5-Lug Vented Rotors on Rear, Some Questions Options

[Eric_Shea]

I'll expound now that I'm not on the iPhone.

You have two options as I see it:

1. remove the dust shield. Not a no-no. The factory recommends removing them for sports purpose vehicles to help keep the brakes cool(er).

2. remove the spacer and use the dust shield with distance washers under the caliper mounting ears. Again, not a no-no. Ferrari uses varying sizes of distance washers under their rear calipers of the same make. You may run into clearancing issues with the lip on the inner adjuster tube that runs through the arm (see SoCalAndy's recent posts on this in his thread).

3. (I lied... there's another option), you can still purchase 914-6/GT rear rotors from Germany. They will cost $250.00... each. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Spoke]

What is a distance washer?

I was thinking about cutting the brace on the vertical portions and extend the brace to attach on the top of the caliper mounting tab instead of below the tab.

[Spoke]

In order to keep the rock shield and not offset the calipers, I extended the shield bracket to mount on the back of the caliper.



The caliper needed to have a bit of its webbing filed to fit the bracket on the back.



Shield and bracket before mounting the caliper.



The caliper is nicely centered on the rotor now and the rock shield is securely mounted. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[jim_hoyland]

I'm looking at the same issues. Your solution is great, but I have a question. The pictures don't show this; where the calipers mount ( and center) without spacers before you made the longer bracket ?

My setup uses 2 washers between the control arm and the caliper; the bracket could replaces at least one of the brackets"

[Eric_Shea]

Jim,

In your situation, wouldn't the shield mount effectively act as "one" of your washers?

Jerry is using spacers under his rotor. You're going the route of under the mounting ears right?

Having the shield mount as your last (or first, depending on how you look at it) spacer should keep the original geometry the same.

Jerry, why did you end up grinding the caliper and not the (already modified) shield mount?

[jim_hoyland]

Thanks Eric, I forgot he used a spacer under the rotor, That makes sense. I'll use the dust shield bracket as one of my spacers. Everything else has fit well. After reading up on reseting the venting distances; should I wait until the tranny is back in and bolted to the CVs; or, can it be set now.

[Eric_Shea]

I wouldn't set the venting clearance until the CV's are in and the stub axle is torqued to spec. Once you are torqued up your hub and rotor will be solid enough to set the clearance.

[Jeff Hail]

Are those SC or Carrera rear rotors? Looks like the latter by the pics. Doesn't look like the pads are going to fit in there.

[Eric_Shea]

SC. If the rotor fits the groove the pads should fit.

[Matt Romanowski]

944s use 50mm studs. I was thinking the exact same thing as Andy. Throw an open ended nut on there and see if you're showing thread. If so, good to go. Otherwise, throw some 50's on there. Bruce Stone usually has some used ones laying around.

I would strongly suggest against using a used stud on a car. New ones are not that expensive and you have no idea of how a used one was used. Was it over torqued? In an accident and the wheel bounced off a curb?

For small dollars, you can go a long way to ensuring your safety.

[Spoke]

Jerry, why did you end up grinding the caliper and not the (already modified) shield mount?

I could have grinded the shield mount. Didn't think about it.

[Spoke]

Are those SC or Carrera rear rotors? Looks like the latter by the pics. Doesn't look like the pads are going to fit in there.

SC as Eric mentioned. I got the rotors from Eric and I was able to coax him to cut the rotor diameter to size. I couldn't find a shop around me who would do that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

On final install, the pads fit very nicely. Had a little issue getting the adjusters to pop out (it was over a year since the calipers were restored).

The one thing that I didn't like and still don't about the vented rotor adaptation is the rotor itself is not self centered now.

Because the spacer goes between the rotor and hub, the rotor no longer contacts the edge of the hub and loses the centering.

The mounting screws hold the rotor in place but do not provide very good centering. There's still a lot of play in the rotor concentricisity. I used a run-out gauge to center the rotors then tightened the rotors with the mounting screws.

[jim_hoyland]

Jim,

In your situation, wouldn't the shield mount effectively act as "one" of your washers?

Jerry is using spacers under his rotor. You're going the route of under the mounting ears right?

Having the shield mount as your last (or first, depending on how you look at it) spacer should keep the original geometry the same.

Jerry, why did you end up grinding the caliper and not the (already modified) shield mount?

Thanks ! Worked good. Had to glue the washers to the bracket in order to keep it together.

Got a While Your There question; I have a pair on new E-brake cables, will the old ones pull out after unhooking the ends that terminate at the e-brake handle ?

[DRPHIL914]

Jim,

I just did this, they should pull out after you unhook the cables inside behind the driver's seat. my problem was that they were rusted to the caliper solid! I had to cut the cable etc. I have not yet gotten to the point of setting the venting and bleeding them, i'm doing the front now first, and new master cylinder. good luck!

Jim,

In your situation, wouldn't the shield mount effectively act as "one" of your washers?

Jerry is using spacers under his rotor. You're going the route of under the mounting ears right?

Having the shield mount as your last (or first, depending on how you look at it) spacer should keep the original geometry the same.

Jerry, why did you end up grinding the caliper and not the (already modified) shield mount?

Thanks ! Worked good. Had to glue the washers to the bracket in order to keep it together.

Got a While Your There question; I have a pair on new E-brake cables, will the old ones pull out after unhooking the ends that terminate at the e-brake handle ?

[jim_hoyland]

[quote name='Philip W.' date='Feb 25 2014, 05:35 PM' post='2003108']
Jim,

I just did this, they should pull out after you unhook the cables inside behind the driver's seat. my problem was that they were rusted to the caliper solid! I had to cut the cable etc. I have not yet gotten to the point of setting the venting and bleeding them, i'm doing the front now first, and new master cylinder. good luck!


Thanks Phil. As I suspected. I have a small leak at the MC but haven't got to it yet.