Heater Controls and Fresh Air box assembly, Front cowl |
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Heater Controls and Fresh Air box assembly, Front cowl |
914werke |
Aug 11 2008, 11:04 PM
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#1
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,946 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Well its been quite a long time since I took this thing apart and while I can figure out how it goes back Im hopefull someone will have BTDT and have some advice on the correct procedure.
Im talking about putting all the Heating venilation, defrost controls and such back on the car! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Anyone? for exanple when do you attach the controlling cables to the flappers / fan box, before or after thier installation ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
Bleyseng |
Aug 12 2008, 01:09 AM
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#2
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,036 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Thanks for dropping off the beer bottles Rich!
I can't answer your question.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) |
SGB |
Aug 12 2008, 07:15 AM
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#3
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just visiting Group: Members Posts: 4,086 Joined: 8-March 03 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 404 Region Association: South East States |
this is WAY back, but I remember I had it all attached to the control panel but disconnected from the flappers up front. I THINK.
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rick 918-S |
Aug 12 2008, 08:23 AM
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#4
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,785 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
It's been way too long, but I remember I had a hell of a time getting the center section under the cowl. maybe because I had everthing connected? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I added a piece of window screen under the cowl to keep out leaves and junk.
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r_towle |
Aug 12 2008, 09:04 AM
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#5
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,645 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Cables get connected prior to install...otherwise you are not going to be happy.
Its a hard item to get into place...put the bottom in first, then lean the top into place. Rich |
PanelBilly |
Aug 12 2008, 10:35 AM
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#6
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,860 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
When I took my car apart, I did a photo essay of the procedure. That way when I put it togeather again, I could just refer to the pictures. I took so many snap shoots. Too bad I put them on the family computer. Then I got divorced! I've asked many times, but the photos seem to have been deleted.
I plan that the re-assembly will be slow and I'll need to back track many times. I'm looking to this community to help me find my way too. |
Steve Snyder |
Aug 12 2008, 11:17 AM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 241 Joined: 10-June 08 From: Graham, NC Member No.: 9,158 Region Association: South East States |
I just went through this a few months ago. It was not a pleasant experience. Here is the order of operation that worked best...
1. Attach cable to bottom of blower. Plug in wiring harness to rear of blower. 2. If you have an early model, consider adding some mesh to the intake as mentioned above in this thread. If you have a later model, make sure the plastic grille is in place. Install blower & housing. It is a tight fit, so be careful. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i310.photobucket.com-179-1274228552.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i310.photobucket.com-179-1274228552.2.jpg) 3. The left valve has four cables connected to it, two in front and two in back. The top cable on the front goes through the funny-looking cable guide grommet to the control unit in the dashboard. The bottom cable in the front goes to the rear of the right valve. The top (I think - check this, as I may be remembering incorrectly and can't tell from the pics) cable on the back goes through the funny-looking cable guide grommet to the control unit in the dashboard. The bottom cable in the back goes to the front of the right valve. Attach the two rear cables to the left valve/defrost duct (remove the spring clip from the forward-facing side prior to install, but leave the other in place -- this allows a bit of flexibility, and you do not want to break the tabs) and install. I found that Installation works best by fitting the defrost end first, then sliding the bottom of the valve into place in its hole with the assistance of some grease. I was not able to fit the valve first as suggested above (your results may vary, see which works best for you). In either case, this is a very tight fit. If you are not extremely patient, you will snap off the tabs that hold the defrost duct to the valve (via spring clips). I broke a set during installation, and it sucked (even with a parts car or four, it takes a bit of time and effort to get to and carefully remove a replacement... think about it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ). Note that the securing hardware is in the form of metal tabs for the duct with bolts that also attach the plastic air deflectors in the interior. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i310.photobucket.com-179-1274228553.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i310.photobucket.com-179-1274228554.4.jpg) 4. Attach the remaining cable to the right valve/defrost duct assembly and install in the same manner as the left side. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i310.photobucket.com-179-1274228554.5.jpg) 5. Run and attach the remaining cable ends as described in step 3. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i310.photobucket.com-179-1274228555.6.jpg) 6. Install the little plastic elbow ducts in the corners shown in the pics above. NOTE: These ducts go to the vents in the lower dash on post-1971 cars. If you have a 1970-71 model, I'd expect you won't have these (and some other things might look a bit different). 7. Install the hoses. (Note that the long, large hoses that run from the valves to the longitudinal heater pipes (behind the speaker grilles) are not yet installed in the picture above... I forgot to take a "completed" picture... D'oh!) 8. Attach the three cable ends to the appropriate slides on your interior vent controller. 9. Hope it works. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Good luck! |
watsonrx13 |
Aug 12 2008, 11:55 AM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,735 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Steve, excellent write up.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
Admin, this post needs to go directly to the classics..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Also, could someone retitle this? -- Rob |
McMark |
Aug 12 2008, 12:36 PM
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#9
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) It's on my list to put in the Classics once it's fallen off the first page...
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gopack |
Aug 12 2008, 12:41 PM
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#10
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CHEESEHEAD in CA, MARK Group: Members Posts: 744 Joined: 7-August 04 From: Folsom, CA Member No.: 2,472 Region Association: Northern California |
i cant see the attached images. Is it just me?
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914werke |
Aug 13 2008, 11:09 AM
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#11
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,946 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Excellent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
Ill try to snap a few to fill in the procedure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) |
jim_hoyland |
Aug 13 2008, 02:42 PM
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#12
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,516 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
The Haynes Manual has a decent diagram of where the cables go.
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geniusanthony |
Nov 22 2010, 01:12 AM
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#13
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Its a brand new "Chrome-sicle" Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Alexandria,VA Member No.: 5,266 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Is this in classics yet?
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geniusanthony |
Nov 22 2010, 01:13 AM
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#14
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Its a brand new "Chrome-sicle" Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Alexandria,VA Member No.: 5,266 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Is this in classics yet? If no, lets complete the procedure.
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jt914-6 |
Nov 22 2010, 06:34 AM
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#15
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Driving & working on teeners 41 years Group: Members Posts: 1,786 Joined: 3-May 08 From: Bryant, Arkansas Member No.: 9,003 Region Association: South East States |
Loosen up the two cowl support brackets and remove the bolts to let the cowl flex a little when installing the fresh air blower assm. It makes it easier to install...
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championgt1 |
Nov 22 2010, 10:26 AM
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#16
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Don't embarrass me Filmore! Group: Members Posts: 2,680 Joined: 3-January 07 From: Tacoma, Washington Member No.: 7,420 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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mcbrems |
Mar 18 2011, 01:03 PM
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#17
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Ferdinand's first was Electric! Group: Members Posts: 46 Joined: 26-April 10 From: North San Diego County, CA Member No.: 11,660 Region Association: Southern California |
Much gratitude. I used this tutorial extensively during a complete reinstall of my blower and flappers. I do have some additions and a clarification, though.
The shortest control cable connects the middle dash panel slider to the driver flapper rear top link. The medium length dash control cable connects the top dash panel slider to the fresh air blower flaps. My clarification is regarding the longest control cable, which connects the red bottom dash lever to the driver side flapper front linkage, which channels hot air either to the floor, or to the defroster/dash vent. With the red slider all the way to the right for maximum defrost, the driver flapper valve should be channeling all hot air from the up-tube to the defroster nozzle. The only configuration that delivers that result is when the control cable is connected to the driver flapper box front bottom link. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) This is the one instance that differs from the above tutorial. Connecting the cross-link cable from the driver front top link to the passenger flapper box rear linkage will then make sure the same action is copied on the passenger side. Here's a link to my blower/flapper reinstall: http://914electric.wordpress.com/2011/03/18/take-the-heat/ Cheers, MarkB |
Alphaogre |
Mar 27 2014, 03:20 PM
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#18
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Member Group: Members Posts: 460 Joined: 28-May 12 From: San Diego Member No.: 14,487 Region Association: Southern California |
Awesome thanks! Not looking forward to installing these all back in but once this is done, that that pretty much finishes it up!
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siverson |
Oct 26 2014, 10:44 PM
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#19
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Advanced Member Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,451 Joined: 5-May 03 From: San Diego, CA Member No.: 654 Region Association: Southern California |
FU air box blower thing. You are a huge pain in the ass!!!
(90 minutes... 1 of 2 bolts installed) -Steve |
BeatNavy |
Oct 27 2014, 05:21 AM
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#20
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Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,938 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
FU air box blower thing. You are a huge pain in the ass!!! (90 minutes... 1 of 2 bolts installed) -Steve (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Yeah, I've never felt like this about anything I've attempted on my 'teener. Not laughing at you, more in sympathy, but this gave me a good laugh this morning. Good luck, hope you get it done. |
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