I need a radiator for my SBC conversion, Ideas? Part numbers? |
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I need a radiator for my SBC conversion, Ideas? Part numbers? |
pete |
Jun 21 2011, 10:52 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 23-August 10 From: New Jersey Member No.: 12,092 Region Association: North East States |
I need to purchase a radiator for my SBC conversion and am in need of some suggestions/part numbers. JEGS? Also, will need a over flow canister and hoses.
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Andyrew |
Jun 21 2011, 11:02 AM
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#2
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Budget?
You could build a radiator system from $150 to $2000... |
pete |
Jun 21 2011, 12:46 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 23-August 10 From: New Jersey Member No.: 12,092 Region Association: North East States |
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messix |
Jun 21 2011, 12:52 PM
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#4
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AKA "CLUTCH KILLER"! Group: Members Posts: 6,995 Joined: 14-April 05 From: between shit kickers and pinky lifters/ puget sound wa.north of Seattle south of Canada Member No.: 3,931 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
from s10 v8 conversions they're using a stock late 80 corvette unit, the dimensions are right. http://www.s10v8.com/store/product.php?pro...t=32&page=2
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andys |
Jun 21 2011, 01:13 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None |
The only real semi-bolt-in system that I know of is the one offered by Rennegade; but you'll pay $$. If you want to do some fabrication and fit-up, then you can save some money by piecing things together yourself.
Andys |
BIGKAT_83 |
Jun 21 2011, 01:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,798 Joined: 25-January 03 From: Way down south Bogart,GA Member No.: 194 Region Association: South East States |
My favorite C&R Radiator comes in a 14x27.5" double pass closed system.
Another good radiator is theAfco 80133n this is listed in Summit racings catalog at about $100 less than the C&R and is 2" taller and takes up more trunk space Another tip is to use the Fans from a 1998 to 2004 Dodge Intrepid these will fit a 14x27.5 radiator with a little work. They are easy to fine in the pick and pulls and cost about $15 for the complete unit. One of the fan motors has a 2 speed winding and can run at a slower speed. Bob |
joefri187 |
Jun 21 2011, 02:00 PM
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#7
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 29 Joined: 1-November 05 From: Concord, CA Member No.: 5,047 Region Association: Northern California |
I need to purchase a radiator for my SBC conversion and am in need of some suggestions/part numbers. JEGS? Also, will need a over flow canister and hoses. I purchased a radiator ($150)and fans ($40) similar to these on Ebay. I have more pictures of how I mounted everything if you'd like. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-ALUMINU...1#ht_4173wt_951 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-Univers...#ht_6353wt_1139 |
Andyrew |
Jun 21 2011, 02:10 PM
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#8
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Joe,
Thats a nice looking setup! Nice sheet metal fabrication. If your on a "cheap as free" budget, pick up a used radiator and fan from like a Lincoln Mark Viii, and keep an eye on dumpsters at commercial/home A/C shops as They typically have 22guage metal scraps that they just toss. |
Andyrew |
Jun 21 2011, 02:15 PM
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#9
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Bob,
Pick and pull in my area would charge $45 for a dual fan assembly. |
pete |
Jun 21 2011, 02:20 PM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 23-August 10 From: New Jersey Member No.: 12,092 Region Association: North East States |
I need to purchase a radiator for my SBC conversion and am in need of some suggestions/part numbers. JEGS? Also, will need a over flow canister and hoses. I purchased a radiator ($150)and fans ($40) similar to these on Ebay. I have more pictures of how I mounted everything if you'd like. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-ALUMINU...1#ht_4173wt_951 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-Univers...#ht_6353wt_1139 This set up is more in line with my budget. More pics would be great. Does your set up keep things cool? It looks like you mounted it pretty much vertical. |
joefri187 |
Jun 21 2011, 02:55 PM
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#11
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 29 Joined: 1-November 05 From: Concord, CA Member No.: 5,047 Region Association: Northern California |
Here are a couple more pics...
The radiator is floating, not bolted directly to the frame as I've heard that bolting directly to the frame can cause the radiator to crack as there is a lot of expansion when hot... It sits on rubber mounts on the bottom and bolted on through rubber grommets along the top edge. And yes, it works great and everything stays cool!!! |
matthepcat |
Jun 21 2011, 03:25 PM
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#12
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Meat Popsicle Group: Members Posts: 1,462 Joined: 13-December 09 From: Saratoga CA Member No.: 11,125 Region Association: Northern California |
Fluidyne built one custom to my specs using the Pantera Core for $500.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img848.imageshack.us-11125-1308691537.1.jpg) |
BIGKAT_83 |
Jun 21 2011, 04:19 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,798 Joined: 25-January 03 From: Way down south Bogart,GA Member No.: 194 Region Association: South East States |
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BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jun 21 2011, 05:52 PM
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#14
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
In my setup I went with a Giffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap. The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". It's installed to float in its mounts versus mounted rigidly.
I also used one of the most powerful fans ever put in a production vehicle (Google it)... an early to mid-ninties Ford Taurus/Sable fan. I think the only one more powerful (and larger) is out of a Mark VIII. Local junk yard for $20.00. Note that fan shroud covers about 90% of radiator surface... perfect! Then of course, you need to get the controller, mine is an adjustable unit. So far so good!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Andyrew |
Jun 21 2011, 11:01 PM
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#15
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Bob, Pick and pull in my area would charge $45 for a dual fan assembly. $18 here and $3 dollars more gets you a 1 year warrenty. If it quits just take it back a get another set. Subaru transaxles are $60 California pick n pull rapes people. This I know... They find any way to jack up the price and wont cut the price if its broken. Check out pricing for 95350.. Prices are stupid expensive. I have spent 2 hours picking the part I need after checking the pricing online before hand, and I arrive at the checkout and they tell me the price is double (almost as much as a new part) what is listed. I have left so many parts at the counter after telling them i'll pay the price on the web site and them refusing. |
jcd914 |
Jun 22 2011, 10:41 AM
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#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,081 Joined: 7-February 08 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 8,684 Region Association: Northern California |
It's all relative.
When I needed a pair of fan motors for my Audi A6 I was happy to pay the $43.98 at Pick -N- Pull for a complete fan assemble (both fans and shroud) since the best price I could find was $139 each for fan motors if I ordered online, $169 each if I ordered thru local parts dealer (not a flaps). While I was out there I found a pair of stock leather power seats in the exact color as my S4 and picked those up for $42.99 each. So I save a good $230 on the fans and where can you get leather Recaro seats for $43 each, yes the stock seats in the are made by Recaro. Would I have prefered to pay less? Sure, I always want to pay less and PnP will screw you if they can. Jim |
pete |
Jun 22 2011, 01:02 PM
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#17
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Member Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 23-August 10 From: New Jersey Member No.: 12,092 Region Association: North East States |
In my setup I went with a Giffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap. The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". It's installed to float in its mounts versus mounted rigidly. I also used one of the most powerful fans ever put in a production vehicle (Google it)... an early to mid-ninties Ford Taurus/Sable fan. I think the only one more powerful (and larger) is out of a Mark VIII. Local junk yard for $20.00. Note that fan shroud covers about 90% of radiator surface... perfect! Then of course, you need to get the controller, mine is an adjustable unit. So far so good!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) This is a nice clean set up and I would be inclined to go with 1 fan rather then two as long as it keeps things cool. So you have a remote filler for the radiator? Also, those look like 2-3" hoses going through the floor. Are you running hoses that large of a diameter under the car? |
pete |
Jun 22 2011, 01:18 PM
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#18
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Member Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: 23-August 10 From: New Jersey Member No.: 12,092 Region Association: North East States |
Here are a couple more pics... The radiator is floating, not bolted directly to the frame as I've heard that bolting directly to the frame can cause the radiator to crack as there is a lot of expansion when hot... It sits on rubber mounts on the bottom and bolted on through rubber grommets along the top edge. And yes, it works great and everything stays cool!!! Thanks for the pics. Nice frame. I might go this route and make one out of aluminum square tube. Great idea to have it floating on rubber mounts. And I like this radiator. Is there plenty of room for the filler? When you purchase fans as you suggested do they come with some sort of controller? How is it wired? Thanks |
Andyrew |
Jun 22 2011, 01:25 PM
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#19
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Spooling.... Please wait Group: Members Posts: 13,377 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California |
Pete,
You wire them yourself, Typically on a switch or on a controller that is connected with the water temp sender (aka it activates at a certain temp). For getting around town you could just put it on a toggle switch and turn it on when it reaches temp (thats what I do). Also he is probably running the standard size hoses under the car, the big hoses at the radiator are because they are preformed to be able to make the angles required in the confined space, then you would run a reducer. The fill for the radiator will be in the engine compartment, This is because the radiator is lower than the engine and the fill needs to be the highest point to allow the air not to get trapped in the system. Best to run something inline that has a long neck or something so that you have room for air. See the modern radiator fills, they have a big box that has a level on it, water flows through that box in line and because there is a bunch of extra water in it it never gets air in the lines and it constantly is purging air. |
joefri187 |
Jun 22 2011, 02:05 PM
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#20
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 29 Joined: 1-November 05 From: Concord, CA Member No.: 5,047 Region Association: Northern California |
Andrew nailed it....
I used a Derale adjustable fan controller with a threaded temp sender instead of the probe type that pushes into the radiator. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16749/ I used an adapter similar to the one below for the sender unit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/32mm-1-1-4i...#ht_3609wt_1253 The filler and catch can are in the engine compartment. The hoses were adapted/reduced to 1" id green stripe hardwall and run under the car. |
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