Cary's 73 1.7 Rustoration Thread Options

[cary]

Right angle drill adapter?

Ben,
That's one of the things I'm looking at. It will need to be either the small Snap On or Milwaukie.

Joe,
I spent a bunch of time staring at all the gadgets at Home Depot yesterday.

The other item I'm thinking of is a longer 3/8" pneumatic sanding belt. The primary issue is the width inside the fender.

[cary]

Finally found some crushed plastic to clean the steering racks Mark's going to be rebuilding. So I decided to tidy up and label all my different buckets of blasting media.

[cary]

1. I think the glass beads leave to open/rough of a finish. You'll need to come by and take a look.
2. I'm thinking plastic beads or soda ............... I'll see what I can come up with.
3. Need to come up with some plastic plugs for the rack openings when its in the blast cabinet. I need to get an idea of how tight the tolerances are.

We'll give the plastic beads a try in the am.

[cary]

Loaded the glass beads into the blaster.
They gave me the finish I was looking for. Doesn't cut into base material too much.


Mark they're ready to be picked up ...........

[altitude411]

Cary, is the difference in the racks an early/late thing ?

*Thanks for the fantastic threads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

Right angle drill adapter?

Ben,
That's one of the things I'm looking at. It will need to be either the small Snap On or Milwaukie.

Joe,
I spent a bunch of time staring at all the gadgets at Home Depot yesterday.

The other item I'm thinking of is a longer 3/8" pneumatic sanding belt. The primary issue is the width inside the fender.

The Milwaukie may be a little more tool than you need. Two good features are:1, the head can rotate about it's axis as related to the handle so it can adapt to odd angles; 2, by flipping the head it transforms from hi to lo speed or vice versa. They're big 'n heavy but very well made. I've had mine for 30+ years! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[cary]

Cary, is the difference in the racks an early/late thing ?

*Thanks for the fantastic threads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I was told the left one is a 911 ............. Mark is planning to start a rebuild service on those also.

[mepstein]

Loaded the glass beads into the blaster.
They gave me the finish I was looking for. Doesn't cut into base material too much.

Mark they're ready to be picked up ...........

You need to vapor blast them. They will look like new.

[cary]

The Milwaukie may be a little more tool than you need. Two good features are:1, the head can rotate about it's axis as related to the handle so it can adapt to odd angles; 2, by flipping the head it transforms from hi to lo speed or vice versa. They're big 'n heavy but very well made. I've had mine for 30+ years! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Here's the ones I'm looking at.

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2415...iWjsRoC3xjw_wcB

https://store.snapon.com/90-Angle-Drill-Set...t--P634533.aspx

The Milwaukee might be too big. The Snap On might not accept my spot weld cutters.

[76-914]

The Milwaukie may be a little more tool than you need. Two good features are:1, the head can rotate about it's axis as related to the handle so it can adapt to odd angles; 2, by flipping the head it transforms from hi to lo speed or vice versa. They're big 'n heavy but very well made. I've had mine for 30+ years! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Here's the ones I'm looking at.

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2415...iWjsRoC3xjw_wcB

https://store.snapon.com/90-Angle-Drill-Set...t--P634533.aspx

The Milwaukee might be too big. The Snap On might not accept my spot weld cutters.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) Missed it by a mile, I did! This is the one I was referring to. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/3102-6

[cary]

That's what I thought you had. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
I would probably have to remove the entire qtr. panel to use that.

[PlantMan]

Cary, I watched a recent video on YouTube of a guy using a 3/8" belt sander on spot welds. That may be the ticket for this tight area???
You mentioned this earlier.

[cary]

I have one, but I think it will be too short. So I'd need to buy a longer one.
The opening above the jack point wouldn't be wide enough for the gear box.

The one I have is a 13". I bought it to use in the same way you watched in the video. But as time goes on I'm finding more and more uses. Like the circled area in Doug's car. It was brazed rather than spot welded. After getting the cutting wheel in as close as I could without nicking the primary material. I was left with a 3-4mm stub of brazed metal. So I cut that down with the belt sander. Nice and tidy. I also use it to knock the remaining tops off the spot welds after the outer metal is pulled away.



I currently have 2 Astro 13" sanders. One at Rothsport, one at Forest Grove. They work as designed. But just a bit loud for the boys at Rothsport. They'd never done any kind of chassis prep in house before I came on board, it had always been farmed out. So when one of these give up the ghost I'll replace it with a quieter brand for the work at Rothsport. The 13" HF is the same design as my 13" Astros. But the quality just isn't quite high enough. I had one of those first. The belt tensioner came apart pretty quickly.

Here's a couple longer models from Astro.
http://www.astrotools.com/index.php/air-to...lts-80-100.html

[mb911]

Dyna file?

[cary]

I'm thinking this might be the one ....................
The question being, how much width do I have 8-9 inches out from that last inside spot weld? We'll do some measuring on Thursday.



http://www.cpojettools.com/jet-505752-r8-1...default,pd.html

https://www.mcmaster.com/#sanding-belts/=15cgogt

[worn]

Looking ahead to changing out the jack points on Doug's car I'm going to try and devise a tool plan to drill/cut those top spot welds so it can be changed without cutting a hole in the door jam. There's got to be a way ..............

I would have used a carbide ball cutter on a 1/4" straight die cutter. I like the electric one from HF set on a dimmer for speed control. The ball cuts side ways. No angle needed. Faster than the dremel but the same idea.

[cary]

Hmmmmm......
Another twist. I have an extended length die grinder. I'll measure that too on Thursday.

[cary]

Doug's car is on the rotisserie so it's time to get after the jack points.
I decided not to clutter Doug's thread with this jack point removal conversation.
I started with the portion that is exposed on the rocker panel.


I'm using what I call the Rick (rick 918-s) method when I can can discard the outer layer/panel. I've covered this before. But here's a little more detail.
The thing I'd like to add. When you get comfortable with the cutting disk on the mandrel.


I cut down each spot weld with the cutting wheel like I've discussed before. But what I've learned over these many projects is too take it out in small portions. But you have to be real careful when making cross cuts in the outer layer. Sometimes I make a bowed portion to make the cross cut. You don't want to cut/damage the primary material.

Don't put too much leverage on the screw driver. You can rip the spot weld out which would leave you an unnecessary hole.





Had to bring out the big guns for the cut across the top of the jack tube. It allows you to use a sawzall blade.

[cary]

I went with Worn's suggestion of using an extended length carbide cutter.

Air tool is a little wild. I might take a look at Worn's suggestion of the HF electric one.
But think I'll try the regulator that I use for paint guns for a start.

When I ran out of length I added a tube to the extra Steck spot weld cutter Doug bought for me.


First couple popped off pretty easy. The inside couple took quite a while.




I'll probably still buy the 24" belt sander. The 24" will be 1/2 inch wide which should just about cover the entire shelf. Nice finish

There's just a little tidbit right under the door jamb I couldn't get at with the 13".

This one took about 3 1/2 hours. Next one should be faster if the rust is about the same.

[cary]

Installing a Front Arch Fill In from Tuthill Racing on our G body rental rally car.


Getting lots of practice ....... practice .................. practice