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> V8 and liquid cooled guys..., Want to install a heater??? Here's mine
Mike Bellis
post Mar 23 2010, 10:32 PM
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It gets cold here in Northern California often in the moorning. So I decided to build a liquid heater. First, I spent some time measuring the inside of the fresh air box. I figured I could fit a core 11x6 maximum. my son and I spent several hours at the local Pick and Pull junk yard. I settled on a Transmission cooler from a late model Ford Truck. Cooler measures 10x6.

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I quick placement and I realize I need to cut! The water dam for the fan must be cut down. Make sure not to cut all of it so that it will still keep some water off the motor.

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The finish cut to the dam. Ready for the lid? Not yet.

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Mike Bellis
post Mar 23 2010, 10:38 PM
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So now the core fits on the fan base.

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The top must be shaved down too. Leave as much as possible for the rain cover. I don't park or drive in the rain but weather happens.

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Now the core fits into the air box. Need to test fit in the car and seal the box.

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Mike Bellis
post Mar 23 2010, 10:42 PM
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In the car! Just need to plumb hoses to the rear. I picked up a Volkswagen rabbt heater valve to control the water. I will use the red handle to open it. The diverter valve will not be needed fo the stock heater, so I will juggle the heater cables around to suit.

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I added a petcock to vent out air.

now to finish and try it...
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ldscamaross
post Mar 23 2010, 11:55 PM
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i was recently looking at doing something very similar to that. i was going to look for a heater core instead of a tranny cooler but very simialar idea. looks good.
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computers4kids
post Mar 24 2010, 08:06 AM
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Mike,
Thanks for sharing. Since I'm a DYI kind of guy, I'll make one too....thanks for the leg work. I''ll be especially interested how you tap into the water system and how that effects air in the system. I would think since it will be the highest point of the car, it might be a nice way (with the heater valve on) to bleed the system.

PS Renegade and Marks914 both make these units similar to yours.
Way to go,
Mark
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Bruce Hinds
post Mar 24 2010, 09:52 AM
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I did the same thing a few years back while we lived in Colorado. It works great. I used a Ford heater core though and the water lines exit on the passenger side of the box. I don't know if those small fittings will give you the flow you need.
It does create another high spot in the system so a bleeder is required. I used a "T" in the hoses to and from the radiator.
The Ford core I used has the same size inlet and outlet, theory says that one should be greater than the other to give better draw, but this worked fine.
MoPar makes an inline control valve, I had one on a Dodge truck which is where I got the idea. I hooked the Red lever on the dash to the Dodge valve.
The Ford core is much thicker, so I had to make a new top for the fresh air box. If anyone's interested I can go out and snap a picture.
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burton73
post Mar 24 2010, 02:12 PM
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Mike,

I had to replace my vent box in my V8 car as the drain holes fittings where broken. George at AA told me that some of the V8 guys where putting the heater cores in the air vent boxes. Thanks for showing me just how you did that. As I in Los Angeles I will not need heat it but is good to see how it is done. Thanks

Bob
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76er
post Mar 24 2010, 02:30 PM
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Bruce I would be interested in seeing some pics. Kq6dxn has a nice design. But I would like to take a look at a couple of different set ups and see what might work best for me. I have a 3.3 subie 6 I'm installing and I will need some heat.
Thanks,
Rick
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JJ914GT
post Mar 24 2010, 04:02 PM
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I was looking for a forumpost like this a while ago, so thanks for posting.
I see the 914 also uses a Behr unit. The one I've just fixed in my daily driver, Mercedes w114 coupe, is also a Behr unit.

For the people that want to take this conversion a step further. It looks pretty easy to drop on a more powerfull DC motor. ( Dropped a BMW blowermotor in the Benz).
Why? Because you can ;-)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 24 2010, 05:06 PM
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Just to add in some data, when I had an 86 Ford Bronco II I replaced the heater core in it and it was small and looked like it would fit perfect in this location. I had a similar idea for when I do a 3.0 Suby 6 some day. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 24 2010, 05:11 PM
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Here is a link at NAPA:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.as...6+50028+2028008

Dimensions:
Heater Core Height : 8"
Heater Core Hose Size : 5/8"
Heater Core Length : 6"
Heater Core Width : 2"

They are pretty cheap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Mike Bellis
post Mar 24 2010, 05:59 PM
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The core I used has 3/8 NPT fittings and I'm using 1/2 inch hose barbs. Ideally this would be 5/8 hose barbs. The tranny cooler has more hot water surface area than a standard heater core, I think the 1/2 will give enough hot water. Anything is better than cold air!
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Andyrew
post Mar 24 2010, 07:09 PM
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thats exactly what I was going to do about 5 years ago!! Looks like it will work great!!!
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76er
post Mar 25 2010, 06:13 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 24 2010, 07:11 PM) *

Here is a link at NAPA:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.as...6+50028+2028008

Dimensions:
Heater Core Height : 8"
Heater Core Hose Size : 5/8"
Heater Core Length : 6"
Heater Core Width : 2"

They are pretty cheap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Two of my favorites Dr. E
Pretty and cheap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Cheapsnake
post Mar 26 2010, 07:08 AM
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Nice work. I just wish I had seen this (thought about it) a year ago before I fabbed a heater to fit in the front trunk. It's ducted out through the fenders to the cabin. It'll probably work once I get the car finished but it was an absolute fabrication/installation nightmare. This is the way to go.

Tom
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andys
post Mar 26 2010, 09:38 AM
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Mike,

Can you be more specific on the year/application of that late Ford truck trans cooler? It looks like the best fit I've seen so far. Also, what are the fittings, O-ring, NPT, flare?

As for heater cores, I scoured the parts books and really didn't find an optimal fit. It's the core thickness as I recall being the biggest issue. I never considered looking at oil coolers at the time, but that's a great idea.

Thanks,

Andys
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computers4kids
post Mar 26 2010, 09:57 AM
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Mike,
How does this NAPA part compare to the Ford part you used. Now that you've done the fab work, would you have done it differently?

How thick is that Ford core?
Thanks,Mark


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Mike Bellis
post Mar 26 2010, 04:23 PM
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QUOTE(andys @ Mar 26 2010, 08:38 AM) *

Mike,

Can you be more specific on the year/application of that late Ford truck trans cooler? It looks like the best fit I've seen so far. Also, what are the fittings, O-ring, NPT, flare?

As for heater cores, I scoured the parts books and really didn't find an optimal fit. It's the core thickness as I recall being the biggest issue. I never considered looking at oil coolers at the time, but that's a great idea.

Thanks,

Andys


The Ford was a 1990's F-150. This cooler uses 3/8 NPT fittings. I did see some that use 1/4 flair fittings. This cooler is about 1 inch thick.
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Mike Bellis
post Mar 26 2010, 04:35 PM
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QUOTE(computers4kids @ Mar 26 2010, 08:57 AM) *

Mike,
How does this NAPA part compare to the Ford part you used. Now that you've done the fab work, would you have done it differently?

How thick is that Ford core?
Thanks,Mark


I think this one is too thick. You would need to remove all of the rain shield to get it to fit. The plumbing looks like it might be a problem too. The one I have is 10x6x1 and almost fits perfectly. The plumbing is easy and right between the air box and gas tank. The design of the core I have is a "cross flow" and made for maximum oil cooling. I think it will conduct heat really well. I paid $25 at the junk yard and it is is perfect condition. I had to run some carb cleaner through it to get all the tranny fluid out. I flushed it with water and it looks brand new.
If you want to make a new plenum from fiberglass, a bigger core can fit but it would be much more fab work. I spent 2 hours making this and 24 hours waiting for the mastic to cure to seal the housing. I just ordered some high performance, insulated heater hose in bulk. I'm thinking of running it in the factory heater tube in the long. I'm going to install some new aluminum flex hose to insulate it further where it comes up through the floor. I think this will seal excess heat out of the cabin.
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strawman
post Mar 26 2010, 10:32 PM
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QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Mar 26 2010, 03:35 PM) *


I think this one is too thick. You would need to remove all of the rain shield to get it to fit. The plumbing looks like it might be a problem too. The one I have is 10x6x1 and almost fits perfectly. The plumbing is easy and right between the air box and gas tank. The design of the core I have is a "cross flow" and made for maximum oil cooling. I think it will conduct heat really well. I paid $25 at the junk yard and it is is perfect condition. I had to run some carb cleaner through it to get all the tranny fluid out. I flushed it with water and it looks brand new.
If you want to make a new plenum from fiberglass, a bigger core can fit but it would be much more fab work. I spent 2 hours making this and 24 hours waiting for the mastic to cure to seal the housing. I just ordered some high performance, insulated heater hose in bulk. I'm thinking of running it in the factory heater tube in the long. I'm going to install some new aluminum flex hose to insulate it further where it comes up through the floor. I think this will seal excess heat out of the cabin.


Hi Mike --

Great post! I am just now trying to figure out the heating system for my Suby conversion, so the timing is perfect.

Why run the hoses through the heater tubes? Why not just tap into the "in" side of the radiator hose?

Geoff
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