Bringing out the dead Options

[Jeff Hail]

Bringing Out The Dead.....or how to restore a rusty 914 and convert it to a street/track car when I have time after dealing with everyone elses stuff.

My background is collision and restoration (day job) of high end automobiles for 28 years in addition to race fabrication. I jumped the fence and left that industry to pursue pretty much the same thing except on the paperwork end which is really boring and thankless. (another day job)

I look at rust like a diamond in the rough. Rust is afraid of me because it know's it cannot live in my world. Metal becomes submissive because I have confidence in my metal working talents. I will add to this post as work progress's.

I hope my years of experience can help others as I add. I believe there is a right way to repair a car and wrong way. I metal finish because in the end its cleaner, lighter and stronger. I was taught old school techniques with new school technology. A great combination. I also believe in doing a job once correctly using the highest quality materials and proper tools. Many ways to skin a cat I say. If you hold it by the tail it can still bite!

Good advice to follow:
Take measurements of the door openings and targa bar to windshield header. Cross measure then do it again to confirm. Recheck your measurements against the factory figures. Make a couple of adjustable braces for each side that attach from the upper seat belt anchors to the door hinges. I recommend cross braces also right to left. These can be made from rod or tube and turnbuckles for cheap. Racer Chris has some really nice ones with rod ends. Support the car from below equally on both sides of the undercarriage and front and rear. I do not believe jack stands can hold the proper tolerances at 4 points. It takes a minimum of 6 and preferably 8. These are all easy to do and are essential to a square and level chassis. Not everyone can afford a Cellete bench or hourly frame time at a shop for these type of do it yourself repairs. Impovisation can be done correctly and for a lot less money. Make sure your floor or platform is level.

Keep in mind that tolerances for the 914 were 7-9mm from the factory so anything you can do to make it better is worth it. 7mm by today’s standards is huge. 9mm is a Grand Canyon. Anything you can do to tighten the tolerances will provide a better end product. Exterior panels were fit with the adjust and weld method and are only a skin.

My 914 had measurements all over the place on the front end and the rust issues were all in the rear that needed correction. Car was never in any collisions.
90% of the measurements were factory assembly tolerances. Porsche's aint perfect.

I made my own dedicated bench for 911's and 914's. By some stroke of luck I ended up with a 1 mm variance in height (datum) and 2mm in length and width is zero with my own fixtures. This has been substantiated with endless anal cross measuring and factory manuals. I used a steel front suspension cross member as a front body holding fixture. I went through 4 before I found an acceptable one. The first 3 were so far off factory tolerances (4-6 mm out of square) I rejected them before I found a good one.

My bench is not for pulling. It was designed for assembly and replacement of structural parts. It will support 3,000 pounds. $350 worth of steel and another $175 in industrial castors was worth it considering its use. A stripped 914 shell is a feather and easy to roll around. When you cut and replace structural parts recheck your measurements. Control points change when you remove, replace and weld in new parts. They are easily controlled with patience.

If it does not come out perfect do not lose sleep. Remember tolerance and variance was not perfect from the factory. If you have a control point locating hole that is 14 mm a dowel or pin of 9-10mm was used during birth. That is why suspension systems are adjustable for variance and wear. You will also find center indexing points on the front and rear of the body. Easy tools to use are plumb lines, tape measures and levels if you do not have access to high end measuring equipment. You can locate and make symmetrical measurements throughout repairs. If you have one side that is undamaged or not rusted use that side as a starting point for measurements. Use panel gaps as a visual indicator during repairs and welding.

3 important factors- height, length and width. If you are me then there are 4 (Z axis) and that one will make you lose sleep!

Some pics of the beggining: A back east 914 comes to California.

[Jeff Hail]

Thanks Jeff,

Love those newfangled Carerrraa calipers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Hindsight. Should have probably gone silver (clear) plating. The Red and Yellow (gold) reminds of a zip code in 90210. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Oh well. But hey the price was right and will function as intended!

I am having ARP make the correct 7mm bolts in 12.9 grade for an undisclosed sum. Jimmy got an ear full from me over that. Always best to move forward and that is what I am doing.

[Jeff Hail]

Busy week. Didn't have any time to get out into the garage.

Finally got a moment late last night (100am) to finish the right front fender and give it a squirt of Duratec. One product I really like using. It covers, it hides, it sticks and anything underneath isnt ever coming through everrrrrrrrr!

Right fender done.

[Jeff Hail]

Dzus fasteners and mounting plates. I will most likely add a baffle at the rear of the fender to stop road crud from accumulating at the front of the door shell and hinge area. Nice light thin aluminum piece is in mind.

[Eric_Shea]

Looks slick Amigo. Sure wish you had made an extra set of fenders. You dzus good werk. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Todd Enlund]

Man, that is one lucky 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Jeff Hail]

Projects, projects........always a monkey wrench thrown in for good measure somewhere.

One of the projects formula was I had to retain the stock rear calipers and use spacers for the wide Carrera rear rotors. (to retain the E-brake) Spacers easy. Fasteners not so easy. I could have used Grade 10 1/4x28 bolts but I did not feel the safety factor of 20% was there. I researched and contacted Verbus. They provided the specs for the original 914 caliper bolts and confirmed my research that Grade 10 did not provide the safety/ failure factor I required. Verbus also does not make a longer caliper half/bolt in 12.9 grade. No one makes an off the shelf bolt this length.

Guess what no one including Multi-Specialty-Metric fasteners had the M7 bolts that would survive hell and back with a 20% safety factor. I learned long ago do not sacrifice or compromise anything when it comes to brakes and hardware. First rule in racing is you can only go as fast as you can stop.

I called an old aquaintance to the challenge. Gary at ARP (Automotive Racing Products). Through the "specialty department" I worked with Jay in manufacturing custom M7 fasteners that would even exceed the 8mm bolts used on the 911 Carrera calipers. 190Ksi caliper bolts with 12 point heads. Unobtainium!

Cost was startling but I did not have much choice. Still a bargain when you compare to a ready set of 914/6 calipers.

These fasteners come into "unobtainium" category when you look at the tensile strength specs. Far exceeding the 20% safety factor and the extra 14 mm in width will not flex or break. Money well spent.

[Wes V]

Jeff;

Couldn't ARP have done it with studs and nuts with hardened washers. It sure would have been easier to manufacture.

Wes V

[Jeff Hail]

Jeff;

Couldn't ARP have done it with studs and nuts with hardened washers. It sure would have been easier to manufacture.

Wes V

The length was an issue as strength diminishes with length. 8mm was not an option as the calipers do not have enough meat to drill out. The strength is based on the diameter ,grip area and length of the fasteners. Longer bolts (through), washers and nuts were not recommended with the heat span calipers are subject to. Growth and contraction with heat affect dimensions. This possibly could result in the caliper halfs shifting ever so slightly which could result in fluid seepage between the halfs. Studs were considered but would have still had "play" because the outer half would still need to be drilled to 7mm.

12.9 and higher grade fasteners require a 90% proof rating. In plain english when you torque the fasteners properly a given amount of stretch occurs. Grade 12.9 bolts are tightened right up to their 90% proof load. There is no other effective way to tighten a grade 12.9 bolt. Grade 12.9 bolts do not work effectively with spring washers or shakeproof washers. These don't bite into the hardened surface of the bolt.

[Eric_Shea]

So... ARP makes the fasteners. Red Green supplied the spacers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I just finished a set of Carera (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) rear calipers with the "honk'n" spacers (not as sexy as your's mind you...) and the Verbus M7 hardware was (I think) 65 and 70mm. No workie? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Damn (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I just mailed them out this AM and I could have checked.

Fasteners look slick Mr.

[Jeff Hail]

So... ARP makes the fasteners. Red Green supplied the spacers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I just finished a set of Carera (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) rear calipers with the "honk'n" spacers (not as sexy as your's mind you...) and the Verbus M7 hardware was (I think) 65 and 70mm. No workie? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Damn (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I just mailed them out this AM and I could have checked.

Fasteners look slick Mr.

Funny thing is M7 hardware is found all over the world on cars, bikes everwhere. Just cant find replacements in these lengths in the aftermarket.

Your measurements are correct 65,70mm -why did they not work?. Bet they were 8's huh?

I thought the Carrera bolts were 8mm? Actually I think the early one's were 7mm.
Fronts were 8 for sure....maybe....ok I admit not sure on the early's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) The lates pretty damn sure though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Never dealt with Red. Wasn't he the guy from "The Taking of Pelum One Two Three" back in 1974? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[Jeff Hail]

Haven't worked on the tub in a few weeks. Now I can get back to my regular programming.

Then today my friend Chris sends me this. Have a feeling I am going to get sidetracked helping out.

[Eric_Shea]

Your measurements are correct 65,70mm -why did they not work?. Bet they were 8's huh?

No, they worked fine for me. I was asking why they wouldn't have worked for you. It seems it would be less expensive to pick up a core pair of rear Carrera calipers and steal the fasteners.

I'm fairly certain all rear Carrera calipers are M7. The set I rebuilt had the 65 and 70mm M7... I really can't recall if they were Ribe or Verbus. The funny thing with M7 stuff on Porsche calipers is they are both Verbus and Ribe on the same caliper. Ribe made the longer fasteners on the 914 front caliper and Verbus made the shorter ones. Maybe this is why Verbus didn't have anything listed... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Ribe is listed at 12.9 and Verbus is 11.9

[Jeff Hail]

Your measurements are correct 65,70mm -why did they not work?. Bet they were 8's huh?

No, they worked fine for me. I was asking why they wouldn't have worked for you. It seems it would be less expensive to pick up a core pair of rear Carrera calipers and steal the fasteners.

I'm fairly certain all rear Carrera calipers are M7. The set I rebuilt had the 65 and 70mm M7... I really can't recall if they were Ribe or Verbus. The funny thing with M7 stuff on Porsche calipers is they are both Verbus and Ribe on the same caliper. Ribe made the longer fasteners on the 914 front caliper and Verbus made the shorter ones. Maybe this is why Verbus didn't have anything listed... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Ribe is listed at 12.9 and Verbus is 11.9

The original Verbus I pulled off was 12.9 on all. One concern was when they are proofed (torqued to 90%) they really arent supposed to be reused over and over. I doubt I would ever have a problem but don't want to find out.

[Jeff Hail]

Back to the regular program.........

Stripped the nose and primed today.

3rd pic shows driver side cowl with a bit of rust in the usual place.

[Jeff Hail]

Easy day

[KELTY360]

Haven't worked on the tub in a few weeks. Now I can get back to my regular programming.

Then today my friend Chris sends me this. Have a feeling I am going to get sidetracked helping out.

So when does the engine go back in the Mulholland RSR?

[plymouth37]

My god those fenders are fricken amazing! How much for a set, serously I need those, where should I send the check?
You are going into production with these whether you like it or not!

[Jeff Hail]

Haven't worked on the tub in a few weeks. Now I can get back to my regular programming.

Then today my friend Chris sends me this. Have a feeling I am going to get sidetracked helping out.

So when does the engine go back in the Mulholland RSR?

When my phone rings?

[Jeff Hail]

My god those fenders are fricken amazing! How much for a set, serously I need those, where should I send the check?
You are going into production with these whether you like it or not!

Lot of time to make them Dana. I did make 4, other 2 are in storage as spares- I hope I will never need them. Believe me I thought about making a run but they were very time intensive to do. The last two I pulled in a big hurry and distroyed both molds in the process. No kidding.

I will be doing a set of 12 inch rear flares in c/f soon. These will be tricky as I have no plug to pull a mold from. I have a few ideas though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)....running around this head of mine.

By the way nice project you are doing. You have impressive skills.

[Jeff Hail]

Fitting the front structure. Just tacked so I can square all the pieces during the mockup.

Fit of the pieces is perfect considering it began as an email and photo in California and fabbed in Conneticuit (by Chris Foley). Chris's work is first rate.

All ties into the lower control arm and suspension crossmember control points at the same time triangulating the nose and cowl. Very light weight.

Hey Chris think the headlight motors are going to fit?