914/6 resto warning, "rust"oration is more like it... Options

[Gint]

btw, being ex-cdn means that your version of snow is not exactly intimidating to me

I'm sure of that. What was significant was the date of this particular snow. It's not unheard of, but it's usually much less. On the up side, it was a beautiful sunny afternoon. The snow is just a memory now. Tomorrow will be a fine day for stripping paint.

See Ya.

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[Lawrence]

you've touched my cdn soft spot

The canadian dollar? ;-)

Ducking for cover,
Rusty

[krk]

you've touched my cdn soft spot

The canadian dollar? ;-)

Ducking for cover,
Rusty

Dude, you may have hit your head when ducking!

The us buck has sunk noticeably over the last several months -- most noticable against the euro -- I was over last summer and the euro was at something like 98 cents. Last week it was at 1.12 or so. The cnd buck has move up 5 or 6 cents as well -- it's moved enough to worry economists as a high cdn dollar hurst the export business and that's a pretty big chunk of the cdn economy. (I actually prefer it low, 'cause I get paid in US buck -- well at least when I work -- and it makes family trips home sort of shopping heaven :-)

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kim.

[ThinAir]

Mike -

As you go through the project on the rear quarter panel, I'd love to see more pictures of how you take the donor apart and put the panels onto the 6. I've got a 72 that is gonna need a right-rear quarter and I want to remove the old one in the cleanest way possible so seeing your process will be very helpful.

Also, what is the recommended treatment for body panels once you've got them down to bare metal. If you leave them bare, they'll likely get sureface rust before the body shop even gets to them. Is there something that is recommended to temporarily protect them from this?

My project is really small compared to what you are up against, but I really appreciate all the pictures so that we can all learn from this.

[Gint]

Nuts. Paint stripper, wire brush on the grinder, sanding, whatever. Stripping paint this way is waaaaaay too much labor. It's stooopid. There's a Din N Strip in town. It's that or media blasting for this quarter. It just isn't worth it.

As you go through the project on the rear quarter panel, I'd love to see more pictures of how you take the donor apart and put the panels onto the 6. I've got a 72 that is gonna need a right-rear quarter and I want to remove the old one in the cleanest way possible so seeing your process will be very helpful.

That was the biggest reason why I started this thread and maintain it with pics and progress. If you have specific Q's, don't hesitate to ask. I can take pics at a moments notice.

Also, what is the recommended treatment for body panels once you've got them down to bare metal. If you leave them bare, they'll likely get sureface rust before the body shop even gets to them. Is there something that is recommended to temporarily protect them from this?

Despite those snow pictures yesterday, Denver is a very dry climate. Flash rust doesn't happen real fast. But, to answer your question, a quick shot of primer after a days work removing paint will take care of that. I'm sure those that know a better method will share it with us. The stripping companies that I've seen or heard of shoot primer on the stripped part as soon as it comes out of the last rinse tank and is dried. I'll be sure to persue that option.

Update 5/19 - My body work guy said he has an acid wash that will remove any flash rust (and any thing else for that matter) that he uses prior to paint.



This project is more than my skills alone at this point can handle. A professional will be doing all of the metal/body work, and it will be farmed out from there for paint. I'm trying to do everything I can (grunt work) to avoid paying $45/hour to have him do it. He told me I could come over and do more grunt work while the car is in his shop to save myself some $$$. That will give me further opportunities to take pics. He's an hour across town though, so I will only be over there a couple of times a week.

My goal is to get all of the rust repaired properly. That is the utmost priority. The surface rust that is bubbling up on the left side of the car in spots will be repaired also. So I'm committed to a full exterior repaint as well. I don't think I'm going to pop for engine compartment, trunks, underside of floor pans to be painted. Only the exterior and the bare metal form the new quarter. That may change, we'll have to see after I get a professional looking over the car removing rust, etc... and we have a better idea of all the work that's going to be required.

I'd like to paint the floorpans under the car and inside the cockpit, the inner firewall, front trunk floor, etc... with POR 15 and topcoat with matched paint obtained when the car is being painted professionally (alternatively POR15 has an orange rock resistant top coat). I can do that myself after the car comes back. I need for this work to hold up over time, because I'm *NOT* building a garage queen.

This post has been edited by Gint: May 19 2003, 05:27 PM

[krk]

Mike,

This is the first pic -- it was after lunch. I think you were heading over for gas, and was about to take the 101 south onramp.

kim.

[krk]

Mike 'n' Mike,

This was at the lunch stop.

kim.

[Gint]

Thanks Kim!

Oil tank mounting thread

[Gint]

The more I get done on this project, the more I have to do. It looks like bondo OVER the factory paint.

[krk]

Dude,

These are 30 year old cars. I'm guessing we all encounter surprises when digging underneath.

(I do agree that it is... er.. "intersting" that the bondo is on *top* of the original paint. It's hard to say much positive about the quality of some of the work done on some these cars. Personally, I think the work you are doing is cool -- another one is getting a better-than-average shot at lasting another 30 years)

Keep those pics coming -- others are using them to give their rides a fighting chance!

kim.

[Gint]

I know. It's frustrating though to find more work around every corner.

[krk]

Mike,

I'm with you on the frustration. Worse, untill you go around every corner, you can say for sure that you won't find somethihg ... er... "interesting". (believe me, it's happening here too) But you've got around most of the corners that there are, and while there may be other "bings" along the way, there just isn't too many new opportunities to drive you crazy -- (shallow conselation, I know)

But the car looked great in the "day one pics" and it will ROCK on completion.

And we'll all get something out of your travel. And that always deserves "thanks",
and even more, it deserves -- (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

kim.

[Gint]

Thanks for the encouragement Kim. I do appreciate it.

[Gint]

It looks like a marathon weekend ahead for me. The plan is to have the car to the shop next Saturday. Body guy says (as I expected and planned to do anyway) that the bondo has to come out. I asked him how he was going to fix all of the thin wavy panels. "Oh I'll metal work 'em." This guy is old school. I've seen a steel top he made for a 32 street rod, out of flat sheet stock. Nice. I shudder to think what it's going to cost me. The replacement quarter, front and rear lids all were dropped off at the stripper today.

The car is on the trailer and ready for the car wash tomorrow (early). Once I get the engine bay and inner fender wells cleaned up, the oil tank, bumpers, lights etc... will all be removed. Then the paint stripping really begins. I hope to have the exterior panels down to bare metal (or very nearly complete) by Sunday evening.

[Gint]

Oil tank is out. I posted a new thread to find out what to do with it.

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All of the oil from the tank preserved this quarter pretty well. Oil leaks do serve a purpose sometimes.

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I almost hate to remove the sail panel vinyl. Oh well, it's gotta go.

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From the looks of this trim piece and the paint on the bottom of it from the poor mask job at the previous repaint, I think the vinyl is original to the car.

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All of that rust in the right quarter, but yet the rear trunk still holds water. This was an hour after I got back from the car wash.

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Tons of bondo over the factory paint. I'll be sanding for a long time.

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I could have fixed the very small bend in the lip that someone bondoed over. There's is well over 1.8" of the stuff on this lip.

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Tomorrow's another day.

[Gint]

Before - Still looks kinda purty....

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If you think that bubbly rust is not going to be a big deal...

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Here's the after shot

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This spot looked just like the last one before paint removal

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After -

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Tools of the trade

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Looks like I can get the car to the shop a week from Tuesday (first business day after Memorial weekend). That should give me time to finish up with parts and glass removal and do the finish/detail sanding. I'm going to take my wife out to dinner now. I'm beat. And burnt.

[krk]

Mike,

This car is going to turn out awesome. No kidding. The ground work you are doing is the ugly necessary bit. Your perserverance will be worth it. The work you are doing looks really good. (kill that rust deamon! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fighting19.gif) )

I can't wati to see it again!

kim.

ps. get a new fuel pump.

[Gint]

Thanks Kim. I'll be able to breath easier when it get to the shop. I'll probably still put in 20 hours a week on it when it's at the metal shop. Once it goes for paint (seperate shops), I'm off the hook for labor until it's finished. Then I get to put it all back together. That will probably take twice as long as it took to take it apart. I think I'll move the schedule out. I'll be happy if I can do some Fall driving.

ps. get a new fuel pump.

Did you mean for me to get a fuel pump, or you got a fuel pump? Car running again? Out looking for vandals?

[ThinAir]

If you are looking for a "new" fuel pump - I've got the one that didn't work for my project. It looks just like a 4 cyl FI pump, but only puts out 5-10 psi. Mike suggested that it might be a 6 cyl pump, but I haven't been able to match the numbers to anything.

[SirAndy]

If you are looking for a "new" fuel pump - I've got the one that didn't work for my project.  It looks just like a 4 cyl FI pump, but only puts out 5-10 psi.  Mike suggested that it might be a 6 cyl pump, but I haven't been able to match the numbers to anything.

Ernie,
maybe i missed it, but what are the numbers on that fuel-pump in question ?

Andy