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> CW types, purists and others a bit, squeemish. Do not look!!!
proto31
post Jun 6 2013, 06:52 PM
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Nice Job Elliot! I'm extremely impressed. When's this contraption making it's first trip down to the OC?


Dan
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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 6 2013, 08:00 PM
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So, I'm congratulating myself on finally getting the five lug conversion and flared fiberglass fenders done and then... OK, what now genius? My front spoiler and air dam don't quite match up. As the Gov. of Texas says, "oops". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) The spoiler is fiberglass and I'm wondering if it can be heated with a heat gun and "bent" to match the fender flare? I don't want to but I could also cut it off just before the dzus fastener.


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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 6 2013, 08:03 PM
Post #103


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QUOTE(proto31 @ Jun 6 2013, 05:52 PM) *

Nice Job Elliot! I'm extremely impressed. When's this contraption making it's first trip down to the OC?


Dan

Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (If there is one). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 6 2013, 08:05 PM
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QUOTE(Rand @ May 22 2013, 05:37 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Sweet! Nice work.

Interesting new spoiler on your rear decklid. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/prop.gif)

Spare tire. "Continental Kit". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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76-914
post Jun 6 2013, 08:26 PM
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Nice job Elyut. Now for my negative side. Have you thought about going in with a few more DZus fasteners in the rear. That is probably a high pressure area. More especially at decent hi-way speeds. Doesn't look like any air will get under it in the front part and it looks stout on the top but I see a load on that sole one in the back. You really shouldn't listen to me unless I'm buying the beer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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MoveQik
post Jun 6 2013, 09:21 PM
Post #106


What size wheels can I fit?
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QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jun 6 2013, 07:03 PM) *

Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (If there is one). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Jun 6 2013, 09:33 PM
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QUOTE(MoveQik @ Jun 6 2013, 10:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jun 6 2013, 07:03 PM) *

Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (If there is one). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


Oh there will be one.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

El, no you can't heat fibreglas. Use some tag board, cut a pattern, use masking tape to attach it to your spoiler, rub on a little automotive wax over the masking tape. mix up some fibreglas and lay it up. After it dries you can peal it off the tape, pull the pattern off and grind and glas the new piece you made to match up to your flare. Use a little body filler over the top to blend it in and bomb can the spoiler black again.

Purchase the flared rockers from AA. You may have to reshape them but it's way better for a novice to try to reshape fibreglas than try to hammer out the factory rockers.
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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 6 2013, 10:09 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Jun 6 2013, 07:26 PM) *

Nice job Elyut. Now for my negative side. Have you thought about going in with a few more DZus fasteners in the rear. That is probably a high pressure area. More especially at decent hi-way speeds. Doesn't look like any air will get under it in the front part and it looks stout on the top but I see a load on that sole one in the back. You really shouldn't listen to me unless I'm buying the beer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The key words here being "decent highway speeds". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I have a few fasteners left and they would be easy to install. Maybe I'll take a video with the ole Go Pro and see what it looks like and install if needed. Thanks for the tip. You owe me a beer for having to take your advice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 6 2013, 10:12 PM
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Jun 6 2013, 08:33 PM) *

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Jun 6 2013, 10:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jun 6 2013, 07:03 PM) *

Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (If there is one). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


Oh there will be one.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

El, no you can't heat fibreglas. Use some tag board, cut a pattern, use masking tape to attach it to your spoiler, rub on a little automotive wax over the masking tape. mix up some fibreglas and lay it up. After it dries you can peal it off the tape, pull the pattern off and grind and glas the new piece you made to match up to your flare. Use a little body filler over the top to blend it in and bomb can the spoiler black again.

Purchase the flared rockers from AA. You may have to reshape them but it's way better for a novice to try to reshape fibreglas than try to hammer out the factory rockers.

Thanks for the tip Rick. I tried painting, maybe I should try my hand at fiberglass as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I bought fiberglass rockers from QRS and they seem to fit pretty good. I'll post more pics as I go along.
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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 6 2013, 10:14 PM
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QUOTE(MoveQik @ Jun 6 2013, 08:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jun 6 2013, 07:03 PM) *

Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (If there is one). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Durango? Fuck that. I'm not driving to Montana!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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McMark
post Jun 6 2013, 11:23 PM
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Do the fiberglass. Go get some clay and mold the flared section until it looks right, then lay up the fiberglass right on top. Cut the old section off after it hardens and remove the clay, then bodywork the new section and paint.

You're doing great!
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ruby914
post Jun 7 2013, 01:46 AM
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Wow, Elliot, the car looks great.
Sexy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Jun 7 2013, 07:09 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jun 6 2013, 11:14 PM) *

QUOTE(MoveQik @ Jun 6 2013, 08:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jun 6 2013, 07:03 PM) *

Are you kidding? I'll be lucky to have it ready for the Red Rocks Classic in September. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (If there is one). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


Where you been? Sounds like they picked Durango as the location! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Durango? Fuck that. I'm not driving to Montana!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


Durango Co. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) and you better be there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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76-914
post Jun 7 2013, 08:11 AM
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Mark is right about clay but you can never get all of it out when your finished. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) Another way is to get some green Styrofoam block like the florist use. Michael's has it. Attach the foam to the area you will be working then sand to the desired shape w/ 30 grit. Much easier to remove after your glass work is done. Don't be afraid of FG. All mistakes can be sanded down, re-covered and done over. PS, the reason I suggest the green stuff is it will work with styrene or epoxy type resins and I don't know which you are using. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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McMark
post Jun 7 2013, 11:24 AM
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Spray some PVA over your clay first. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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ruby914
post Jun 7 2013, 12:24 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jun 7 2013, 10:24 AM) *

Spray some PVA over your clay first. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) All ways work.
Clay, Crystal clear paint then PVA.
Clay, Tape, wax.
Remove new part, clean up, remove unwanted part and scab back on the new. This is a good way for a seamless clean job.
If you want to have a core or don't mind grinding out the old part
Urethane foam (green) for polyester or epoxy resin. You can put Bondo over it.
EPS foam for Epoxy. (Do not Bondo over it).
Cardboard and tape...
1000 ways to skin a cat.
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bulitt
post Jun 7 2013, 12:47 PM
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"I got some 1 1/2 inch spacers at the Parts Heaven swap meet and I think they will work out OK. I just wish I could use these spacers without using lug nuts on the spacers. Now I've got to order 10 more lug nuts. These wheels and spacers are "lug centric", soooo, I've ordered 10 more lug nuts."

You are saying both spacers are too deep for 100 studs? Wow
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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 7 2013, 03:36 PM
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QUOTE(bulitt @ Jun 7 2013, 11:47 AM) *

"I got some 1 1/2 inch spacers at the Parts Heaven swap meet and I think they will work out OK. I just wish I could use these spacers without using lug nuts on the spacers. Now I've got to order 10 more lug nuts. These wheels and spacers are "lug centric", soooo, I've ordered 10 more lug nuts."

You are saying both spacers are too deep for 100 studs? Wow

If I could, I would press out the lug bolts on the spacers and just use the long lugs on my rotors. If the spacer and wheel were "hub centric" maybe I could do that? Because both are "lug centric" I'm not sure I can. I am also told that with a spacer that wide, I should use the lugs on the spacers.
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bulitt
post Jun 7 2013, 06:56 PM
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Thats what I did, pressed out the studs on the spacer then just slid it over the 100mm studs. Mine are hubcentric.

Then there's this guy-

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-7816-1319642170.jpg)
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Elliot Cannon
post Jun 8 2013, 06:20 PM
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Still trying to decide what to do with this spacer. It kind of looks like a truck wheel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) When I removed the wheel today, I noticed that the spacer to the wheel is "hub centric", which means to me, the spacer almost becomes part of the wheel. What I'm getting at is even though the spacer is 1 1/2" wide, I'm thinking of pressing out the studs on the spacer and just using the studs on the rotor.


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