronts LITERALLY fell apart during removal (kinda like the rears). Those puppies were not doing ANYTHING near what they should have been. Andy is gonna be ripping up the AX course at the WCR. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

We are very close! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)
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SirAndy
post May 31 2007, 11:33 PM
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today was fuelpump day ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

the 993 fuelpump does not suck, so it needs to be mounted close to the tank and *underneath*.


first pic is the stock 993 fuel line. all i need is the fitting to the pump, so i cut off the rest and made a nice flared end.

original line:
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cut off part i'm going to use:
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then i mounted the pump to the fuel-door and added the hard lines and the wiring:
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backside:
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and finally, mounted in the car:
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and from the inside of the car:
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy
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So.Cal.914
post May 31 2007, 11:45 PM
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I like the fuel pump setup, Very Trick.
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