Butterfly valves are rusted shut, any suggestions on getting them to move?, Solex 40 Pii-4's Options

[Steve73]

Hi,

I have a new car that I'm working on that hasn't been run in at least 3 years (maybe not since '86) It's in pretty good shape but one of the carbs had water enter into the throttle body and sit on top of the carb causing rust. Now it is rock solid and won't move. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) What should I use to brake up the rust? something like CLR?

Not many cars in here using the 40 Pii-4's, why is that? I have searched on here for info on them without comming up with much. Most of my info has been comming from 356 sites.

[euro911]

A lot of folks say Solexes are finicky, but if dialed-in correctly, are great carbs. That's what I've always used on 356/912 motors.

I have a set of Weber IDFs in the same condition as yours (possibly worse). I've tried WD-40, PB blaster, carb cleaner and a U/S tank, all with negative results.

Diesel fuel has been suggested as a good penetrating fluid, but I'm going to try some Berryman's carb dip next, since I already have a big can of it around here somewhere.

[Steve73]

Diesel fuel has been suggested as a good penetrating fluid, but I'm going to try some Berryman's carb dip next, since I already have a big can of it around here somewhere.

I'm gonna try the CLR. My friend saved the heater core on his Audi with it so I'm expecting good results. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[GeorgeRud]

I've had good luck with Kroil. Just apply it and let it sit and soak in for a few days. Judicious use of heat from a heat gun may also be your friend if the Kroil doesn't free things up.

[Mark Henry]

Diesel fuel has been suggested as a good penetrating fluid, ....

Soak them in the diesel for a week, I've seen sitting for decades, seized tractors start up after soaking for several days.

[mr914]

I had a similar problem with Tripple Webers.

Soaked them with PB Blaster for a few days by keeping them moist


Used a heat gun to get the carbs warm 130-150 ish. Tapped the end of the shafts with a soft (wood,plastic) mallet a couple of times.

Worked for me, may work for you

If the abover did not work for me, I would have gone the deisel apporach.

[rwilner]

Soak them in diet coke. The phosphoric acid will do the job. Don't use regular coke -- the sugar could gum things up.

[underthetire]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Diet coke in a ultrasonic cleaner is scary good.

[euro911]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Hmmm ...

I've used regular (non-diet) COKE® for cleaning up oil and rust stains on concrete

[Steve73]

Soak them in diet coke. The phosphoric acid will do the job. Don't use regular coke -- the sugar could gum things up.

Hum Good Idea! I've tried carb cleaner, wd-40, CLR with good cleaning but no budging of the valves (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Diet coke, torch and desel are next in no particular order.

If nothing works I'm considering drilling through the butterflies and cutting them out so I can at least get to the shaft and make it turn. then clean everything and put in a new butterfly.

Thanks for all the advice so far.

[Steve73]

Hi,

Did you ever get this resolved? If you did what worked? Did you try the diet coke? did any of these things affect the finish of your carb?


Thanks in advance,

Success!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/Jumpy.gif)


I did several things! I used carb cleaner with some effect. I soaked it in CLR with some effect. I soaked it in Diet Coke for about 3 days, changing out the soda every day. That helped remove a lot of rust but it still didn't clear it all out. I then just coated everything in PB Blasters PB 50 (much like WD-40). That didn't get it to move ether, but it helped. The PB 50 did help with my final process. I took my butane torch, much like what one would use for copper plumbing projects and heated the areas around the rusted over areas, I then tapped those areas and the shaft with my small rubber mallet. Presto! It started to move and I was able to get the screws out of the throttle body with a impact hammer though I think I bent the shaft some with it on one side. I stopped working on the carbs after I realized the engine for it was seized (due to water intrusion which caused the seized carb as well). I have working carbs with another 2.0L engine that I'm gonna use so I've mothballed the carb project till I get the engine swapped and then I'll go back to restoring them and probably sell them off. I think i need a new shaft which I may buy at 356 Carburetor Rescue.

Nothing damaged the finish, I polished the brass screws with a fine wire wheel brush and rubbed a lot of the stuff with 0000 steel wool dipped in more PB50.

I can show you pictures If you would like too. It look pretty, just need to be put back together.

http://www.356carburetorrescue.com/

Thanks for asking I"m gonna put this in the forum too.

Stephen

[914_teener]

Hi,

Did you ever get this resolved? If you did what worked? Did you try the diet coke? did any of these things affect the finish of your carb?


Thanks in advance,

Success!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/Jumpy.gif)


I did several things! I used carb cleaner with some effect. I soaked it in CLR with some effect. I soaked it in Diet Coke for about 3 days, changing out the soda every day. That helped remove a lot of rust but it still didn't clear it all out. I then just coated everything in PB Blasters PB 50 (much like WD-40). That didn't get it to move ether, but it helped. The PB 50 did help with my final process. I took my butane torch, much like what one would use for copper plumbing projects and heated the areas around the rusted over areas, I then tapped those areas and the shaft with my small rubber mallet. Presto! It started to move and I was able to get the screws out of the throttle body with a impact hammer though I think I bent the shaft some with it on one side. I stopped working on the carbs after I realized the engine for it was seized (due to water intrusion which caused the seized carb as well). I have working carbs with another 2.0L engine that I'm gonna use so I've mothballed the carb project till I get the engine swapped and then I'll go back to restoring them and probably sell them off. I think i need a new shaft which I may buy at 356 Carburetor Rescue.

Nothing damaged the finish, I polished the brass screws with a fine wire wheel brush and rubbed a lot of the stuff with 0000 steel wool dipped in more PB50.

I can show you pictures If you would like too. It look pretty, just need to be put back together.

http://www.356carburetorrescue.com/

Thanks for asking I"m gonna put this in the forum too.

Stephen

To think.....people actually drink that stuff! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)