My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[914forme]

Here is a pretty cool custom intake for the EZ30:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...9743&page=7

Nice tip on that thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Now I have another thread to keep up with, that guy's got some serious talent.

[76-914]

Hey Chris, the snow is melting; time to dust off this build thread and get 'er going again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[Chris H.]

Darn right brother! Thank you again for the stickers.

Planning to at least get the new fan setup and fan controller installed this weekend. I'm also going to move my shifter slightly back and copy Roachghia's setup. Raises it up a bit so I don't have to extend it. The short shift throw is nice if you can make it work.

How's everyone else doing out there in Subie land? Anything cool to report?

[mgp4591]

Darn right brother! Thank you again for the stickers.

Planning to at least get the new fan setup and fan controller installed this weekend. I'm also going to move my shifter slightly back and copy Roachghia's setup. Raises it up a bit so I don't have to extend it. The short shift throw is nice if you can make it work.

How's everyone else doing out there in Subie land? Anything cool to report?

Got my trailing arm bushings from Eric installed, picked up the front bushings and new rear Bilsteins.... that's gotta count for something! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[veekry9]

Intake Manifold build for EG3.3

http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/175-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/174-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/173-1.html
A composite Subaru intake manifold for a custom that worked,a thing of beauty.
Requires some fab skill in the medium,he used a hi-temp epoxy/s-glass layup on a foam core.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=subaru+perfo...RBqCtgQ_AUIBigB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rS7in5COiw
another material.

[76-914]

Intake Manifold build for EG3.3

http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/175-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/174-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/173-1.html

A composite Subaru intake manifold for a custom that worked,a thing of beauty.
Requires some fab skill in the medium,he used a hi-temp epoxy/s-glass layup on a foam core.

http://www.ch601.org/resources/subaru_faq.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rS7in5COiw
another material.

Uh, that's a 2.2, not a 3.3. I spent 20 yr's in the Homebuilt Aircraft Industry and never saw an auto conversion that merits the work required. An exercise in WTF! An adequate analogy would be, "Would you put an A/C engine in a car and why?"

[Chris H.]

Changed my fans out today...you can buy the Celica GTS radiator on e-bay with or without the 12" fans. Trust me, they are worth the extra $86.

I started with a set of 10" fans because I had them, made a shroud out of metal that I had...just wasn't pulling enough.



Then I tried adapting the SVX fans, which seem very sturdy and fit perfectly onto the radiator. The problem there was that the air flowed down and to the sides rather than straight through the fans.



Here are the correct, 12" slim fans (they come in black too)



Here they are running. Great flow. So much better than the 10". Note the carpet flapping in the breeze.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzsG92HWl0g


BTW don't worry about the rattling sound. The shroud was loose since the top was off and vibrating against something.

[Chris H.]

I also stopped using the SVX ECU fan controller to power my radiator fans. It never quite acted right. Don't know why but even though I had them wired together, when they both needed to be running in high speed mode, only one of them would run. Not good. Got tired of troubleshooting it for hours. Even Bob was a little baffled.

With Bob's recommendation I went to this:



No it's not invisible, but it's pretty small. Fits nicely on the bumper support:



It wires up so easily and can control two fans. It also has an AC wire that would switch the fans on regardless of temp. I wired that up to a switch and will be using it temporarily as an override to run the fans constantly if I want to while I'm getting the cooling system dialed in.



Easy instructions:



I need to get my Renegade valance installed and the front opening cut out a little larger so I can drive it around. The engine hasn't gotten warm enough so I can set what temp to kick the fans on at. It's not quite a perfect science since the sensor is in the radiator core, not in the coolant flow. I'll keep y'all posted on the performance.

[904svo]

I also stopped using the SVX ECU fan controller to power my radiator fans. It never quite acted right. Don't know why but even though I had them wired together, when they both needed to be running in high speed mode, only one of them would run. Not good. Got tired of troubleshooting it for hours. Even Bob was a little baffled.

With Bob's recommendation I went to this:



No it's not invisible, but it's pretty small. Fits nicely on the bumper support:



It wires up so easily and can control two fans. It also has an AC wire that would switch the fans on regardless of temp. I wired that up to a switch and will be using it temporarily as an override to run the fans constantly if I want to while I'm getting the cooling system dialed in.



Easy instructions:



I need to get my Renegade valance installed and the front opening cut out a little larger so I can drive it around. The engine hasn't gotten warm enough so I can set what temp to kick the fans on at. It's not quite a perfect science since the sensor is in the radiator core, not in the coolant flow. I'll keep y'all posted on the performance.

FWIW, Subaru uses the power steering oil pump switch to control the fan speed.

[Chris H.]

That's very strange. Probably part of the problem since I'm not running a power steering pump and had removed that circuit from the harness.

[76-914]

I also stopped using the SVX ECU fan controller to power my radiator fans. It never quite acted right. Don't know why but even though I had them wired together, when they both needed to be running in high speed mode, only one of them would run. Not good. Got tired of troubleshooting it for hours. Even Bob was a little baffled.

With Bob's recommendation I went to this:



No it's not invisible, but it's pretty small. Fits nicely on the bumper support:



It wires up so easily and can control two fans. It also has an AC wire that would switch the fans on regardless of temp. I wired that up to a switch and will be using it temporarily as an override to run the fans constantly if I want to while I'm getting the cooling system dialed in.



Easy instructions:



I need to get my Renegade valance installed and the front opening cut out a little larger so I can drive it around. The engine hasn't gotten warm enough so I can set what temp to kick the fans on at. It's not quite a perfect science since the sensor is in the radiator core, not in the coolant flow. I'll keep y'all posted on the performance.

FWIW, Subaru uses the power steering oil pump switch to control the fan speed.

And since none of us have pwr steering, you can take that lead to ground for a 50rpm boost in idle.Chris, your fans sound serious. Driving time is very near. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Chris H.]

Hey Kent! Yeah I already grounded the PS wire which you figured out last year for me. You just reminded me I need to reconnect it! In addition to the idle increase it also provides a constant "load" to the system which is important for the SVX ECU. I was very tempted to drive it around but it's better if I work through the issues first. The hole up front is too small so it won't cool enough. No reason to subject it to overheating. The shifter cables are also slightly melted, which I need to replace. I have new ones.

Next up:

- Get the valance fitted and cut the front trunk hole bigger. Probably also have to adjust the shroud angle on the sides since the hole will be a little wider.
- Need to get to Bob's to pick up my second trans and some other stuff. My trans has a whine which may or may not be fixable. Bob says no, so it's 99.9% no. Probably work for a while, but not indefinitely. Regardless, I want the trans he has at his place and to see his newest project. It will be warm enough to take pics this time!
- Fix minor oil leak at the oil pump. For you EG33 guys, the oil pump must be re-sealed using a bead of RTV...I had the whole damn engine apart and did the timing belt and water pump but didn't re-seal that SOB. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
- Swap out my cables, try a new shifter position/option
- Flip the intake if I can make it work.
- Install my louvered floor pan

Lots to do, but I also want to start enjoying it, so the priority is getting it driveable for long distances.

[76-914]

Much to do in one respect; very little in a other. I'll bet your done within 30 days. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[904svo]

Here the circuit I used.


This circuit can control other power circuits only when the engine is running.

[Chris H.]

Very interesting stuff! Any thoughts on how to solve the dreaded SVX stall issue that is (allegedly, according to the SVX guys) caused by the fact that all SVX's are automatics and the ECU expects a load of some kind at all times? I've had it happen. Engine idled perfectly in the SVX. Now it will sometimes stall when you put the clutch in, especially when coming from high rpms. Seems to happen after warmup. When cold it's fine. Even with the power steering pump wire grounded it wasn't 100% cured. I know smallcar had a chip you can install for ~$260, but it's not on their website any more.

[904svo]

Very interesting stuff! Any thoughts on how to solve the dreaded SVX stall issue that is (allegedly, according to the SVX guys) caused by the fact that all SVX's are automatics and the ECU expects a load of some kind at all times? I've had it happen. Engine idled perfectly in the SVX. Now it will sometimes stall when you put the clutch in, especially when coming from high rpms. Seems to happen after warmup. When cold it's fine. Even with the power steering pump wire grounded it wasn't 100% cured. I know smallcar had a chip you can install for ~$260, but it's not on their website any more.

Two things that I know of that cause the problem ,the brake switch and the clutch
switch must be hook up, and the ECU must have the AUTO lead to the ECU grounded

Most importation thing is the VSS must be wire to the ECU.

[Chris H.]

Thank you! The brake switch and clutch switch would be hooked up to...? The brake light circuit for the brake I assume? Clutch would be what? And both are powered +?

[904svo]

Thank you! The brake switch and clutch switch would be hooked up to...? The brake light circuit for the brake I assume? Clutch would be what? And both are powered +?

With out the wiring diagram I'm not sure where the clutch switch would be connected.
The brake switch would be wired normally, the VSS signal must goto the ECU.

If you are using a Auto ECU I would guess the clutch switch would be wired to
the TCM lead to the ECU.

The ECU must get all the signals from the TCM to operate propely, these signals
can come from another source (fake) to make the ECM think it coming from the
TCM

[Chris H.]

OK thanks. The VSS is definitely connected so that's good. I doubt the Auto wire is grounded. I'll start with that and see what happens. I'll dig up the wiring diagrams too. Thanks for the help! So just to confirm, I just need to connect the brake wire into the brake circuit somewhere?

Edit: BTW I still have the TCM...but would think that might complicate things to hook it back up...maybe not? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Chris H.]

Dug up one of the ECU pinouts I used (Found on an SVX site). The ECU does not have a clutch or brake switch wire, those are on the TCM. I do see a few wires that might be helpful in evening out the idle issue

- Pin 16 in the top plug labeled B59 is called "atmospheric pressure sensor / A/T control unit" No voltage required, I may ground it and see what happens.
- Pin 20 in the top plug..."torque control signal"...how about that one? requires 5 volts to "trick" it.
- Pin 11 on B60 - speed sensor 2 - should I connect this to the VSS on my trans? I don't have it connected currently. Thought I did.