Cary's 73 1.7 Rustoration Thread Options

[cary]

Here's the fit we're working on.
Plus keeping the door gap at a perfect 5mm.



Seam sealer and under coat will make the less than stellar patch disappear like magic.
But I'll know its there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[cary]

Here's the test fit at the end of the day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[cary]

Prepped the heater tubes for installation.

Next step is to encapsulate the inside. Finish up welding on the patch on the heater tube corner in the engine compartment. Get that all sanitary and seam sealed before the heater tube is tacked in.

[FourBlades]

Awesome thread man!

You are really getting there.

I always found using the bzzt bzzt bzzt technique of just making one large tack weld after another to be the easiest way to deal with the old metal on these cars. You start the next tack weld while the previous one is still red hot. Putting the next tack on the edge of the red hot one prevents any problems getting the arc going cleanly.

It ends up looking like this. This was tacked at 3 inch intervals all the way around and then filled in slowly.



Looking forward to seeing your car back on its wheels again.

John

[cary]

Nice work. Thanks for the tip.

[cary]

Had another great day.
Spent most the day just puttering in the shop.
Tidied up the office shop. It had six months of just sitting things down everywhere.
Now we're all tidied up.

Then I went after finishing up heater tube corner.



All seam sealed up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[cary]

After smoothing out the opening. I test fit the heater tube.



Then I test fit the muffler.

[cary]

Now its time to seal up the long.
Going to be spraying in Eastwood Antirust.





The Eastwood kit worked pretty good. A little too cold for the extensions and the tubes to work. Hopefully it will be a little warmer on my next day off.
Then I can spray the inside of the wheelhouse. The one flex tube sprays like lawn sprinkler. Should work perfect.
Might need to cut it with solvent it it doesn't get warm enough.

[cary]

Most of the day off was spent re-leveling the car. It still amazes me how flexible it is without a long on the passenger side. This time a few less jacks. Added some weight to the trunk. Hillbilly bench adjustment



Inner long is fitted, welded in and sealed up on the drivers side.
One thing to remember. Don't forget to install the front heater tube into the long before you weld it back in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yellowsleep[1].gif)
Welded in the heater tube to the engine compartment.
After the struggle getting the front heater tube in. It's ready to be welded. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

So now its time to get back to the passenger long. Right now its disconnected at the front fire wall, mid fire wall and the wheel house.

[76-914]

Wow, I hadn't checked your build in a few month's and you've got a lot done. Nice work. Wish I lived close enough to view in person. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[gifted914]

Great SUPERINLAW.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[cary]

It feels like its taking forever ..............................
Thanks for the words of encouragement.

I'm hoping once both longs are attached things will pick up. I spend a lot of time checking and double checking the door gaps and the windshield to targa bar gap.

I don't remember if I mentioned that this car was a front clip repair. Which aligned well. But the workmanship was poor.

It's getting a little cold here in PDX. Next project is to replace a couple sections in the wood stove pipe.

[cary]

Here's the next piece we need to recreate. McMark called it the torque box.
The new outer long doesn't come with that piece.
In flipping thru the pages in the Body 914 manual. It looks like its a seperate piece.
Here's the new outer long from RD.

You'll see where the block and c-clamp is attached doesn't have the torque box.
Now you see the NOS door pillar. It doesn't contain the bottom of the torque box either.

But here's a picture with the door off.

Here's where we need to get too.

[cary]

As I wrote the last post I'm thinking I have a good piece for the drivers side that I took off of the long I bought from Perry @ 914 Network.
When I get to the shop I'll have to do some digging.

Nothing has been tossed yet.

[cary]

Post #123 & #124 show the piece I took off of Perry's drivers long.
Looks like it will need some patching.
Or maybe I'll make a new one and save this one for a pattern. Hmmm.

Here's the piece I'm looking for.

It has to be created like the factory piece so it will fit under the RD frame stiffener.

But after spending an entire day tinkering with the door alignment. This is one of the most important attachment points on the car. Very critical in the upper 1/2 of the door alignment.

I think I'll some research on the PET to see if the part exists.
Off I go to the shop ....................

[cary]

I stand corrected. The NOS part picture is the complete part.
The blue car looks like it has an RD 346 frame stiffener installed.
The primered car is Jeff Hail's 1st. class metal work.

It's interesting how these pieces are layered together.
If you would want to take this apart in the future you can't put any welds behind that torque box at the bottom of the a-pillar. Hmmmm.

[cary]

Time to fire up the heat...



Dr's ready to go to work.

[cary]

Nice to see that the door gap held up.



Would just need a small tweak to level up enough to weld the outer long in place.

[cary]

Found the part in the parts pile.



Here's the place that needs repaired.

[cary]

Here's the only patch I had to put in.



Pattern cut out of cardboard.



Patch ready to weld in. Old metal got a little religious on me.