Bringing out the dead Options

[Maltese Falcon]

Jeff, I'll need to source some of the hub-to-bearing spacers soon.
Are you still parking the chop top 911 in your front rec-room? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Marty

[Maltese Falcon]

Jeff...any updates on your build ?
Hope your shoulder+ hand are doing better...I joined the sheet metal lacerated finger brigade as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Marty

[76-914]

Rear lighting. Bases painted and assembled.

Jeff, I've seen this style tail light assm in 2 other builds. Are they available aftermarket? Looks good!

[Jeff Hail]

Jeff...any updates on your build ?
Hope your shoulder+ hand are doing better...I joined the sheet metal lacerated finger brigade as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Marty

Been working on the 14 just have not been taking photos.

[Jeff Hail]

Rear lighting. Bases painted and assembled.

Jeff, I've seen this style tail light assm in 2 other builds. Are they available aftermarket? Looks good!

Honestly they are a pain in the ass to make. No aftermarket because I own the molds and masters.

[Jeff Hail]

I'm working

[Jeff Hail]

I'm working

[Jeff Hail]

I'm working

[Jeff Hail]

Really like my NEW blasting cabinet. Inexpensive, doesn't take up a ton of space like commercial units BUT will do everything a commercial unit does. MADE IN TEXAS/ USA and a well thought out design. Will handle larger size parts. So far I have used both glass beads and StarBlast media.

It doesn't leak like the HF POS!


A Plug for the Barrel Blaster

http://www.barrelblaster.com/

[Jeff Hail]

Added more lighting to the shop.

Quote: Eddie Murphy - "I can see, I can see! "

[injunmort]

I have a first generation barrel blaster and been upgrading it for last 13 years. great blaster, great price and great manufacturer support. works better now than it did when I bought it. they are a great tool.

[Jeff Hail]

Funny that you ask what happened to Toppers parts.

A spoiler I picked up I had to enlarge the opening, center it (inlet opening was off on one side by 2 inches) and generally reshape it so its uniform.

Now the lower inlet and upper round holes are very close to the Carrera cooler size in sq inches.

The white gelcoat spoiler photo is before I made changes to it.

[Jeff Hail]

These are the rocker moldings I picked up from Toppers estate.

Stock molding in the middle used for comparison.

[Jeff Hail]

How rude of me

Seasons Greetings and other uses for a welding jacket.

[OllieG]

A really good product I have used for years is Jasco metal etch. It's a little different than metal ready. 1st its more agressive and only has to sit about 10 minutes (the instructions says 1 minute and rinse) versus some other products out there. It is very cheap in comparison to others and I think does a better job overall because it is full strength. (3/1, 2/1 with H20 or full strength as I use it right out of the bottle)

This is an excellent etching product. What it does not do ......It is not a conversion coating as it has no zinc or phosphate. If you are repairing and going directly to epoxy primer Jasco is a great product. If you are leaving metal exposed for a period you may get some flash and probably should use a zinc conversion coating even on good clean steel.

I am not fond of conversion coatings because rust is rust no matter what color it turns.

Enjoying reading this thread. I'm psyching myself up to tackle the same cowl repair you did. I reckon it's going to be the most challenging job of my resto for my newly learned and limited fabrication and welding skills!

I'm using epoxy primer like you and was wondering what the Jasco Metal Etch was for?? If you're wire-brushing the surface rust off, isn't the surface roughened enough by the brush just to take the epoxy straight, without needing to acid etch aswell?

Can you also use the Jasco to etch the first coat of epoxy so you can get additional coats to adhere?

Cheers.

[Jeff Hail]

3M Metal Prep or Jasco is just phosphoric acid. Jasco is about a third the price and you get a bottle three times as big.

The acid is a good surface conditioner which aids in bite while also leaving beyond some zinc.

Wire brushing isn't enough to abrade the surface for good coating adhesion. Wire brush is good for post weld clean up.

[mrbubblehead]

what about a sand blasted surface jeff? would that be a good enuff surface to epoxy primer over?

[Jeff Hail]

Depends on what grit abrasive is used. I finer media tends to create a good mechanical bond. Generally the answer would be yes but a proper cross-hatch abrading is proven to be best in conjunction with a chemical bond such as Epoxy. Epoxy is sticky stuff but like any coating surface prep is key to a good finish.

Imagine blasting with 60-80 grit media then going right to priming with EP or surfacer. You would still have a zillion micro craters to "fill" to get past the texture in the surface. Sand it and shoot another coat of EP, or skim coat it with glaze, or high build primer, sand some more, etc etc. At that point the mil thickness is building quickly.

[Jeff Hail]

Anyone that has ever removed bearing races from 911 hubs knows there is any easy way if you have later hubs because they have a relief cut in the bore to catch the edge of the race. A flat edged tool is pretty much all that is needed. Its still the Captain Cave Man way because you will still damage the race rendering it unusable pounding it out.

I have the last year hubs before Porsche added the relief cut.

Conundrum: (Which is a great bottle of wine I may add). I'm replacing new races and bearing so who cares if they get destroyed right? The early hubs tend to get beat up with the flat edged tool no matter. The early hubs tend to get the shoulder the races seat on beat up. One burr or high spot on the race shoulder edge you will end up with hub that wobbles radially - NO BUENO!

The other issue I have seen with about 30 bearing /race replacements is if you end up with a burr or high spot and when installing the new races they end up galling inside the hub...again causing radial issues. Once this happens out come the new races and you start over again. Hopefully you don't have to purchase a new set of bearings with match set of races again. Seen it too many times to mention.

The solution: Correct tools for the job.

On the left: Race installation driver. Off the shelf tool except I had to modify it for the correct angle for depth. Have you ever priced out the German Bearing/Race installation kit? Its running over $300 today. My driver was $8 and three minutes of lathe time.

In the middle: Two old races cut and welded so they are a little smaller in diameter than the bore. These work perfectly as lapping tools when 600 grit lapping compound is used to remove any galling and square up the bores. After thought they also double as installation adaptors to seat new races in the bores.

On the right: A tube bending wheel cut down on a lathe to use as a race removal tool to press out the outer race WITHOUT DAMAGING it. In case of seating issues due to galling I can press new races out in 10 seconds and use them again.

I have seen so many hubs trashed or called junk due to galling in the bores. No more. Easily corrected to zero run out.

[Jeff Hail]

Pressing in the new races GENTLY. I believe a press is the only and right way to do this procedure....