The 914 5-Lug 911 Suspension Question and Answer Thread, All you wanted to know in one place... Options

[UROpartsman]

wonderful but you would still have to have a stock 914/4 rotor drilled to 5 lug....

Or use 914-6 rotors (5x130) and have a machine shop take 2mm off the diameter, as Eric_Shea and others have mentioned.

The -4 rotor screw holes that hold rotor to the hub are not the same. -6 rotor is a drop on fit. Put the -6 rotor on the hub and see what the how it fits. Some people have reported that no machining was required. You can sand 2 mm off each pad for the thickness of the rotor, that way you may only have to take 1 mm off the diameter. You might be able to use a die grinder and take 1 mm off slot on calipers. If that works, no machining of rotor is required.

[UROpartsman]

@UROpartsman will you be making new 914 CVs at some point?

Thanks for asking, unfortunately we don't do any CV's and don't have any plans to make them in the future.

[Eric_Shea]

wonderful but you would still have to have a stock 914/4 rotor drilled to 5 lug....

Or have -6 rotors turned down a bit and reuse partially-worn pads, if necessary. (Some guys might just clearance the calipers a bit instead, but we can't officially recommend any caliper mods.)

The -4 rotor screw holes that hold rotor to the hub are not the same. -6 rotor is a drop on fit. Put the -6 rotor on the hub and see what the how it fits. Some people have reported that no machining was required. You can sand 2 mm off each pad for the thickness of the rotor, that way you may only have to take 1 mm off the diameter. You might be able to use a die grinder and take 1 mm off slot on calipers. If that works, no machining of rotor is required.

I wouldn't even "UN-officially" recommend grinding on a caliper. They are already paper thin in the pad cavity. You definitely don't have enough there to clearance a 914-6 rotor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

As Mark @914Sixer stated -4 hubs and 911/914-6 hubs have different mounting holes. Which mounting configuration (or... could you do both?) Regardless, both rotors would need machining:

914-4 Rotor would need to be machined to 5x130
914-6 Rotor would need 2mm machined off the edge

[Piledriver]

What if you could get a 5-lug rear hub that's a direct bolt-on, and uses 914-4 stock axles?

Announcement for part number 914 331 605 5 LUG coming soon!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

4 months later counts as "soon", right?
Any ETA/price on these?

[Mark Henry]

What if you could get a 5-lug rear hub that's a direct bolt-on, and uses 914-4 stock axles?

Announcement for part number 914 331 605 5 LUG coming soon!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

4 months later counts as "soon", right?
Any ETA/price on these?

These are up on the PMB website from $80 up.
PMB announced it on FB last week.

[mb911]

What if you could get a 5-lug rear hub that's a direct bolt-on, and uses 914-4 stock axles?

Announcement for part number 914 331 605 5 LUG coming soon!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

4 months later counts as "soon", right?
Any ETA/price on these?

These are up on the PMB website from $80 up.
PMB announced it on FB last week.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

And a great deal.. now some kick but CVs would be the compliment to these.

[Mark Henry]

He ya go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

https://www.pmbperformance.com/914suspensio...SlI5SCxY9pg00Jo

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pmbperformance.com-26-1614606660.1.jpg)

[Mark Henry]

It says good to 150HP which is likely conservative.

I'm going to get a set, I have all the early/alfa front kit, I'm just trying to think of what to do about studs as I have no clue if this car will be narrow body or flairs.

[horizontally-opposed]

This thread…

Really deserves a standing ovation—and particularly for the post that kicks it off. Now having been down the five-lug route twice on the same car, and thinking about doing it once more after moving from 80 hp downhill in a huricane to 180-200hp, the info here is a great way to get back up to speed.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Would be great to see the first post updated with some of Eric's knowledge gain since then, and with an analysis of 986 brake options, whether front only or front and rear. Pricing has also "evolved" a bit. As nice and period as 930 calipers look, I am having a tough time justifying them over 986 calipers on a 914—particularly with @SirAndy having tried both and preferring the 986 calipers.

But I also wonder if the same logic that puts a 911 M caliper out back with certain front brakes could allow my aluminum Brembo two-piston calipers to be moved to the back with early 911S or even 986 calipers? Or do I just go whole hog and replace my existing PMB system front and rear with 986 gear? I am a fan of a firm pedal and "too much brake" on a street car (within reason, of course).

[Piledriver]

Nice, was just going to post the're in the europarts catalog, showing in stock.

A pair of the hubs heading my way, scored a pair of 7x17, 9x17 "cup3" twists in the early offset locally a few weeks ago, so its time.
(need to finish the ez36 install in the Vanagon so it doesn't accidentally end up in the 914)

I actually need to verify I still have any 914 axles, as I used one making up some custom length t4 cv'd axles in my squareback with a 003 automatic.
... that rig has 87 944t rear susp, front 928/944T brembos out back on "965" rotors and wilwood 1.25" piston Forged Internal superlites up front currently on steel hats.

Stops like I caught an anchor on a stump wet or dry.
914 would need smaller out back, the square has 35/65 weight distribution so probably ~50/50 at 1g.

CV flanges in ~any size are available, cheap. the machining is trivial, and has been done with a 4 1/2" grinder.
(many factory cv flanges have an offset built in for some reason from what I have seen, its too much/too consistent to just be bad qa)

I always grind the cv ID for clearance when putting the t4 cvs on, rather than violate the much more highly stressed axle. (done it several times, works great, and only requires a die grinder and decent stones.

[Shivers]

"911SC Boge – These only came in the later ball joint configuration. "

Hi guy's. Am I reading this right. It appears that this option is strut only. Is that correct? This was under the 3.5. Section. And would a 74' suspension I have, make this an easier install in my 72'. Thanks for your help.

[mepstein]

Yes. SC’s used the wedge ball joint so it will switch over if yours are wedge. But check what is actually on your car, don’t assume.

Even if yours uses a pinch bolt ball joint, you just switch to the wedge ball joint. The A arm is the same.

[Mark Henry]

Yes. SC’s used the wedge ball joint so it will switch over if yours are wedge. But check what is actually on your car, don’t assume.

Even if yours uses a pinch bolt ball joint, you just switch to the wedge ball joint. The A arm is the same.

I have the 914/6 struts (Alfa calipers) on my '74, I had to swap in early ball joints.

[Shivers]

Yes. SC’s used the wedge ball joint so it will switch over if yours are wedge. But check what is actually on your car, don’t assume.

Even if yours uses a pinch bolt ball joint, you just switch to the wedge ball joint. The A arm is the same.

Thanks much for the info. Is there a spread of years to hunt down for this that have given the least amount of grief. If there is such a thing.

[Shivers]

Yes. SC’s used the wedge ball joint so it will switch over if yours are wedge. But check what is actually on your car, don’t assume.

Even if yours uses a pinch bolt ball joint, you just switch to the wedge ball joint. The A arm is the same.

I have the 914/6 struts (Alfa calipers) on my '74, I had to swap in early ball joints.

Thanks, sounds like I'll stick with the 72' stuff.

[ClayPerrine]

Zims in Bedford Texas offers a service to replace the bottom of the early pinch type ball joint struts so they will work with wedge type ball joints. I did this on the six, and it is great.

Contact @partsguy22 for more info.

Clay

[mepstein]

Yes. SC’s used the wedge ball joint so it will switch over if yours are wedge. But check what is actually on your car, don’t assume.

Even if yours uses a pinch bolt ball joint, you just switch to the wedge ball joint. The A arm is the same.

Thanks much for the info. Is there a spread of years to hunt down for this that have given the least amount of grief. If there is such a thing.

Any 3 1/2” strut will use the later ball joints.
Just remember that you will need 3 1/2” brake calipers, 911 hubs and rotors for the 3 1/2” struts.

[Shivers]

Yes. SC’s used the wedge ball joint so it will switch over if yours are wedge. But check what is actually on your car, don’t assume.

Even if yours uses a pinch bolt ball joint, you just switch to the wedge ball joint. The A arm is the same.

Thanks much for the info. Is there a spread of years to hunt down for this that have given the least amount of grief. If there is such a thing.

Any 3 1/2” strut will use the later ball joints.
Just remember that you will need 3 1/2” brake calipers, 911 hubs and rotors for the 3 1/2” struts.

Thank you. I've had everything for a dozen years, front and rear to handle the brakes. Bought them off of here. Just need hubs and struts. I was under the impression that to get 3.5" I would need to do the whole front suspension swap. Thanks for making my day guy's.

[Freezin 914]

Can someone please help identify what caliper this is, and also if anyone would know the year of this stunt assembly?

All I know it is a 3.5 bolt pattern bilstein. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Would like to use this set up for a 5 lug conversion on my 74. I am planning to buy new rotor, bearings etc..

Thank you.

[914Sixer]

Those are 74- Bilsten with 3 1/2" A calipers.