My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[914forme]

Who's 914 is the blue car in the pictures above? That is an insanely clean install, I would like to check it out.

[rnellums]

I bought entire front axles used off of NASIOC and harvested the inner CVs. I heard not to go with new aftermarket or remanufactured. They aren't as good. Used OEM are fine and don't fail very often. Looks like the prices have gone up a bit...I paid ~ $50 for my set. You want to look for "female" CV's, the OEM are usually painted green.

So the general consensus is that the CVs on rock auto are garbage?

[Chris H.]

Well, all I know is a lot of the guys on NASIOC say so. I think Bob (BIGKAT_83) told me the OEM used ones were the best bet as well. And Chris (my928S4) ordered a set of EMPIs and the spline count was wrong so they didn't fit. That SHOULD NOT happen since you order each set specific to the year of the trans and I'm sure he knew what year his trans was.

Stephen, the blue car is known as "Papa Smurf". It's owned by member naro914. You'll enjoy learning the details. It's a nasty little beast with quite a racing history.

HANG ON!!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VmxplmLGKs

[Chris H.]

OK so back to the coolant lines thing. If I run them through the longs and then keep them low and run them like oil cooler lines...what about heat in the interior? Should we be worried about that? Seems like 180 degrees or so would make it pretty warm where the hoses come out of the longs...mine would be right by my feet without a lot of room to put insulation. Could probably encase it in a tube of some kind....guess I better look at it closer.

My flapper boxes were stuck JUST SLIGHTLY open for two summers and that was pretty irritating.

[76-914]

Hey Chris, I'm having withdrawals. Got any updates? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[Chris H.]

Hey Kent,

Wish I had more visual updates but I'm mostly collecting parts right now. Got all my hose and stuff. Right now I'm waiting for Jags That Run to call me back so they can send the last few bits for my cooling system setup. Spent way too much time over-thinking my coolant filler neck because the SVX high-point is at a weird angle just a few inches from the firewall.



Finally came up with something I think will work...



This is a Yamaha snowmobile/large motorcycle filler. Very durable (seems like an aluminum alloy of some kind...) and the filler neck extends quite a bit above the coolant hose "hole" which is needed since the engine line is larger and we're connecting it there. The sender on there can be removed and capped. The cap is loose BTW... The 7/8 hose fits great, although I think the original hose was 1" nope it measures 7/8". The lower hose exits the bottom and should easily make the turn without an elbow and run under the car.

I also bought this Honda 1000rr filler which has the same size hose outlets. Might try it as well but I like the Yamaha so far.



Next I'll steal phoenix-hobbies' idea and weld nuts to the underside of the floor pan to mount the coolant lines so I don't have to drill holes in the floor. The lines barely protrude below the grooves in the floor pan.

But first I need to install the clutch master...that little 90 degree elbow should be on my porch by now.

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Cool! Great find. If you don't use that Honda neck I'll buy it from you. Are those jam nuts that you will be welding to the pan? I can't imagine a regular nut working well. You'd only catch 3 to 4 threads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Chris H.]

I haven't picked the nuts yet...(that sounded weird (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) but I'll let you know .

I'm glad you asked about the Honda filler because I was gonna offer it to you in the last post but didn't want you to think I didn't like your current setup (which I do like). It's just that it's copper so at some point you'll probably want to change it. This will work great whenever you decide to swap it out. The 7/8 return line goes in the upper hole which is your high point, then you can run another 7/8 hose from the lower outlet down to a tee where those larger hoses intersect, done deal. It has an attachment loop so you don't have to worry about it slumping over. I got it for $6.95 SHIPPED so I won't sell it to you but I'll be happy to give it to you when I'm done. I only bought it because the hose sizes looked bigger than they are in the e-bay pic. I think they are actually 7/8" now that I put a ruler to them. The angle of the lower inlet even kinda follows the contour of the firewall if you have the room (and I don't).

BTW the Yamaha filler is from a mid-90's VMAX snowmobile for anyone interested. Like $20 on e-bay. There are many models, 500, 600, etc.

[76-914]

LMK, I'll paypal ya whenever. Re: welding nuts to the pan. You know what I'm getting at, right? The screw will stop as soon as it hits the pan. Why not drill your holes, insert a bolt and weld it in place giving you studs beneath?? Or did I miss something completely? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

[Chris H.]

I just don't want to cut a bunch of small holes in the floor. Our weather isn't as good around here so I don't want ANY water in the cabin. If you weld the nut to the pan underneath you can screw the bolts in and not cut any holes. Just have to weld the side not through the middle and use short bolts. I'll look for a deeper than normal nut. As long as I use enough straps it'll hold fine.

You're not Pay Pal'ing me pal. I'll just send it to you when I'm done. If I need six dollars someday I'll know who to call.

[76-914]

Thanks Chris.

[76-914]

I think this is the an 90

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1120/overview/

[Chris H.]

That's it! Just got it today. I searched the straight one I bought originally and it was easy to find with your pic. No excuses now I guess. Better get at it.

[76-914]

***NOTICE*** This thread needs action or risk exposure in the "Slacker's Thread"! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[Chris H.]

Duly noted sir. I'll get some updates in here pretty soon.

[ruby914]

Duly noted sir. I'll get some updates in here pretty soon.

As soon as he gets his car started, he call you out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

It's the adrenaline (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . I do need to update this thread though. Pretty much just posting on Kent's the last couple of months!

BTW what gauge aluminum/sheet metal is best for radiator shrouding and where do you get it? I went to Home Depot and the stuff they stock is too thin. I see special order thicknesses but not sure which is the best mix of firm yet flexible. I assume aluminum is what everyone uses?

[76-914]

I used some sheet metal I had laying around. You'll get some mild oxidation with the aluminum where it comes in contact with the body steel. I'd go steel. For your aluminum needs; aircraftspruce.com We will be looking for lots of pic's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) And yes Mike, Chris will be chiding me next but that's how it works in this suby group. We're a Mutual Prodding Society. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Chris H.]

Yeah I'm saving mine up... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

So...sheet steel..what gauge?? Can I get it at a home improvement place?

[76-914]

20 0r 22ga? I'll check it this evening. Yes, you can get it at the depot or lowe's. TIP: Bobco metals in LA will cut and ship just about any piece of metal. Go get 'em Hot Rod.