Cary's 73 1.7 Rustoration Thread Options

[914forme]

Wow lots of good information here.

ESAB Easy Grind 0.023" wire. It has a lower tensile strength, and can be hammer welded easier. Only use it for sheet metal body work. Go back to normal wire for anything that have a load on it. Less heat, easy to grind dow, and then since it is a low carbon steel, it can be hammered and dollied back into shape.

BTW how did the SPI work out?

[cary]

I'll have to look for the wire. I'm using Hobart .024 now, it cools pretty hard. I did tinker with hammering the rosette welds on the jack support yesterday. They harden pretty quick. I'll take a trip to AirGas for lunch.

SPI Epoxy, I like it. The portions that needed to be sanded so I could blend in the adjacent area look to have great adhesion. Yesterday was a change of gun and tips. Plus I used my touch up gun to cut in the tight areas. Once I got it dialed in, it laid down real nice.

The first application (couple weeks ago) had a few fish eyes on the first fender. I didn't let the Wax & Grease remover flash off completely. My Bad. If all else fails, follow the instructions. I ordered their W&G Remover on the order I placed Wednesday.

I'm going to bring an old fashioned egg timer from home.

[cary]

I'll have to look for the wire. I'm using Hobart .024 now, it cools pretty hard. I did tinker with hammering the rosette welds on the jack support yesterday. They harden pretty quick. I'll take a trip to AirGas for lunch.

Airgas was a no go. They only carry .030. I have a roll coming from weldersupply.com.
Irony is, is that I only have a couple of pieces from my huge RD order left to go.
Engine shelf, trunk hinge mount and battery mount and tray. But I still need to order the long stiffener kit from Maddog.

http://www.maddogsmotorsports.com/

[cary]

Back to the fender support patch.

Here it is having weld thru primer shot on the portion that will slide into the hem on the fender patch.



That primer portion will slide into the hem you see here.



Here is a couple shots of it installed both front and back.





The hem has been left loose until I install the doors. After that I'll either spot weld or tighten the hem and 2 part seam seal.

The bumpy welds you see are usually welding on top of old welds. I probably don't give them quite enough heat.

[cary]

When I got out to the shop the body temped at 60 degrees. Not too bad. But air temp in the shop was 55. So I'll need to figure something out.

So here she is ..............

[cary]

New Episode of Tool Whore .............

Dragging the air regulator and the filter into tight places with the spray gun is a PIA.
I'm going fabricate an air hose union on a stand mounted to an old heavy truck brake disk. Then have a short 6-10 ft. hose made to go to the gun.

I had a bitch of a time getting into here .............
Without on a rotisserie I don't know how you'd get the coverage I'm looking for. It will still need more more work after I build my stand.

[cary]

Too cold to shoot primer .............. 60 degrees (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I was going to mix up some primer and load it in the PreVal to try and spray into the fender lips. That is one tough spot to get at.

[cary]

So on to installing the passenger side engine shelf. I'd been putting this off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Tinkered with it a couple times, I knew it was going to take some time.

Started by watching Adam's video from RD a couple time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZGf9yaFHEk

Here we go ..............



I paused Adam's video quite a few times to see where he did the bending and cutting.

[cary]

Words of wisdom.
You'll have trouble with lining up the new one with where you cut out the old rotten one.
Back engine shelf. Rear corner.

Most of the three hours of fitting was spent right in the hell hole corner.



Then I had to cut just a smidgen off the engine seal rail at the fire wall rail corner.



Most of the work was done with the floor vise, anvil, body hammers and these pliers.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-23EL5-8-Inch-L...t/dp/B0000TFGFU

After three hours it was fitted and ready to be welded in.

[cary]

Back from Subway and ready to go ................

No real issues with welding it in. Except that dumbass used too much weld thru primer, again.





Shot from underneath .............

[cary]

Ok, on to the bad news.
The rear corner will need some reworking fabrication. Tomorrows project



So while working on the side shelf I decided that the rear shelf needed some tender loving care.



Off came the rail. I actually tried Rick's spot weld removal technique. All I did was use my auto center punch from HF. Then drilled a dimple in the spot weld then popped it off with a screw driver. Easy Deal.



An hour or so with the hammer and dolly and the multiple wire wheels on die grinders.
I'll give it some more love tomorrow. Then give it a spray down with OSPHO.

[cary]

I was on a roll ............. off came the broken rear trunk hinge pivot.

[trojanhorsepower]

Cary,
The trunk pivot point is one of my upcoming projects, what process will you use to line up the new part?

[cary]

The part lays up against an overlap seam for starters.
Then I line it up with the marks I made with the spot weld cutter. The only issue that I saw was that new part is just a smidgen smaller.

One could make a cross with a scratch awl in the pivot opening. But with amount of adjustment you have on the trunk it's not real critical , + or - 1/16. IMHO.

[Olympic 914]

I had a bitch of a time getting into here .............
Without on a rotisserie I don't know how you'd get the coverage I'm looking for. It will still need more more work after I build my stand.

I had the same problem... and I am working without a rotisserie.

I found this Devilbiss kit that uses plastic bags inside the HVLP cup.

Devilbiss OMX-70-K10





You squeeze the air out of the bag and sealing it after pouring the paint in and you can paint almost upside down. twisting the gun in directions you really couldn't paint before.

They claim you can paint upside down but I couldn't manage that. but it was invaluable for painting inside the fenders and laying under the car and spraying the pan.

It doesn't work perfectly though, still sometimes sputters but you don't have paint leaking out of the vent hole and pouring all over you.. That alone is a big plus. I just use quart freezer bags for economy, (but NOT the ones with sliders)
the supplied bags ARE heavier though. It also saves on a lot of solvent when cleaning up the gun, you just turn the gun upside down and pull out the bag. the cup stays pretty clean. Be sure to save the insert you put in the bags. I reuse them multiple times.




I enjoy following your progress. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[cary]

Back to work ............

Started by cutting out the tore up end panel. If IIRC it wasn't so much rusted as it was over welded, imagine that. Who'd do some thing like that. Factory Weld. I swear I didn't touch it.



Patch cut out. Added a ramp (kinda) with the vise and a hammer.



Fitting the patch. Lots of back and forth to the grinder. Touch ups with the die grinder.



Time to weld it into place. Cut off the excess with a cut off wheel.





Ground it down a smidgen more after the picture was taken. This area will get sprayed on seam seal so not real critical.

[cary]

Now on to the inside. Once again it was kinda messy getting the old engine shelf out.
Big rosette welds. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Plus its a new upper long.



Off to the shear to cut out the patch.



All welded in .................



Fairly straight forward welding. All new metal. Just reset when going from 18 to 18 vs 18 to 16 or 14 (long).
This area too will get sprayed with seam sealer.

[cary]

Now on to the rear RD, Engine bay channel, must be bent to fit. Sorry to say I couldn't get it to bend without buckling the channel. Maybe getting out the torch would have worked. But it too would have deformed the channel. So I cut slits in it. Bent real easy then. LOL.
If I every put the piece on a CW car I'll need a new plan. Or at least 2 or 3 pieces to tinker with.





Pretty straight forward. I did go in and clean out the slits with the edge of the cut off wheel so I don't have issues installing the seal before I installed it. Did the same after I did with the rosettes after welding. Ran a small flat screw driver along the inside to feel for burs.

After I decided to cut the slits I should have pulled out the spot welder.

Note to Self, Next time. Cut slits. Hold in place with clamps. Use spot welder.

[cary]

Last project for the day. Welding in the trunk hinge pivot.

[cary]

I had the same problem... and I am working without a rotisserie.

I found this Devilbiss kit that uses plastic bags inside the HVLP cup.

Devilbiss OMX-70-K10





You squeeze the air out of the bag and sealing it after pouring the paint in and you can paint almost upside down. twisting the gun in directions you really couldn't paint before.

They claim you can paint upside down but I couldn't manage that. but it was invaluable for painting inside the fenders and laying under the car and spraying the pan.

It doesn't work perfectly though, still sometimes sputters but you don't have paint leaking out of the vent hole and pouring all over you.. That alone is a big plus. I just use quart freezer bags for economy, (but NOT the ones with sliders)
the supplied bags ARE heavier though. It also saves on a lot of solvent when cleaning up the gun, you just turn the gun upside down and pull out the bag. the cup stays pretty clean. Be sure to save the insert you put in the bags. I reuse them multiple times.




I enjoy following your progress. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


I can't imagine getting into those nooks and cranny's without a rotisserie.
Thanks for the heads up. Off I go to AutoBodyToolMart.com