Heater Controls and Fresh Air box assembly, Front cowl |
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Heater Controls and Fresh Air box assembly, Front cowl |
arkitect |
Apr 17 2016, 10:54 PM
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#41
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 617 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Stockton, CA Member No.: 11,426 Region Association: None |
I found a solution to my cable problem. Replaced the brittle old wire with some new galvanized 16ga wire. Was able to bend the s shape bend at the control. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Dave |
draganc |
Dec 30 2016, 05:55 PM
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#42
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 725 Joined: 2-November 09 From: central new jersey Member No.: 11,000 Region Association: North East States |
Achtung achtung, here comes ze rant: you mofo-ker, who ever designed this f-ing blower/air box, yes I'm talk about you Klaus-Dieter or Hans or Helmut, I hope you never ever get one "...of those tasty Sauerkraut sandwiches..." again!!!!
What da funk is wrong with people design sheit likes this? This must be the worse German engineering EVER! |
morsmanlaw |
Mar 17 2017, 08:05 AM
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#43
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 39 Joined: 27-August 13 From: Jenks, OK Member No.: 16,308 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Loosen up the two cowl support brackets and remove the bolts to let the cowl flex a little when installing the fresh air blower assm. It makes it easier to install... Not sure if you will get this reply, but your post from over 6 years ago was of great help in my being able to get the box back in. |
Olympic 914 |
Mar 17 2017, 06:31 PM
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#44
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Group: Members Posts: 1,708 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
I just did this job today. Been dreading it for a while now.
it would have helped if I had seen this thread before I started, but I did some of the same tricks that worked for others. first the plastic grill was a little too big and was holding the seal out too far. so I sanded it on all four sides until the rubber seal fit nicely. I thought about loosening the wiper assembly but got it in without having to do that. Had it in and out a couple three times because the seal kept getting pushed out of place. ended up slathering liquid hand soap on the seal to help it slide in past the wiper bar and cowl. Ended up ovaling the mounting holes a little with a file (sorry Darren, But I gave up fighting it) and using a block of wood and a pry bar to get the second bolt started. All the while holding my breath hoping that I wouldn't bust the housing..... Then came trying to connect the cable underneath the blower ... another adventure. But it was successful. and then I walked away from it.... Glad that's done. |
DRPHIL914 |
Aug 28 2017, 07:47 AM
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#45
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,810 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
Achtung achtung, here comes ze rant: you mofo-ker, who ever designed this f-ing blower/air box, yes I'm talk about you Klaus-Dieter or Hans or Helmut, I hope you never ever get one "...of those tasty Sauerkraut sandwiches..." again!!!! What da funk is wrong with people design sheit likes this? This must be the worse German engineering EVER! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) I have been working on my connections on the slider mechanism and the indicator lights, but still only one speed- so I will pull the fan and try a different on I have- this thread should help get it all back together I hope! |
GregAmy |
Dec 5 2017, 09:09 AM
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#46
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,399 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States |
I'm laughing here, always wondered how much bier some of these engineers were having while designing this stuff...
But why I'm here...I remember as I was cruising around I remember seeing someone selling a kit of plates that over the holes in the under-dash when you remove the fresh air blower. I'm going to do this on the race car, since I'm running open-top anyway...I can't for the LIFE of me find those again. Coulda been ebay, maybe amazon, maybe one of our standard vendors? Just can't find it again. Halp? |
Blue6 |
Dec 5 2017, 10:05 AM
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#47
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,049 Joined: 3-October 13 From: SoCal Member No.: 16,470 Region Association: Southern California |
I bought the Maddog set. Fit great. He's a vendor here. Website is Maddogs motor sports. Under 914 accessories.
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GregAmy |
Dec 5 2017, 10:28 AM
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#48
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,399 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States |
That's the one! Can't even imagine where I saw that...thanks!
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JFG |
Feb 21 2018, 02:59 PM
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#49
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 686 Joined: 7-April 16 From: Wales Member No.: 19,869 Region Association: None |
I've just completed this pig of a job.
I used the link below to identify which cable went where as I couldn't get a clear picture from the link on page 1 http://hartpenn.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/ Those little 7mm clamping bolts are like jelly! |
barefoot |
Oct 22 2018, 06:46 PM
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#50
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,327 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States |
Much gratitude. I used this tutorial extensively during a complete reinstall of my blower and flappers. I do have some additions and a clarification, though. The shortest control cable connects the middle dash panel slider to the driver flapper rear top link. The medium length dash control cable connects the top dash panel slider to the fresh air blower flaps. My clarification is regarding the longest control cable, which connects the red bottom dash lever to the driver side flapper front linkage, which channels hot air either to the floor, or to the defroster/dash vent. With the red slider all the way to the right for maximum defrost, the driver flapper valve should be channeling all hot air from the up-tube to the defroster nozzle. The only configuration that delivers that result is when the control cable is connected to the driver flapper box front bottom link. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) This is the one instance that differs from the above tutorial. Connecting the cross-link cable from the driver front top link to the passenger flapper box rear linkage will then make sure the same action is copied on the passenger side. I just completed a full mock-up on the bench and confirm the comments just above: The cable commenting from the drivers side TOP front connection goes to the passenger side rear connection, & the bottom control cable from the red dash slider goes to the Bottom front drivers side flapper box. Barefoot Here's a link to my blower/flapper reinstall: http://914electric.wordpress.com/2011/03/18/take-the-heat/ Cheers, MarkB |
barefoot |
Oct 22 2018, 06:58 PM
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#51
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,327 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States |
I added some notes to a couple of picts for additional info. Dave One correction: The TOP of front left (drivers side) cable goes to the rear of the right (passengers side) box. You're correct that bottom control (RED) from the dash slider goes to the bottom front of the left (drivers side) Just mocked up the whole system on the bench to figure how to do the routing Barefoot |
barefoot |
Oct 22 2018, 07:08 PM
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#52
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,327 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States |
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