My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[904svo]

Dug up one of the ECU pinouts I used (Found on an SVX site). The ECU does not have a clutch or brake switch wire, those are on the TCM. I do see a few wires that might be helpful in evening out the idle issue

- Pin 16 in the top plug labeled B59 is called "atmospheric pressure sensor / A/T control unit" No voltage required, I may ground it and see what happens.
- Pin 20 in the top plug..."torque control signal"...how about that one? requires 5 volts to "trick" it.
- Pin 11 on B60 - speed sensor 2 - should I connect this to the VSS on my trans? I don't have it connected currently. Thought I did.

From what I read on SVX sites the VSS has to be connected up.
The brake an clutch switchs are used to control cruise control.

[Chris H.]

Few updates you might be interested in.

First is the trans whine "issue", which was not an issue at all, just a misunderstanding in the directions when installing the locking spool. The instructions were to remove the thinner of the two washers from the original assembly when installing it. That is ONLY IF you have two small diameter washers at the END of the assembly. There is a larger diameter washer that goes in BEFORE the spool. DO NOT REMOVE THAT ONE!!! It will seem like the right thing to do, but it's not. You won't be able to get the nut tight enough and gears 3-5 will be slightly mis-aligned and whine. I only drove it about 10 miles that way, so no harm done. Apparently there are Subie guys who tolerate this kind of whine for thousands of miles. Once I reinstalled the washer it was totally quiet. The trans only has 64k on it, and there were no signs of wear at all.

More info here:

Guy whining about trans whine

Once I fixed the trans, the drive train immediately started eating 914 CV joints. The Subaru end also slipped out once. Turned out to be worn out CVs.

See more on that here:

New CV setup

Like a lot of the Subaru converts I used the MR2 shifter. I positioned it close to the stock setup, but the shift lever is a little too short. Didn't want to extend it too much since the short throw is nice. After trying several shift knobs and I heard that the stock MR2 knob is one of the best to use. Unfortunately when you screw that one on the shaft is WAY too short. Ordered this stainless steel extender:

MR2 Shifter Extension

Just need an MR2 shift knob. Got mine from MR2Parts4U on e-bay. There are a couple of nice ones on there from other sellers too.

MR2knob

Here's how it looks before assembly...WAY too long right?



No!



Here it is installed:





You grab the shift knob sideways instead of on top so the throw wasn't extended much.

Couple of things I learned:

- Avoid aluminum extensions. They will eventually break.
- If you buy one with a hex nut on it, make sure it's removable like this one is.

Need to work on the interior soon! Probably grab an MR2 boot and build a cover around it for the shifter and center area.

The other thing I did was properly connect the alternator directly to the battery. It's a common SVX upgrade, so I followed the process on the Subaru-SVX site.

Used 4 gauge wire and installed a 100 amp slow blow fuse just in case...







Here it is installed...bolts to the old FI box holes...



The SVX battery also has 2 ground points, one chassis ground and one engine ground. I re did those with 4 gauge wire too. Here you can see the upper wire from the alternator to the battery, and the lower engine ground wire.



It's running well, staying at or below 185 degrees now. Next up is to connect the VSS, flip the intake, and make it look prettier.

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) 6 mo's between updates? Are you sneaking into the "Build off" threads? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) I need to connect my VSS to the ECU as well. Scares the shit out of me every time the ECU looks for that signal. For those of you that are converting to Suby and using the OEM ECU; if you don't connect that circuit the car will cut off for 2-3 seconds after driving at a constant speed for extended periods of time. As long as your throttle position changes e.g. town driving, it never occurs.
Good to see you posting again! Did you decide what to do for the floating 1/2 shafts and CV's. Was "the floating" shaft the culprit? Kent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ThePaintedMan]

Very nice Chris! Hate to add some doubt, but I'm in the process of flipping the intake on my engine stand. Unfortunately, there is a possibility some of those new wires may not work, depending on where you put the alternator when you flip it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I'll get around to posting pictures of how I flipped it soon. There is a lot more work than it initially looks like.

[Chris H.]

Hey guys!

Yeah Kent I realized I had stopped posting stuff in my build thread. Not good for anyone building an EG33. Although the floating axles do offer a LOT of "float"..like...enough to fit two 914 CV's on the Porsche end of the shaft, I actually think the root of the problem was combining the floating axle with a very weak CV joint on the 914 end. If the 914 CV is floppy the floating axle will move A LOT. Not only can the cage get moved into a precarious position and break, but the Subaru end, which is very strong but not secured at the end, can slip out, causing the bearings to come off of the "tulip" (you know what I mean). I think it happened to Ross once. Ended up adding 944 CVs with the adapter from Bob which added about 1.5 inches or so to the end length, so the axle is fully compressed into the Subaru end. Even had to let the trailing arm down to reinstall it. Works great!

George, thanks for the feedback. Always like to hear it "straight". Post pics when you can! I purposely left the wire long just in case. WAY long (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . My plan is to POSSIBLY move my alternator into the spot where the AC compressor was. That puts the positive terminal upside down I think, which might be a bad idea... My battery is on the opposite side from normal, which might have to change if I go back to the stock intake setup (which is recommended BTW). Or maybe I put the stock airbox there and do a small battery on the other side. I also saw there is a guy who makes phenolic spacers for the SVX that might help with clearance. Gonna check into that. Hope your new little one is well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .

[Chris H.]

Another small thing...when we buy these 5MT transmissions they may or may not come with the clutch/flywheel area cover plate. Mine didn't and I hated the huge gap and exposed flywheel. Always assumed there was a cover of some kind but my only experience with a Subaru engine was an automatic.

Finally took a few minutes to find this:



Part number is 30216, followed by sub numbers for different years. Mine for the 2006 was 30216AA0020. E-bay, $17.XX

[DBCooper]

So are you driving it regularly now? Do you have more detailed impressions? Fun to drive? Worth all the work? Anything you'd do differently?

[A&P Mech]

How funny, I was just looking for one as well. I will check eBay.

[76-914]

Me too! Thx a bunch, Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) That was bugging the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of me and I thought I would have to make something. That will keep the road debris out of the TO bearing.

[Chris H.]

So are you driving it regularly now? Do you have more detailed impressions? Fun to drive? Worth all the work? Anything you'd do differently?

I'm driving it...have about 350 miles on it for the year which is A LOT since I did 2000 in the previous 12 years, most of which was done in the first 5. The VSS is not hooked up. Not going another mile until I do that. I think it's hindering the performance a bit as I posted on Kent's thread. I definitely have some feedback on your questions above. Let me but a list together.

[Chris H.]

Me too! Thx a bunch, Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) That was bugging the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of me and I thought I would have to make something. That will keep the road debris out of the TO bearing.

Sure guys. I'll install it in the next day or two and confirm that it bolts up OK...can't imagine why it wouldn't... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) It's been 4 mo's since your last post. You don't write, you don't call. Do I need to dig up my "Slackers" thread again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Any hang ups or just the weather? Hope everything on the home front is good. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) Relentless, huh? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

Yeah lot going on at work but thanks for checking in Kent. Supposed to be a nice weekend. Maybe I'll twist some wrenches. I just got a big package from Bruce Stone. Pretty front suspension bits. I should at least open the box tomorrow!

[76-914]

Don't stay away from it too long, Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Justinp71]

Yeah, give us your driving impressions! This might have to be the new 914-6 since porsche motors are becoming unobtainium these days!

[76-914]

C'mon Chris. We're dying for some Subie chat. 2yr's ago there were 4 of us posting conversion stuff everyday. I miss those days. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Working on your conversion awhile and that evening reading about what others had done that day. I'm going to be doing some "major changes" with my cooling system. I anticipate my current system will not handle AC sitting in traffic and 100F. Worst that could happen is overkill. I'm leaning on waiting until after RT66 so I don't feel rushed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Kent

[Chris H.]

Yeah those were fun days. Where is Doug?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpLQ0wtQ0R0


Let's get back on track! I'm in a slight funk. Just need to put it up in the air and get started. Phase 1 was really "can I actually DO THIS?" Now I need to route the wiring right, make it look nice overall, secure the radiator better, etc.

You ever decide whether you want to swap out your radiator hoses ? 1.25 gates #28445 is the way to go I think. We can split 50 feet for about $100 each. Not quite ready for that but keep it in mind. You might want to do it before the RT66 deal. Remember you whipped that engine like a mule and it got hot last time? Why do you think you're AC system won't work well when it's hot? It's a pretty small area to cool.

[76-914]

Yeah those were fun days. Where is Doug?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpLQ0wtQ0R0


Let's get back on track! I'm in a slight funk. Just need to put it up in the air and get started. Phase 1 was really "can I actually DO THIS?" Now I need to route the wiring right, make it look nice overall, secure the radiator better, etc.

You ever decide whether you want to swap out your radiator hoses ? 1.25 gates #28445 is the way to go I think. We can split 50 feet for about $100 each. Not quite ready for that but keep it in mind. You might want to do it before the RT66 deal. Remember you whipped that engine like a mule and it got hot last time? Why do you think you're AC system won't work well when it's hot? It's a pretty small area to cool.

I'm fine with cooling the engine as long as I keep the rpm reasonable. IOW, not in 2nd when I should be in 4th. And I'm pretty sure that is due in part to the hose size causing the pump to cavitate at high RPM. It's whether it will cool the engine with the AC on in extreme conditions. The frigging AC is big enough for a Fairlane. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I have a dual core sitting in the garage that will handle the added load of the AC. I'll see if the higher RPM still brings the temp up with the new radiator. If it does then we split a roll.
So how many days to tidy up your wiring?

[Chris H.]

Next step is to pull the engine. Wish I didn't have to but I have a few things to do to it and it's much easier with it out. Will try to get that done this weekend. Really want to drive the car more this year.

I see what you're saying about the AC...you're worried about keeping the engine cool not the car's interior. I'm pretty set on going to wider hoses just to be sure it never gets hot on one of those long drives with the hammer down. What radiator did you pick up?