 Sheridan fender fitment questions v.1.0, =-) |
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| Dr. Roger |
 Mar 15 2006, 12:24 AM
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#1
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A bat out of hell.  Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California  |
these flared fenders have the door opener indents built into the fenders.
i'm trying to figure out the proper way to affix these fenders but i'm just not getting it. i was thinking of just screwing the whole fender over the existing one but something tells me that it isn't even close to how it should be done. LOL the other part of me thinks these fenders are designed to be attached by completely removing the old fenders and installing attachment points, then screwing the fenders into the attachment points. is this right? HELP!!! Attached image(s) 
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| Dr. Roger |
Mar 15 2006, 12:25 AM
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#2
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
#2 pic.
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| Dr. Roger |
Mar 15 2006, 12:50 AM
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#3
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
3rd pic.
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| Andyrew |
Mar 15 2006, 01:06 AM
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#4
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California 
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Cut that whole piece out.. about 1 cm out from the indent.
Andrew |
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| Mueller |
Mar 15 2006, 01:09 AM
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#5
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,150 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None
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those are "race" car parts.....they are designed to replace the sheetmetal, not go over it...kinda defeats the purpose (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)
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| McMark |
Mar 15 2006, 01:09 AM
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#6
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Looks like the latter. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif)
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| Dr. Roger |
Mar 15 2006, 01:15 AM
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#7
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(McMark) Looks like the latter. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) say it isn't so... Mark???? not the sawzall????? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) so if i chop the entire fender off, minus enough to attach the new fender, i'm guessing i have to beat the existing sheet metal in about 3/8" so that the new fender is at the same surface level as the old??? is that how it works? |
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| Andyrew |
Mar 15 2006, 01:49 AM
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#8
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California
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Yes, and no.
If you DO do that (1/4 of an inch would be good..) then You run the risk of screwing up your door gaps. I did NOT do it that way, and just attached mine to the fender, with lots of place to attach/glue the fender. Then sand down flat. Andrew |
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| SirAndy |
Mar 15 2006, 01:57 AM
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#9
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,954 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(Dr. Roger) is that how it works? do a search on "Dzus Fasteners" ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) you need to cut out the metal fender completely so the FG piece fits perfectly into the void. then weld on tabs to the metal edge to use with the dzus fasteners ... like said above, those are "race" parts ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) Andy |
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| SirAndy |
Mar 15 2006, 01:58 AM
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#10
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,954 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
metal tab welded to the fender/frame ...
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| SirAndy |
Mar 15 2006, 01:59 AM
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#11
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,954 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
FG parts locked in with dzus fasteners ....
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| SirAndy |
Mar 15 2006, 02:00 AM
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#12
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,954 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
one more closeup of a sheridan fender ...
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| SirAndy |
Mar 15 2006, 02:02 AM
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#13
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,954 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
and this is what it looks like underneath, you can clearly see the tabs for the dzus fasteners ...
(IMG:http://www.sirandy.com/pix/racing/08.24.2002/IMGP0546.JPG) |
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| wbergtho |
Mar 15 2006, 02:12 AM
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#14
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,314 Joined: 28-April 03 From: Roberts, WI Member No.: 623 |
Hey hey hey....Dr. Roger...(by the way...what type of doctor are you?) I have been there w/ my Sheridan body work. Before you go crazy w/ a sawzall...you need to understand that the existing Sheridan bodywork has to be trimmed back shy of the door indents and the rear tailight section. Also the front flairs should be trimmed back about three inches from the door seam. The body work should be glued on using a 3M adhesive and the rest blended and massaged...so everything is uniform and smooth. I get alot of positive comments on my Sheridan kit and I believe this is the way it should be done. When the glue is setting, a few screws straight through the body work (to hold everything tight is essential). Then the screws are backed out and thrown away. From this point a good body man can make it beautiful for you. The fender openings need to be cut away and discarded...but DO NOT remove the entire fender. You need about 40% of the existing fender to remain as a base to apply the Sheridan panels. I hope this helps.
Regards, Bill Attached image(s) 
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| Dr. Roger |
Mar 15 2006, 02:56 AM
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#15
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
bill,
might you have a closeup pic of the leading edge of the rear fenders as they are being attached? i'm just trying to understand how to attach the door opener indented area of the fender. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) oh, excellent taste in wheels BTW. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) |
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| Dr. Roger |
Mar 15 2006, 03:03 AM
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#16
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(wbergtho) Hey hey hey....Dr. Roger...(by the way...what type of doctor are you?) this last halloween i went out partying as "Dr. Love". Dr. Ruth Westheimer. then recently, after a particularly fulfilling evening, my lady friend called me "Dr. Roger". it's a new nick name but it's growing on me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
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| Brett W |
Mar 15 2006, 10:11 AM
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#17
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,858 Joined: 17-September 03 From: huntsville, al Member No.: 1,169 Region Association: None
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You could cut the majority of the fender away and leave about a 1 in overlap all the way around. Then carefully flange the down, so that there is a step down from teh steel fender surface. When that is flanged down, try to match the body work very closely to the step. Then glue your flare to the lower part of the step and fill the small gap between the body work and the steel fender. This would look super clean and it would be stronger.
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| wbergtho |
Mar 15 2006, 10:55 AM
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#18
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,314 Joined: 28-April 03 From: Roberts, WI Member No.: 623 |
Dr. Roger,
I'll post a few pics later today...after I figure out how to get my stupid scanner working again! By the way, Brett's idea to step down the lip that the fibreglass sits into is a great idea. I had asked my body guy to do it this way and he told me the expensive would skyrocket. I just cut the fibreglass back behind the door handle indent (2 inches behind) Glued the body panel to what's left of the fender, applied temporary screws to hold it tight, and then off to the body shop for serious grinding, massaging, filling, etc. The step down lip is the best way...but my stuff hasn't cracked or fallen off yet. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/aktion035.gif) |
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| maf914 |
Mar 15 2006, 12:16 PM
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#19
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Not a Guru! Group: Members Posts: 3,049 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Central Florida Member No.: 632 Region Association: None
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JP did his installation as described. If I recall he left about a 1" flange of original metal and attached the fiberglass fenders using removable fasteners. If you search you may find the photos he posted. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif)
There is definately a no-turning-back factor when you start chopping away the sheet metal! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) |
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| Dr. Roger |
Mar 15 2006, 12:23 PM
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#20
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
bill,
so it looks like you used some sort fo panel flanger. is this correct? i'm looking at a hand "deep flanger" from eastwood. this seems to give the deeper flange to give more screwing/gluing area of adhesion. this is making the most sense for my application which is a street car/part time A/X er/road racer. geez, i wish there was an easier way to do this (meaning not by hand). (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) the dzus fastener solution solution keeps making me think of me coming out from some restauraunt and finding my rear quarter panels missing. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) |
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