My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Don't have that motor so can't help, but are you sure it's the belt? Drip some water onto the belt's grooves when it's running and if the squeaking stops it's the rubber, if not it's something else. Might juust need tightening, might need to be replaced. Belts can also get glazed and when the alternator's pulling a lot of power for a low battery it can slip the belt, then once it's not charging as much it'll improve. If it's not the belt making the noise it could be an idler or alternator bearing, especially if the belt's over-tight.

If it's not stock you can get any belt you want at any parts store, just take in yours and measure. You have a three-rib belt? On four or five rib pulleys? Sounds odd, but it's all still stock, isn't it? If so just get the right replacement.

Yeah I'm sure it's the belt DB but thanks for the ideas....I can smell it...it must be a little too loose or too thin for the application so its slipping. It's not stock, normally there is a 4 rib belt (I think) driving both the alternator and the power steering pump. I removed the pump which also housed the tensioner. So the stock belt is way too big now. Unfortunately this means I have to figure out EXACTLY what size belt to buy or make a tensioner somehow. Initially I used a 25inch belt, so I might try a 4 rib 24.5 inch and see if that works.

[Chris H.]

That's awesome man. Great work.

Damn-satisfying to finally be at a point where you can see the end.

Thanks! Getting it started is the most concerning part. If it doesn't start it could be a million things. You start thinking about the things you might have messed up along the way. I thought maybe the timing belt wasn't right because it wasn't idling, but realized I just needed to take up the slack in the throttle body and its fine now. Except for the SQUEEAAAAAAAAAKing.

[BIGKAT_83]

Belts that small are a problem to find in anything but a three rib. You need to make a tensioner. What I made was just a right and left hand thread set of hiem joints and a peace of tubing welded a nut on each end and then a jam nut worked great and looked good.
I've been looking for it and as soon as I find it I'll send it your way.


Hows it sound??

[Chris H.]

Thanks Bob that would be awesome! I think I might have found a 4 rib but that still might not fix the problem. I don't want it too tight or it will mess up the bearing.

It sounds REALLY good now that I took that dang belt off! REAALLLLLY good. Very 911ish but with less whoooshing because there isn't a cooling fan. At idle it's almost silent. I'll try to get a video together....

[BIGKAT_83]

Thanks Bob that would be awesome! I think I might have found a 4 rib but that still might not fix the problem. I don't want it too tight or it will mess up the bearing.

It sounds REALLY good! REAALLLLLY good. Very 911ish but with less whoooshing because there isnt a fan. At idle it's almost silent. I'll try to get a video together....

A three rib belt is fine. The only load on it is the alternater. unless your using the ac compressor now..

[Chris H.]

Nope just running the alternator. The AC runs on a different belt luckily and can be tensioned. I won't get to that til next year.

[76-914]

Wow! Way to go Chris. Your making great time. I'm hoping Mine is ready to start in 3-4 month's. Once that first cut in the trunk happens the others will be easy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I finally made headway with my exhaust though it will be awhile before I post on that. I've been dicking around with the wiring and discovered that blk doesn't always mean ground and some of the wires I cut need to be spliced back in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I bought the factory manual and it is awesome, So awesome that I was able to determine that I had screwed up quite a few wires. Thanks for the motivation. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[scotty b]

I was hoping you would be the one that could make an engine lid radiator work. It's a good idea in theory but a PITA in practice. You could try Boxster dual front fender radiators. I might go this route some day. I miss having a front trunk. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Mike, Chris, I think your on to something good. Thanks for the good words on my duct but that is so 2011. You can one up me and use the Boxster dual front fender radiators in the rear fenders. Inter through rear flares and exhaust through the engine bay (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Have any of you actually looked into this as far as to get the boxter rads and see if they fit ? This was something I had also thought about doing, with Ruby's shroud as my fail safe plan. I tried a 911 fender mounted oil cooler and it is a bit big for the front wheel wells ( in front of the tires at least. ) I haven't tried it in the rear wells yet.

[Mike Bellis]

Have any of you actually looked into this as far as to get the boxter rads and see if they fit ? This was something I had also thought about doing, with Ruby's shroud as my fail safe plan. I tried a 911 fender mounted oil cooler and it is a bit big for the front wheel wells ( in front of the tires at least. ) I haven't tried it in the rear wells yet.

I was at Parts Heaven a couple weeks ago looking at a Boxster that was half stripped. I think it could be done with a Sheridan fender or a similar removable fender. The Boxster rad sits at a 45° angle with the leading edge closest to the center of the car. There is a built in shroud with it. I think it would be possible to use the fog light grills as intakes. The headlight bucket would need some re-working for air flow. With my headlight setup, this area is all wasted space. With a factory setup, maybe a little more work. The Boxster has way more room in the fender well than a 914. So you would have to utilize the space under the headlight bucket for sure, possibly even cut out the bottom of the bucket and have the radiator shroud as the new bottom. I'm just not sure if the flip down headlamp system would fit back in the hole.

My next water cooled project will go this way for sure. Maybe with a water cooled 3.6L flat 6... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.skylersrants.com-10496-1379037400.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pelicanparts.com-10496-1379037467.1.jpg)

[scotty b]

The front mounted cooler is another thought I had. 2 of those, one in each rear wheel well, behind the wheel. I think airflow in would be o.k., but it would need some sort of exit. Fan setup could be tricky too due to the long thin shape of the front cooler (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Chris H.]

The Cherokee rad would be great if you could get some space between the front spoiler/valance and the body. It's 36x12, 2 pass. Could work with the Sheridan kit or the IMSA front spoiler thing...

[rhodyguy]

noticed the tank sock is sucked flat. did you replace it?

[Chris H.]

I did Kevin, thanks.

[a914622]

SWEET!! I go hunting for a couple of weeks and you get it running.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



jcl

[Chris H.]

Yeah man! Your clarification of the wiring was very helpful...the first time you turn that key it's pretty scary. For anyone who is going to do this soon be advised that the ground wire for the sensors (o2 sensor, etc) is black with white stripe, as is the ignition wire (which is really dumb). Be VERY SURE you connect the right one. Luckily I only twisted the key for a second...the wire got hot, I swapped them, all good.

Hey one question Jeff...so the black with yellow stripe wire that comes from the ECU...the "cheat sheets" identified this as the starter crank wire. When I plugged that into the starter nothing happened when I cranked it. Could only get the starter to spin when I ran a wire directly from the yellow starter wire at the 14 pin 914 harness (that used to connect to the relay board) to the starter. Works great like that, but should I also connect the starter crank wire from the ECU to the starter or leave it as is? Let me know if that makes sense.

[904svo]

Yeah man! Your clarification of the wiring was very helpful...the first time you turn that key it's pretty scary. For anyone who is going to do this soon be advised that the ground wire for the sensors (o2 sensor, etc) is black with white stripe, as is the ignition wire (which is really dumb). Be VERY SURE you connect the right one. Luckily I only twisted the key for a second...the wire got hot, I swapped them, all good.

Hey one question Jeff...so the black with yellow stripe wire that comes from the ECU...the "cheat sheets" identified this as the starter crank wire. When I plugged that into the starter nothing happened when I cranked it. Could only get the starter to spin when I ran a wire directly from the yellow starter wire at the 14 pin 914 harness (that used to connect to the relay board) to the starter. Works great like that, but should I also connect the starter crank wire from the ECU to the starter or leave it as is? Let me know if that makes sense.

Thats the singal wire to the ECU to turn off the fans,ac and other devices that are
drawing power so the starter has full batery voltage.

[Chris H.]

Ah thank you sir! Makes sense.

[a914622]

yep as stated above. that wire tells the ecu the engine is starting.


jcl

[ThePaintedMan]

Hey Chris,
I never could get a very good view of the engine cradle you used in this setup. Any chance you could post more of them?

This is WAY off, but one day I'd like to do the SVX swap as well. The limitation is that I'd have to keep the stock 901 transaxle, which, in theory would really simplify the swap in some ways, but also make it more complex in others (need a VSS sensor, engine adapter, gauges, high torque starter, etc). Is there any way that a cradle that bolted to the stock /4 locations would work without running all the way back to the transmission mounts, since this engine is a bit heavier than the 2.2?

Do I read this right: its essentially the same case as the 2.2, so you'd just use a Kennedy 2.2 transaxle adapter?

[76-914]

George, that is Ian's cradle of Coldwater conversions. He is a member vendor and has a beautiful cradle. They're about $600 and worth every penny, I'm sure. You asked "Is there any way that a cradle that bolted to the stock /4 locations would work without running all the way back to the transmission mounts, since this engine is a bit heavier than the 2.2?" The Suby engine mounts are located at the rear of the engine as compared to the front on a type 4. So much so that it is almost the datum point once the engine and trans are bolted together. That being said, the mount you want would need to be a distorted "C" shape. Don't know how that would hold up w/o some bracing from the body to mount as it would become a "lever" if left in that configuration.