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> Cary's 73 1.7 Rustoration Thread
cary
post Oct 24 2015, 07:52 AM
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New Episode of Tool Whore .............

Dragging the air regulator and the filter into tight places with the spray gun is a PIA.
I'm going fabricate an air hose union on a stand mounted to an old heavy truck brake disk. Then have a short 6-10 ft. hose made to go to the gun.

I had a bitch of a time getting into here .............
Without on a rotisserie I don't know how you'd get the coverage I'm looking for. It will still need more more work after I build my stand.

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cary
post Oct 27 2015, 09:04 PM
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Too cold to shoot primer .............. 60 degrees (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I was going to mix up some primer and load it in the PreVal to try and spray into the fender lips. That is one tough spot to get at.

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cary
post Oct 27 2015, 09:15 PM
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So on to installing the passenger side engine shelf. I'd been putting this off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Tinkered with it a couple times, I knew it was going to take some time.

Started by watching Adam's video from RD a couple time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZGf9yaFHEk

Here we go ..............

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I paused Adam's video quite a few times to see where he did the bending and cutting.



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cary
post Oct 27 2015, 09:37 PM
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Words of wisdom.
You'll have trouble with lining up the new one with where you cut out the old rotten one.
Back engine shelf. Rear corner.

Most of the three hours of fitting was spent right in the hell hole corner.

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Then I had to cut just a smidgen off the engine seal rail at the fire wall rail corner.

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Most of the work was done with the floor vise, anvil, body hammers and these pliers.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-23EL5-8-Inch-L...t/dp/B0000TFGFU

After three hours it was fitted and ready to be welded in.

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cary
post Oct 27 2015, 09:43 PM
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Back from Subway and ready to go ................

No real issues with welding it in. Except that dumbass used too much weld thru primer, again.

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Shot from underneath .............

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cary
post Oct 27 2015, 10:07 PM
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Ok, on to the bad news.
The rear corner will need some reworking fabrication. Tomorrows project

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So while working on the side shelf I decided that the rear shelf needed some tender loving care.

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Off came the rail. I actually tried Rick's spot weld removal technique. All I did was use my auto center punch from HF. Then drilled a dimple in the spot weld then popped it off with a screw driver. Easy Deal.

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An hour or so with the hammer and dolly and the multiple wire wheels on die grinders.
I'll give it some more love tomorrow. Then give it a spray down with OSPHO.
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cary
post Oct 27 2015, 10:19 PM
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I was on a roll ............. off came the broken rear trunk hinge pivot.

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trojanhorsepower
post Oct 28 2015, 07:11 PM
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Cary,
The trunk pivot point is one of my upcoming projects, what process will you use to line up the new part?
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cary
post Oct 28 2015, 09:04 PM
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The part lays up against an overlap seam for starters.
Then I line it up with the marks I made with the spot weld cutter. The only issue that I saw was that new part is just a smidgen smaller.

One could make a cross with a scratch awl in the pivot opening. But with amount of adjustment you have on the trunk it's not real critical , + or - 1/16. IMHO.
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Olympic 914
post Oct 29 2015, 07:37 AM
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QUOTE(cary @ Oct 24 2015, 09:52 AM) *



I had a bitch of a time getting into here .............
Without on a rotisserie I don't know how you'd get the coverage I'm looking for. It will still need more more work after I build my stand.

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I had the same problem... and I am working without a rotisserie.

I found this Devilbiss kit that uses plastic bags inside the HVLP cup.

Devilbiss OMX-70-K10

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You squeeze the air out of the bag and sealing it after pouring the paint in and you can paint almost upside down. twisting the gun in directions you really couldn't paint before.

They claim you can paint upside down but I couldn't manage that. but it was invaluable for painting inside the fenders and laying under the car and spraying the pan.

It doesn't work perfectly though, still sometimes sputters but you don't have paint leaking out of the vent hole and pouring all over you.. That alone is a big plus. I just use quart freezer bags for economy, (but NOT the ones with sliders)
the supplied bags ARE heavier though. It also saves on a lot of solvent when cleaning up the gun, you just turn the gun upside down and pull out the bag. the cup stays pretty clean. Be sure to save the insert you put in the bags. I reuse them multiple times.

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I enjoy following your progress. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)




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cary
post Oct 29 2015, 07:52 AM
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Back to work ............

Started by cutting out the tore up end panel. If IIRC it wasn't so much rusted as it was over welded, imagine that. Who'd do some thing like that. Factory Weld. I swear I didn't touch it.

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Patch cut out. Added a ramp (kinda) with the vise and a hammer.

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Fitting the patch. Lots of back and forth to the grinder. Touch ups with the die grinder.

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Time to weld it into place. Cut off the excess with a cut off wheel.

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Ground it down a smidgen more after the picture was taken. This area will get sprayed on seam seal so not real critical.
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cary
post Oct 29 2015, 08:10 AM
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Now on to the inside. Once again it was kinda messy getting the old engine shelf out.
Big rosette welds. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Plus its a new upper long.

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Off to the shear to cut out the patch.

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All welded in .................

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Fairly straight forward welding. All new metal. Just reset when going from 18 to 18 vs 18 to 16 or 14 (long).
This area too will get sprayed with seam sealer.
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cary
post Oct 29 2015, 08:29 AM
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Now on to the rear RD, Engine bay channel, must be bent to fit. Sorry to say I couldn't get it to bend without buckling the channel. Maybe getting out the torch would have worked. But it too would have deformed the channel. So I cut slits in it. Bent real easy then. LOL.
If I every put the piece on a CW car I'll need a new plan. Or at least 2 or 3 pieces to tinker with.

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Pretty straight forward. I did go in and clean out the slits with the edge of the cut off wheel so I don't have issues installing the seal before I installed it. Did the same after I did with the rosettes after welding. Ran a small flat screw driver along the inside to feel for burs.

After I decided to cut the slits I should have pulled out the spot welder.

Note to Self, Next time. Cut slits. Hold in place with clamps. Use spot welder.
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cary
post Oct 29 2015, 08:31 AM
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Last project for the day. Welding in the trunk hinge pivot.

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cary
post Oct 29 2015, 12:09 PM
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I had the same problem... and I am working without a rotisserie.

I found this Devilbiss kit that uses plastic bags inside the HVLP cup.

Devilbiss OMX-70-K10

Attached Image

Attached Image

You squeeze the air out of the bag and sealing it after pouring the paint in and you can paint almost upside down. twisting the gun in directions you really couldn't paint before.

They claim you can paint upside down but I couldn't manage that. but it was invaluable for painting inside the fenders and laying under the car and spraying the pan.

It doesn't work perfectly though, still sometimes sputters but you don't have paint leaking out of the vent hole and pouring all over you.. That alone is a big plus. I just use quart freezer bags for economy, (but NOT the ones with sliders)
the supplied bags ARE heavier though. It also saves on a lot of solvent when cleaning up the gun, you just turn the gun upside down and pull out the bag. the cup stays pretty clean. Be sure to save the insert you put in the bags. I reuse them multiple times.

Attached Image


I enjoy following your progress. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


I can't imagine getting into those nooks and cranny's without a rotisserie.
Thanks for the heads up. Off I go to AutoBodyToolMart.com
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cary
post Oct 29 2015, 12:22 PM
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Hindsight ................

The back edge/flap on the engine shelf/shock tower/rear trunk fire wall belongs on the outside. I shouldn't have cut the corners off either.
I think that will be a piece I surgically remove from my parts car. On a CW car that would be tough to replicate, its a pressure formed piece.

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This might be my last installment for a while. For those left coast folks, I manage one of the Haggen supermarkets that is being liquidated. Liquidation starts tomorrow ........
I think I'll be in the store till mid December. After that ................... time will tell.

I've got about 3/4's of a new career left to go. Kind of leaving my options open.
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worn
post Oct 29 2015, 12:40 PM
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QUOTE(cary @ Oct 29 2015, 11:22 AM) *




FWIW my mom used to take me grocery shopping to the first QFC. I suggest liberating a case of smoked salmon, a box of filets, and a very old whisky of cognac. Oh, you said liquidated. Sorry, but with your skills I cannot see this lasting long. I suppose though you might end up posted farther away, and twice as busy. I do love your stuff. Best of luck all around.

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cary
post Oct 29 2015, 12:40 PM
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After welding in the trunk pivot I'm almost out of parts to weld in.
So I've placed a couple orders.

* Spool of Easyweld .023 wire. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Lots of work to do in the inside of the doors.
* Battery tray from RD, used the other one on the white car.
* Inner Long Stiffener and Front Sway Bar Reinforcement Panels, from Maddog.
* Suspension Ear reinforcements and braces from Chris @ Tangerine.

A box of Epoxy Primer and prep showed up from SPI yesterday. Next project will be SAFE heaters for the hillbilly paint booth.

When I get a chance to come up for air .............

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cary
post Nov 4 2015, 08:30 AM
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AX season is over ................

Time for a bit more horsepower. I stumbled upon a pair of SSI's for the 3.2. I need to go and talk to Dr. Gamroth an see what other couple pieces I need to blend with that.

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To get to the winners circle sometimes you need to tighten up your line. But not this tight. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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cary
post Nov 6 2015, 08:17 AM
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Haven't lost my Thursday off, Yet ...........

So we hook up the enclosed trailer to take the 911 out to it's winter home.

My primary project today is to determine if I can create a space to maintain 70 degrees so I can paint. So I start with shop lights directly on the metal to see what I can get. Ambient is 52. Looks like I can get 72-74, but a fairly small area.

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We stop and pick up a couple diary heaters and some light timers on the way back from lunch. I'm a little paranoid about fires so I'm proceeding slowly. All my Porsche's have a Halon extinguisher right in front of the passenger seat.

Hope for the best, plan for the worst

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