Questions for a 3.0, #1 is adapting to a 901, What can I keep, what do I need? what else? Options

[Mark Henry]

Still debating to build a 2.0 or 2.4 or 2.7 or say fuch it sell it all and get a 3.0 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
To me the bottom line $$$ looks almost the same.

For a 3.0:
What would I need to keep for the clutch and PP (9bolt fly) that works on a 901?
What would I need to buy from KEP?

Should I be grabbing anything else from the donor engine ?

I'm looking a a few engines,
#1 a 3.2 that's a bit beyond my budget,
#2 an unknown 3.0 longblock core, spins fine, I suspect a broke headstud(s)
#3 a good used stock 3.0 euro sc with CIS,
#4 a hot rod 3.0 with webers newer top end w/JE's

I'm reading all the pro's and cons, yes JP.... Santa did bring me Wayne's book (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
What would be your order on my engine choice list above?

Cheers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[sww914]

KEP has a starter ring gear and hardware that you need to use the 3.0 flywheel. I can't remember which pressure plate it uses, the 901 one or the 915 one but the 915 plate actuates opposite the 901 plate. Pull vs push.
The hodrod 3.0 would be the most fun but probably the most trouble too, kind of like a girlfriend with tattoos.

[pete-stevers]

I would/did go for an early 3.0 with cis, it has TONS of power and torque
fitting the cis without cutting the trunk wall took dropping the drive train mounts one inch, and a modified shift bar, but i am happy with it
but i am saving my pennies to convert it to a 3.4/cis one day
But the aluminum block is an easy choice.
buy the 3.0 euro run it for a while
I think the only issue i had with mating it was solved with a phone call to KEP and ordering a few parts

[jt914-6]

When I first used my 3.0 I had my 901 modified to use the 225mm pressure plate and disc. It involved relocating the throw out bearing pivot bolt location. I used a 911 clutch cable, TO bearing arm, TO bearing, 225mm PP and puck disc. I broke a couple of pivot bolts and had the bearing come off the arm. On my car now I ordered a kit from Patrick Motorsports to use the 3.0 flywheel, 901 TO bearing/arm, PP and puck disc. The kit came with a ring gear, PP, puck disc, and TO bearing. I'm now using a regular 901 tranny with no mods like the other tranny had. Use the KEP or PM kit and you'll have no problem with a 3.0 or larger engine with a 901.

[J P Stein]

Still debating to build a 2.0 or 2.4 or 2.7 or say fuch it sell it all and get a 3.0 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
To me the bottom line $$$ looks almost the same.

For a 3.0:
What would I need to keep for the clutch and PP (9bolt fly) that works on a 901?
What would I need to buy from KEP?

Should I be grabbing anything else from the donor engine ?

I'm looking a a few engines,
#1 a 3.2 that's a bit beyond my budget,
#2 an unknown 3.0 longblock core, spins fine, I suspect a broke headstud(s)
#3 a good used stock 3.0 euro sc with CIS,
#4 a hot rod 3.0 with webers newer top end w/JE's


I'm reading all the pro's and cons, yes JP.... Santa did bring me Wayne's book (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
What would be your order on my engine choice list above?

Cheers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

The 3.0L is the bestest Porsche air cooled motor.
#4
#3 actually, this is a toss up assuming they are good motors. 4 for beans, 3 for
crusin'.....tho a fresh top end sounds good to me. Pickem'

KEP will sell you a 9 bolt flywheel that allows you to use all the stock linkage & stock style clutch package.
I was very happy with their Stage I PP and a 6 spring disc.

Enjoy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Mark Henry]

Number 3 and 4 are the ones that I'm debating over (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[rfuerst911sc]

My 2 cents ( it's all I have left after this GT conversion (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) I am using a 1978 911 SC 3.0 ( big port ) with 40mm Weber carbs on my conversion. I am using a 901 transmission and the stock 3.0 915 flywheel. I contacted Kennedy and told them what I was doing and they suggested their ring gear,stage II pressure plate,clutch disc and throw out bearing. I ordered what they suggested and my mechanic installed everything and it all fit like a glove. My car should be running this week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) so I'll know how well it all works but my mechanic stated it was all high quality stuff and " dry runs " using the clutch it all seems to work smoothly. I personally think the 3.0 is one of the best Porsche engines ever built and they can be had for decent price. I bought mine 2 years ago for $3000.00 but it did not include induction system but I wasn't going to use CIS anyway. The 78-79 years have larger intake valves than the 80-83. The 78-79 will make a little more hp but the 80-83 tend to make better torque. I have a 83SC with 46mm PMO carbs and she runs just fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Good luck with whatever you choose.

[SirAndy]

KEP Stage II, Starter Ringgear, Pressure Plate, 6-Spring Clutch and Throwout Bearing.

Bolted right up to my stock (lightened) 3.6L flywheel on one end and my stock 901 on the other end.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) Andy

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1185423229.jpg)

[J P Stein]

I'll accept that the Stage II set-up works fine. At the time, I didn't know how much force it took to disengage the Stage I clutch.....with the known deficiencies of the 914 clutch linkage. All this was done in my pre-internet days when information was scarce. It has held the power fine for 11 years. I took it out when rebuilding the motor a couple winters back......looked it & the flywheel over and slapped it back in.

Take a good look at your linkage, tube & all before committing.

[Mark Henry]

What is the $damage on that set up?

[SirAndy]

What is the $damage on that set up?

I don't remember. It's been a while ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[rfuerst911sc]

What is the $damage on that set up?

Here's what I payed for my setup:

Ring gear adapter ring $151.00 from a forum user.
Stage II 9 " heavy duty pressure plate $225.00
228mm clutch disc $85.00
T.O. bearing $91.00

These prices were on March of 2008.

[jt914-6]

Here's a copy of my invoice from Patrick Motorsports dated 4/14/08. Kit for 3.0 flywheel and 901 tranny. Works great even with the puck disc with street use....

[rfuerst911sc]

Here's a copy of my invoice from Patrick Motorsports dated 4/14/08. Kit for 3.0 flywheel and 901 tranny. Works great even with the puck disc with street use....

WOW I'm glad I bought from Kennedy ! The Patrick setup is pricey.

[IronHillRestorations]

Get #3 or #4 with a gaurantee, and the package from Kennedy.

If you know anything about #4, the Webers are good and it's driveable, that's what I'd opt for. CIS isn't bad, but you can add significant power with the right package of pistons and cams for a 3.0 that'll require carbs.

Reinforce your clutch tube or put together a hydraulic, and make sure your pedal cluster is rebuilt, there's more stress on that with a heavier pressure plate.

[Dr Evil]

Did you factor in that anything over 2.7 will need external cooling (more $$$).?

[Mark Henry]

Here's my thinking on a 3.0 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
I have a 2.0 and a 2.7 both will need case work, both need pistons and cylinders.
I have a lot of the fix'ins for a nice 2.0 69S hot rod engine, I have the cylinders but JE pistons and mods will be at least another $2K to finish. 170-180hp is nice but it would be a 5-7k rpm screamer.
The 2.7 (or a 2.4) would cost about $4K to finish and I'd have find some use nicasils for JE's

OR I can sell everything I have for a nice little profit (even in todays economy), at minumum get my coin back. Add a bit of coin and I'm into a runner saving me a huge chunk of time on the conversion.

Get #3 or #4 with a guarantee, and the package from Kennedy.

If you know anything about #4, the Webers are good and it's driveable, that's what I'd opt for. CIS isn't bad, but you can add significant power with the right package of pistons and cams for a 3.0 that'll require carbs.

I doubt they will guarantee, but both are upstanding bird members.
The hotrod 3.0 is fresh top end JE's and cams with dyno papers but would be a major stretch on my budget.

The used CIS is a strong runner, the engine is in the sideswiped 911 and is going into an independent 911 shop for a leak down test at the owners insistence. This one I can have at a fair price and should have enough coin left over for the other needed bits. Plus I should still have my webers for a future upgrade.

Did you factor in that anything over 2.7 will need external cooling (more $$$).?

I know a few guys running a 3.0 without an extra cooler, but I do have an RX-7 cooler so it would cost some welding and the lines.
The bigger issue to me is cutting into my rust free (I know there has to be some) mint front end for the cooler.

[IronHillRestorations]

You can put a 24 row Mocal oil cooler in the right rear quarter panel, basically in the same location as the oil tank, but on the passenger side. Unless you are doing a lot of track events, it will work fine there, just make a stone shield.

[Dr Evil]

For a CIS engine you can get away with no cooling (from what I have read). This is why I went 2.7 with CIS (and because the whole thing was free only needing a complete rebuild).

Get the 3.0 CIS, but realize that you will need different pistons if you wish to add carbs and gain hp. It would still be a good start (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mark Henry]

For a CIS engine you can get away with no cooling (from what I have read). This is why I went 2.7 with CIS (and because the whole thing was free only needing a complete rebuild).

Get the 3.0 CIS, but realize that you will need different pistons if you wish to add carbs and gain hp. It would still be a good start (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This is most of my logic, just get a good runner going and then maybe one day hop it up a bit. The engine is a euro spec 83 SC (9.3:1cr) so it's just a hair under 200hp new. At the clinic Walter had no extra cooler in his. I'd do the 2.7 but it needs pistons and cylinders and a lot of machine work, plus I like the idea of a aluminum case over mag.
All of this still depends on the leak down test.

The other lead I have is an engine that needs a rebuild (or top end), might be able to build my own hot rod engine for a bit less, BUT would it be done on time for May?

I would like to be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) next season.