Buying Welding Equipment Options

[zymurgist]

The Millermatic 140AS is a 110v unit with infinite wire speed and voltage. It also has "Autoset", you dial in the metal gauge and the unit selects the wire speed and voltage. I paid ~$600 from Indiana Oxygen, shipped.

This is good information! If I decide not to spend my money on a new car, I might want to call these guys!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Richard Casto]

Since we are talking about inexpensive welders, infinite control (other than wire speed) is out of the question. So for example the units you might buy at a Lowes or Home Depot (Lincoln or Miller) would probably have 5 voltage settings (labeled A, B, C, D, E). Both the 110 and 220 units will probably have 5 settings. So yes, the range on the 110 is going to be smaller. So you are technically right about the voltage selection. But I will say that from a practical point of view it doesn’t make a big enough of a difference to matter.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Depends on your definition of "inexpensive"...

I did a lot of research on 110 units before I decided to spend the money and cry once. I bought a Miller 140AS.

The Millermatic 140AS is a 110v unit with infinite wire speed and voltage. It also has "Autoset", you dial in the metal gauge and the unit selects the wire speed and voltage. I paid ~$600 from Indiana Oxygen, shipped. The local Miller dealer wouldn't even come close to that... instead, they tried to talk me down to a Hobart for $525, and stuck to their $799 price on the Miller. I'd have rather bought local, but $200 difference and them not budging was a deal breaker.

Another difference is that the Miller has a metal feed roller assembly, the Hobart only has a metal roller, the rest of the assembly is plastic.

The Lincoln 140C also has infinite voltage, the 140T does not. The difference between the two is $50-$100 depending on the vendor. The Lincoln 140C is about $20 less than the Miller, but does not have Autoset.

The units at the local community college that I learned to weld on were the nice digital infinite control models. Very nice to use and good to learn on.

I am not sure I would pay extra for some type of "autoset" feature. I suspect a paper chart that maps wire size/type, metal guage and then gives you voltage and wirespeed would work just as well and save you real $$. But if I had the money and/or planned to do a lot more welding that just my car, I probably would have spent more and went with a nicer unit than what I have today. Next purchase will probably be an inexpensive TIG setup.

[ghuff]

Since we are talking about inexpensive welders, infinite control (other than wire speed) is out of the question. So for example the units you might buy at a Lowes or Home Depot (Lincoln or Miller) would probably have 5 voltage settings (labeled A, B, C, D, E). Both the 110 and 220 units will probably have 5 settings. So yes, the range on the 110 is going to be smaller. So you are technically right about the voltage selection. But I will say that from a practical point of view it doesn’t make a big enough of a difference to matter.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Depends on your definition of "inexpensive"...

I did a lot of research on 110 units before I decided to spend the money and cry once. I bought a Miller 140AS.

The Millermatic 140AS is a 110v unit with infinite wire speed and voltage. It also has "Autoset", you dial in the metal gauge and the unit selects the wire speed and voltage. I paid ~$600 from Indiana Oxygen, shipped. The local Miller dealer wouldn't even come close to that... instead, they tried to talk me down to a Hobart for $525, and stuck to their $799 price on the Miller. I'd have rather bought local, but $200 difference and them not budging was a deal breaker.

Another difference is that the Miller has a metal feed roller assembly, the Hobart only has a metal roller, the rest of the assembly is plastic.

The Lincoln 140C also has infinite voltage, the 140T does not. The difference between the two is $50-$100 depending on the vendor. The Lincoln 140C is about $20 less than the Miller, but does not have Autoset.

The units at the local community college that I learned to weld on were the nice digital infinite control models. Very nice to use and good to learn on.

I am not sure I would pay extra for some type of "autoset" feature. I suspect a paper chart that maps wire size/type, metal guage and then gives you voltage and wirespeed would work just as well and save you real $$. But if I had the money and/or planned to do a lot more welding that just my car, I probably would have spent more and went with a nicer unit than what I have today. Next purchase will probably be an inexpensive TIG setup.

I do not think inexpensive and tig go together well hehehe.

[Porcharu]

One thing that has not been mentioned here is the ability to reliably run small wire (0.030) Using the small wire really helps on sheetmetal - a good welder (person not the machine) can make perfect welds on thin stuff with big wire but a hobbyist (like me) cannot and the small wire really helps with burn thru. My Miller 180 is OK but it jambs about 10% of the time even with a nice Tweko gun and hose setup.
When I was a teenager the shop foreman that I worked with would TIG weld razor blades (sharp ends) together and empty beer cans during the Friday beer busts and challenge the other guys to match him - they never came close. Dude could weld anything. I wish I had 1/10 of his welding skill.

[Gint]

When I bought my first cheap compressor I learned a lesson and replaced it a few years later with an $800 unit. When I went to buy a welder I remembered that lesson. I love my 220v Miller 175 with variable voltage and wire speed. I ended up spending over $700 ($800?) after the gas bottle bottle and accessories were done. I've never looked back...

[scotty b]

One thing that has not been mentioned here is the ability to reliably run small wire (0.030) Using the small wire really helps on sheetmetal - a good welder (person not the machine) can make perfect welds on thin stuff with big wire but a hobbyist (like me) cannot and the small wire really helps with burn thru. My Miller 180 is OK but it jambs about 10% of the time even with a nice Tweko gun and hose setup.
When I was a teenager the shop foreman that I worked with would TIG weld razor blades (sharp ends) together and empty beer cans during the Friday beer busts and challenge the other guys to match him - they never came close. Dude could weld anything. I wish I had 1/10 of his welding skill.

Your welder is NOT the issue. Any decent machine can and will run any size wire well if properly setup. If you have a jamming issue there is a problem somewhere EXTERNAL of the machine. A kink in the liner, wrong size roller, tension not set properly. I run .023 in the 140 at the shop, and everything from .023 to .040 on my 250 at home. No problems with either machine running any size wire. Start at the wire and work your way to the tip of the gun checking and re-checking every piece until you find the real issue. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[Todd Enlund]

When I bought my first cheap compressor I learned a lesson and replaced it a few years later with an $800 unit. When I went to buy a welder I remembered that lesson. I love my 220v Miller 175 with variable voltage and wire speed. I ended up spending over $700 ($800?) after the gas bottle bottle and accessories were done. I've never looked back...

That's a hella deal. Gas bottles can be expensive. I paid ~$600 for my Miller 140AS, and swapped an old 234 cuft Nitrogen bottle for 250 cuft Ar/CO2. Not exactly portable, but I won't be running out soon (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[Mark Henry]

One thing that has not been mentioned here is the ability to reliably run small wire (0.030) Using the small wire really helps on sheetmetal - a good welder (person not the machine) can make perfect welds on thin stuff with big wire but a hobbyist (like me) cannot and the small wire really helps with burn thru. My Miller 180 is OK but it jambs about 10% of the time even with a nice Tweko gun and hose setup.
When I was a teenager the shop foreman that I worked with would TIG weld razor blades (sharp ends) together and empty beer cans during the Friday beer busts and challenge the other guys to match him - they never came close. Dude could weld anything. I wish I had 1/10 of his welding skill.

Your welder is NOT the issue. Any decent machine can and will run any size wire well if properly setup. If you have a jamming issue there is a problem somewhere EXTERNAL of the machine. A kink in the liner, wrong size roller, tension not set properly. I run .023 in the 140 at the shop, and everything from .023 to .040 on my 250 at home. No problems with either machine running any size wire. Start at the wire and work your way to the tip of the gun checking and re-checking every piece until you find the real issue. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

I agree plus keep your welder clean, cover it after use. If it's sitting under the grinder bench move it! Where the wire comes off the reel I loop a small piece of cloth on the wire so the wire is clean. Use name brand wire. Don't run over the whip........

I've welded sheet metal with 600v watercooled welders....then change the settings and have a go at 1" plate
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[nsr-jamie]

Some lessons in welding might come in handy too if you have never done it before, also talk with people who have experience and just give it a try. The more you do the better you get.

[Richard Casto]

Next purchase will probably be an inexpensive TIG setup.

I do not think inexpensive and tig go together well hehehe.

Unfortunatly you are right, but there are some on the cheap end of the scale. I played a bit in welding class with a nicer TIG unit, but at the time the pedal was broke (for the pedal start) and we had to use scratch start mode. That not the best for sure, but it was fun to play with and the scratch start did work. I know people like to slag HF equipment (and I wouldn't pick a HF welder as my primary welder), but I probably will pick up their relatively inexpensive scratch start TIG unit. I think it retails for around $300 (+/-), but they sometimes have it on sale for about $200 (+/-). I am sure it bottom of the barrel and is obviously missing pedal start, but I have heard that people have had good results with it. If I end up doing much TIG, I will probably sell that and buy something nice. But right now I can't justify buying a nice TIG setup.

[gothspeed]

Here is a reasonably priced MIG

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...-Product%20Page

[Porcharu]

One thing that has not been mentioned here is the ability to reliably run small wire (0.030) Using the small wire really helps on sheetmetal - a good welder (person not the machine) can make perfect welds on thin stuff with big wire but a hobbyist (like me) cannot and the small wire really helps with burn thru. My Miller 180 is OK but it jambs about 10% of the time even with a nice Tweko gun and hose setup.
When I was a teenager the shop foreman that I worked with would TIG weld razor blades (sharp ends) together and empty beer cans during the Friday beer busts and challenge the other guys to match him - they never came close. Dude could weld anything. I wish I had 1/10 of his welding skill.

Your welder is NOT the issue. Any decent machine can and will run any size wire well if properly setup. If you have a jamming issue there is a problem somewhere EXTERNAL of the machine. A kink in the liner, wrong size roller, tension not set properly. I run .023 in the 140 at the shop, and everything from .023 to .040 on my 250 at home. No problems with either machine running any size wire. Start at the wire and work your way to the tip of the gun checking and re-checking every piece until you find the real issue. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

In my case it is the fact that the rollers are a little 'tired' and need to be replaced. It has never really liked the .023 wire even when it was new. Wire buckles up just before the liner begins.

[saigon71]

Here is a reasonably priced MIG

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...-Product%20Page

Goth:

Have you used this type of mig? Any drawbacks to it? Thanks.

Bob

[Porcharu]

What about going old school and getting a gas welder. For half the cost of a decent MIG you can get a top of the line gas outfit. I love mine (just used it tonight) it is quiet and uses no electricity and works great on thin sheetmetal. You must get a proper setup to work on cars - the ones at home depot or lowes will not work on thin metal - they are made for welding 1/4" and just flat out suck for sheetmetal. Get yourself an aircraft welding set or just get a smith setup like I have, an AW1a (the tiny one) and the some kevlar hoses and a few tips. I love this setup for thin to medium steel, it's fantastic for making tanks. It also teaches you how to TIG weld - Just a thought.
Steve