Cable shift Options

[spare time toys]

I saw this one guy has made up a way to cable shift a tail shifter. Has any one made one for the side shifter? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I want to slide the driving position over to the center of the car for better weight positioning. This is a track car only (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge24.gif) I only need the hump for the shifter stuff but if I swap to a cable shift I could remove the hump and slide the seat over. I would go Hyd clutch and redo gas cable.

[mike_the_man]

Here's a link that I have. You may have already seen this one, but it looks to me like it's on a side shift transmission. It's not the most beautiful thing, but it works. When I put a V8 in, I'm going to da a cable shift.

Cable shifter

[mike_the_man]

Scratch that. Now that I look a little closer, it's a tail shifter. Shouldn't be too hard to do the same thing on a side shift, though. If you try it, take lots of pictures and tell us how it goes.

[Mueller]

try doing a search here, I'm pretty sure someone posted a link to a company selling what they claim is a bolt-on kit.....it's in the $600 or $800 range.....I know I've seen the ad in print, just not too sure where.

[andys]

I've used push-pull cables for a number of different applications. If you look at the pictures on that site, you'll notice there's a mis-aligned cable for the gate control at the shift lever mechanism. Mis-alignment can lead to pre-mature wear and failure. It is best to line-up normal to the direction of motion. When dealing with non-linear motion, it is preferable to make a swivelling bulkhead mount, but not imperative, depending on the amount of angular change. The gray cable is from CableCraft (Tuthill Corp.). I've found them to be more durable than the expensive Morse brand, and are far more flexible making them easier to route. FWIW.

Here's the simplest cable shifter lever mechanism I've seen so far, that translates all the nessecary motions. Would be easy to duplicate. http://www.pbseng.com/Cableshifter.html

Andy

[spare time toys]

The guy next door asked me if this would be legal. I guess I should look into that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) I would hate doing a bunch of work and not be able to run the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Does any one know if this is OK off the top of their head?

[Mueller]

RTRB....read the rule book (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

not sure what class or organization you want to run in....If PCA or SCCA, I'm sure the only classes that would allow such a modification would also be a class that most people spend $25K on thier motors alone (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[brant]

Also, that hump is structurall... so you may want to have a full tube frame in there before you cut that away...

what sanctioning body do you want to run with...
you'll find that most different groups don't allow too much in a stock class......

b

[airsix]

I would love a center-seater. Not just for the weight distribution, but I think the driving experience would be better - easier to feel what's happening with weight transfer, etc.

Regarding the shifter... Why not move the shifter over to the left of center? I would think you could just move the shifter over to the left of the driver and the shift rod would ~almost~ have a straight shot back to the side of the tranny. If you're concerned about having to shift with your left hand it's only because you aren't left-handed like me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Regarding the structural issues of removing the tunnel: If this isn't a tube-reinforced car you could replace the existing tunnel with one on each side of the driver maybe. You'll just have to figure out how to make them strong and also light.

-Ben M.

[Pnambic]

HAHA There's a theft deterent. Relocate the shifter to the left of the driver's seat!

I actually drove a rental in Grand Cayman that was a stick and a right-hand-driver. It was actually easier to get used to than I thought it would be.

[lapuwali]

Shoot, I drive a RHD car nearly every day (in the US!). Jumping between it, my 914, and my wife's Soob, I never know where any of the controls are supposed to be. At least the parking brake on the Mini and the 914 are in the same place (left hand). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[spare time toys]

Its the car in the avatar thats not the roof it is a full caged car already. I guess Ill do some rule book reading The left hand shift sounds like a good idea also,I never thought of that. I just dont want a car like every one else has.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[brant]

I can't make out the cage very well in the picture..
but I don't mean a fully caged car.. I meant a fully tube framed car......

If your going to cut out that center tunnel, then I would recommend a fully tube framed car... (not just a cage)... the tube framing would replace the structural rigidity of the center tunnel....

It all depends upon where you want to run the car. Historics? Vintage? SCCA? PCA club racing? POC? everybody has different rules and there are a lot of things that are not legal in those clubs.. For example, my vintage organization out here will not allow a roll cage to connect to any suspension points... and you had just not even think of a fully tube framed car!!!

Its all about the rules..
where do you want to run it, I'm curious?

brant

[airsix]

I don't think "full tube-frame" is necessary. I think it would be trivial to create new pan reinforcement to replace the tunnel and still accomodated the center seat. How about and 'X' brace running to each corner of the pan/longs with the intersection of the 'X' just in front of the seat (if there's room). Or two tunnels running either side of the seat. There are lots of things you can do. I saw an outlaw 356 that had a non-original pan reinforced with rollbar tubing. It looked to be very strong and light.

-Ben M.

[brant]

Ben,

on some level I agree with you.... but for most production classes if you modify the chassis that much your going to be bumped into full GT tube frame type classes....

which is back to mike muellers earlier comment...
If your going to run in a full GT type class then your competitors will have a full tube frame, and a $10,000+ motor, and you will not be competetive unless you also are addressing structural rigidity, weight and horse power in your design.....

Where are you guys going to run the yellow car when its finished.... I'd figure that out and read their rules 20 times.. I'm curious, though... where is it going to run?

brant

[spare time toys]

Its not just a cage it ties into the suspension and is crossbraced ect more of a tube frame. Just no petty bar. A good friend races in the Porsche owners club Maverics division and I would probably run with them. Im having him get me the number to the tech guy so I know just what i can get away with. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif)

[brant]

sounds like your on the right track...

so yes you could probably take out the center tunnel.... and do a center seater..

its been done so its definitely doable....
there is a PCA 914 running with a center seater... I'm not sure of his name, (only met him once)....

The stock structure is pretty strong for its light-ish weight..... I'd be careful not to add more weight than stock.

sounds like it would be pretty cool though...

I'm not as good with POC, but other people around here are... Chris C. for one.. I've found that I have to re-read the rules book over and over to really even formulate my ideas and questions....

brant